[327NUT]

This is basically a question for Deuce or Vince or anyone that has had the "PLEASURE" of fitting new running boards and fenders on a '32/34 Ford. As I said before I'm building a '32 Victoria....Downs body, TCI IFS chassis and a complete set of Brookville running boards and fenders. I know this is a pain in the a-- procedure and very time consuming but I have plenty of that. Just looking for some idea's and maybe some pics (Deuce??)

I've had this set for a few years while I built the engine and got the chassis finished. Now I find that the front fenders were NOT built by Brookville because they are now boasting "All New built by Brookville" front fenders. I'm thinking of calling Brookville and see if they would take them back and get a set of the new ones........yea I know, good luck!!

Years and years ago I helped a friend....for a couple of days set up his '32 but he was using glass fenders so he just ground the crap out of them until it kind of fit. He was such a butcher and mickey moused everything that I just couldn't take it anymore and left him on his own.

Back to mine.....for a trial fit (just to see) w/o the body on the chassis I installed the running boards. They bolted up to the chassis w/o a problem, just had to elongate a couple of holes. I then loosely bolted the frt. fender braces on and laid one of the frt. fenders in place by "trying" to clamp it to the running board and letting it rest on the brace.......not even close!

So what do you guys suggest, I know I have to put the body on and shim it to really fit the fenders, do you start from the rear and work forward or whats your procedure?..... thanks, Dave

[Deuce]

I wish you a LOT of luck.
I have a friend who bought the Brookville fenders and they were off ( on his car ) a good bit. I have found that most aftermarket frames are too narrow ... by at least 1/2 of a inch. I believe that they are purposely made that way ... so that most any body ( reproduction or original ) will set down on them and slide down over the rails. Factor in using their fender mounting holes, fender brace holes ... and a fender from another manufacturer ... It is a recipe for DISASTROUS fit.



TCI stuff is usually pretty nice but they are narrow also. I NEVER paint the chassis ... under I have trial fit the body and fenders.

Even with a original frame, carefully built to the EXACT measures on the FOMOCO original blueprints, fitting original fenders to the chassis ... is a on/off ... on again experience. I have quite a few original 32 fenders to choose from ...



This is just the stack of Ford original 32 right side fronts ...
The left side stack is even higher ... and this is after installing the fenders on my 32 3W ... and having a good fitting set on the 32 roadster.

On my friends car, we ended up cutting the fenders and installing metal pieces in the fenders.

First the fender braces were heated and trimmed, to get the fender bolted down ( with the headlight bar installed ) We clamped the rear of the fender to the running board ... in the correct position ... and added metal where it was needed ... so the fender would touch the frame. After considerable trial and fit ... and mig welding the pieces ... then we had to make the fenders NICE ... top side and from under side ... because he was going to paint the 32 a very, very dark metallic green ( off a Ford Explorer ).

Because you have a Downs fiberglass body ... I suggest you sell your repro metal fenders and buy a set of fiberglass fenders also. Does Downs still sell bodies and fenders. I heard they were sold some time back ??

Fiberglass fenders, as a general rule, are easier to modify for most folks.
I have a friend who bought a set of Wescott fenders to go on his Wescott 32 3W ... and they were NICE. Almost no fitting at all ... ( but he was using a original ... never took apart 32 Ford frame also.



I am not totally satisfied with the fenders on my 3W ... but still gave up ... for now. I bought two pair of fronts and one set of rears ... the other day. When cooler weather comes and the rod run season is over ( Thanksgiving or so ) ... I intend to fit another set of fronts on my coupe ... but the rears I am HAPPY with.

[da34guy]

Dave--- Get the body back on the chassis and start from the rear( to incl the rear frame horn covers) and go forward.
I'm gonna be up yer way next week, maybe I can swing by "Harmoney" and try to set ya straight on this
Don

[327NUT]

Thanks Deuce for the info, I knew it was going to be a real b----- fitting these things..........and Don, you know where I live....thanks.

[302 Z28]

What is really fun about fitting these cars is every time you take them apart and try and put them back together they never go back the same way. Also when trial fitting allow a little extra space fro paint thickness. If your planning on removing the body from the frame for painting make sure you have the frame webbing in place when your fitting the fenders. That extra 1/4" thickness will play havoc with putting it back together if it was not there when trial fitting.

Vince

[Irelands child]

Originally Posted by 302 Z28

What is really fun about fitting these cars is every time you take them apart and try and put them back together they never go back the same way. Also when trial fitting allow a little extra space fro paint thickness. If your planning on removing the body from the frame for painting make sure you have the frame webbing in place when your fitting the fenders. That extra 1/4" thickness will play havoc with putting it back together if it was not there when trial fitting.

Vince

Vince - as you probably found out that when you reassembled yours, even with allowing for paint and frame welting it still didn't fit as well. My gut feel, I used some additional "mechanical" aids while in the raw state that I couldn't use after paint. My steel rear fenders actually fit better after paint but the front Wescotts.... and the steel running boards and splash shields even more


Dave W