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Old 01-17-2014, 10:53 PM
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Fixing dented fender on my 36 Chev

I was wondering how I can go about fixing this dent on my front drivers fender (garage door came down on it ). I have yet to use a hammer and dolly (bought a good selection of them, see pic below)
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Old 01-17-2014, 11:16 PM
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You could likely bump a bunch of it up with the large rounded dolly you have. But man, you are asking a lot, there are a million videos on this, asking questions is fine but you should watch a few of them too.

LOL, I went to go find you a video and actually was having kind of a hard time. This one is a good start.




Brian
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Old 01-18-2014, 12:05 AM
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that's a real easy dent to fix being it's in that corner and will be really easily contained. I'd block on it first to find the brows and with a slightly rounded dolly, as Martin mentioned, you can smack it up while blocking the brows. There's a lot techniques. Highs down, lows up. To me, that would be about 30 minutes of metal working and mud, an hour if that if I wanted to get it good enough for primer. I wouldn't concern myself with shrinking disks or getting all crazy with it if you're not accustomed to the work. The location of the dent will aid you in fixing the dent. It's in a forgiving spot.
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Old 01-18-2014, 05:38 AM
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As already stated, that should be a fairly easy fix with a little time and patience being a beginner. That will be a good one to start with and learn how the metal reacts to the hammer and dolly. If you want to get a little knowledge prior to starting on the car, get an old piece of scrap metal (old fender, hood, just a piece of metal around 12" square will work) and put a dent in it. Then take a hammer and dolly and work it out, then dent and repeat. Like anything else, practice will make you better with your technique and ability. You would be amazed at what you can learn fixing scrap pieces in your spare time. They are a good way to learn all aspects of paint and body work without fear of ruining anything.

Kelly
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Old 01-18-2014, 09:08 AM
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I posted that video for added knowledge, I don't mean to imply you do it exactly as it's done on the video. Henry is right on the money, bump it up bring down the crowns and do some filler work is perfectly fine. But if you want to keep going using techniques in that video that dent would be the perfect one to do it on.

Brian
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Old 01-18-2014, 09:24 AM
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That is a great place to start because the curves will work in your favor. Theres actuaaly quite a bit to do on that fender but the bump is easy. It is made of steel, whatever you think you are doing wrong can be fixed, ok?
There is a book called (going from memory) 'Metal Bumping' by Frank Sargent - I may have a word or two wrong in there but it is close enough to google/amazon it. It was written back when your car was new and it is considered the 'bible' for moving metal around.
the best way to learn is to have at it for a while and then read to discover what it is you are doing. Doing it wrong is the cornerstone of knowledge and you have to have that base before you'll ever do it right.
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Old 01-18-2014, 09:39 AM
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Very profound OJH, very profound. That particular repair is sooooo straight forward and doable it's perfect to start learning this stuff. That same dent out in the middle of a door skin would be the difference between open heart surgery and pulling a thorn out of a finger. It's perfect and you just can't screw up, unless you grind thru the metal or something like that. Bump it up, planish the high spots, go to far, bump it back up, bump it up too high, tap it back down, it's all good. The metal is so thick, the curve is already there so you just can't screw it up. Over stretching (and that would be tough to do) is the only thing you would then need to shrink back, still not a big deal.

Yes OJH, very profound, you said it perfectly.

Brian
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Old 01-18-2014, 11:33 AM
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The book is "The Key To Metal Bumping".

Of course it mentions to take out the part of the dent that occurred last, first, and continue that way.

No matter how simple a repair, extreme care should be used not to stretch the metal.
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Old 01-19-2014, 10:30 AM
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yep. working it in reverse order is the difference between using a stud pin and pulling up metal in the lows or using a stud pin and just creating teepees and pulling up just right around the stud. there are some rare exceptions but they all relate to the tension holding it in.
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Old 01-20-2014, 06:40 AM
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The dent is accessable from the back, leave the stud gun in the tool locker. This is the perfect dent to handwork, and can be removed to the point you won't need filler etc, a highbuild primer at the very most. You shouldn't even need that but if learning it can be a safety net.
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Old 01-20-2014, 08:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ojh View Post
The dent is accessable from the back, leave the stud gun in the tool locker. This is the perfect dent to handwork, and can be removed to the point you won't need filler etc, a highbuild primer at the very most. You shouldn't even need that but if learning it can be a safety net.
I'm thinking Henry only brought that up as an example he would never touch THAT dent with a stud gun.

Brian
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Old 01-20-2014, 08:50 AM
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no-no, not with full on backside access. Just using stud guns as an example of what I see, old repairs we all uncover, and a problem in the industry far as I'm concerned.
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Old 01-20-2014, 09:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tech69 View Post
no-no, not with full on backside access. Just using stud guns as an example of what I see, old repairs we all uncover, and a problem in the industry far as I'm concerned.
I apologize, i read that wrong.
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