I've never used the AN8 fittings before. Do you trim away the metal jacket and only insert the rubber hose into the fitting, or do you insert the metal jacket too? Seems to work both ways

The metal jacket has to go into the fitting if the fitting has a ferrule on it (crimp type) or the internally threaded hand assembled type

Since this is your first time playing with steel braid and AN fittings, just be very patient. It takes a while to develop your own tricks. IT will test your patience and you will get pricked by the steel braid. The most crucial thing is that you have a good clean cut (no fraying). I have been able to accomplish this a couple ways (always wrap the area to be cut tight with tape), a cutoff wheel will work, as well as a SHARP wood chisel (there are several other ways). There are a particular type of wire type cutters that work well I have yet to buy a pair.

I hope that helps some.

Royce

As stated above, wrap the area to be cut with tape and use a cutoff wheel, like a Dremel. I have not had much luck at all with a chisel, even a sharp one. You can buy a cutoff machine at Harbor Freight for about $20 that is perfect for this.

Vince

Tried my air cut off tool.....doesn't seem to get it too smooth. Maybe the wheel is too thick?? I'll try the dremel tomorrow.

Alreadt screwed up about a foot of hose Guess I'll have fun this weekend

I have tried wrapping the hose tightly with several layers of masking tape and then using a new, 32 tooth hacksaw blade to cut through the middle of the tape. It does an okay job-occasionally
I have had to trim a wisp or two with wire cutting pliers.

I have made a couple of ok cuts....just can't seem to get the jacket to go into the fittng smoothly even with the assy lube.

Just a learning thing I suppose. Can't give up just yet.

Others laughed when I commented how I learned to get the braided steel hose into the AN fittings/ends.
I tightly wrap the end of the hose twice with masking tape. I prefer the blue painters tape. The braided hose has to be clean obviously for the tape to adhere. I use a DREMEL cut off wheel to cut the hose. I leave the masking tape in place at the end of the cut. I apply a liberal amount of lube, insert the fitting/end into a vise (with soft aluminum jaws) and twist the hose into the fitting/end. The tape allows the braided hose to slide into the fitting/end and not fray. If any of the tape is still exposed after the hose is bottomed into the fitting/end, it is easily trimmed away.
I went through a lot of wasted -6 hose until I started doing it in this manner and it works for me everytime.

That is what I thought about doing....leaving the tape on....doesn't that give a chance of the fitting not gripping the hose and causing a fuel leak?

I have approx. 25 feet of braided steel -6 AEROQUIP hose used throughout my '57 150 sedan. I used it not only for all fuel lines, but also for brake booster and brake booster reservoir. I've had no leaks yet...not to say that couldn't happen.
The part that is inside the fitting/end will "grip" just as well, maybe better (?), with the additional thickness of the tape around the hose. It's what has worked for me, eliminating the fraying the ends of the hose and wasting material.
I'd also suggest you use an antiseize on the threads of the male to female AN fitting/end. The fittings are aluminum and the proper sealing doesn't require to be gorilla'ed tight, just snug.

I tried leaving about 1/4" of the tape on the braid.....worked like a champ

Pulled on the hose after assembly pretty hard...no slippage Gonna watch the joints pretty close during the cam break in.

I'm glad that worked for you...I've been vindicated and my medications can be reduced...