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Old 03-09-2012, 05:27 PM
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Fixing my first paint job

Hello,

I painted my chevy truck and got heavy orange peel.
Specifically I used Martin Senour Crossfire CC5020 but at 12PSI which is 50% above what the P Sheet recomended for HVLP. I am told I should have used 20-30 PSI. Lesson learned..

Next week I want to fix my mistakes.. Questions and current plan are..

I plan to sand with 600 and a DA very lightly and by hand around the edges, to smooth out. In just a couple areas and one place that is a good square foot, I need more color as the white sealer shows thru, real bad near door handles..

My current plan is to sand smooth, clean with surface cleaner, shoot color in small taped off areas, flash, and shoot clear over whole truck. With the correct PSI this time of course. I am told I wont have a problem with adhesion, as long as I don't go thru clear. But I have read contradictory information. Current clear is hard.. Should I lightly shoot color over the whole truck again? I don't know how to 'blend'.. Any input is greatly appreciated!... Thanks..
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Old 03-10-2012, 08:36 AM
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With that much peel you will probably go through the clear.
I know with House of Kolor it takes a while before you can re base over their clear. Never sprayed what what you shot. Read the spec sheet.

I would wet sand entire car with 600 re base and re clear.

Lungs
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Old 03-10-2012, 04:20 PM
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Ok, I will sand at 600, rebase and clear.. I want a slight more pearl in my base anways..

The following is the Tech Sheet and doesn't mention that I can shoot on Clear as a substrate.. May have to talk to the rep Monday. Hope i don't have to re prime..

( Link ) <- Tech Sheet for Clear

I will be using CR734 65-85F reducer. And will be waiting for base to tack and then shooting clear... Not wet sanding between...

Also, I have read that my last coat of metallic should be somewhat dry to make it look even. The current forecast for the nights of Monday -Wed look like humidity will be in the 90% range... Does that mean I cant shoot? Spring Break..
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Old 03-11-2012, 08:06 AM
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I have used CC5020 with great results.

I used an Iwata lph400 1.3 @ 18 psi at the inlet to the gun.

Spi medium reducer.

Fluid adjustment wide open, fan adjusted on test paper, do not remember the setting.

Lays out great.

The air pressure recommended on the tds is measured at the air cap, and unless you have a special air cap to adjust the gun with forget that number.



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Old 03-12-2012, 09:32 AM
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Yeah, I have read a lot of info on CC5020... Everyone has an opinion. But, for me, my family owns a NAPA, so MS paints are jobber cost for me.. And, I have read enough posts of people saying they like the product to know that my problem will be my inexperience... Maybe this will be a good thing as I will have 2 gallons = 3 gallons RTS minus heavy sanding...

Talked to rep this am.. Shooting clear over clear a week, plus later is no problem. He even stated after wet sanding if I don't go thru, it will have a deep gloss and be better for buffing... We'll see. If I do go thru, hit the spot with color.. And the other edges where my paper obstructed a good color.

Time in the booth is my tough part... I have all week to sand, still shouldn't take that long, and prep. But spraying is in a shop that I have to cover up with plastic and make a booth, after close of business at 7pm.. Meaning I shoot until 3am. How long it took last time.

Do I stay up later and spend the extra $110 for another gallon of bc or maybe half a gallon and cover the clear if I don't go thru? Or go for the really deep clear except the spots on edges? Thats my delima now....

Also, I am using a roughly 7 yr old, yet new out of the box, Mac Econo Koat HVLP with a 1.4 tip.. Its what someone has to lend. These auto hoses are 50 feet, plus the compressor is around the building another 50 feet. But its a giant compressor taller than me, guessing 250 gals.. What I don't understand is, if a regulator at the gun, reads 30 PSI, what does the length of the hose to the compressor matter, as long as there is a large tank? Anyone have an air pressure recomendatoin other than 30 PSI at the regulator on the gun under these conditions with a disposable filter just before it with this gun. Don't have any data on this gun on the internets....

Sorry for long a** post... Thanks and pics to follow for my Indigo Ink Pearl(lexus color) Chevy Truck!

Last edited by ttugates; 03-12-2012 at 09:40 AM.
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Old 04-04-2012, 11:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ttugates
Yeah, I have read a lot of info on CC5020... Everyone has an opinion. But, for me, my family owns a NAPA, so MS paints are jobber cost for me.. And, I have read enough posts of people saying they like the product to know that my problem will be my inexperience... Maybe this will be a good thing as I will have 2 gallons = 3 gallons RTS minus heavy sanding...

Talked to rep this am.. Shooting clear over clear a week, plus later is no problem. He even stated after wet sanding if I don't go thru, it will have a deep gloss and be better for buffing... We'll see. If I do go thru, hit the spot with color.. And the other edges where my paper obstructed a good color.

Time in the booth is my tough part... I have all week to sand, still shouldn't take that long, and prep. But spraying is in a shop that I have to cover up with plastic and make a booth, after close of business at 7pm.. Meaning I shoot until 3am. How long it took last time.

Do I stay up later and spend the extra $110 for another gallon of bc or maybe half a gallon and cover the clear if I don't go thru? Or go for the really deep clear except the spots on edges? Thats my delima now....

Also, I am using a roughly 7 yr old, yet new out of the box, Mac Econo Koat HVLP with a 1.4 tip.. Its what someone has to lend. These auto hoses are 50 feet, plus the compressor is around the building another 50 feet. But its a giant compressor taller than me, guessing 250 gals.. What I don't understand is, if a regulator at the gun, reads 30 PSI, what does the length of the hose to the compressor matter, as long as there is a large tank? Anyone have an air pressure recomendatoin other than 30 PSI at the regulator on the gun under these conditions with a disposable filter just before it with this gun. Don't have any data on this gun on the internets....

Sorry for long a** post... Thanks and pics to follow for my Indigo Ink Pearl(lexus color) Chevy Truck!
how many coats of clear did you put on, if your useing a da i would use a interface pad first of all, and i would use 800 grit. to me the clear looks thin. i ould go over it really quick with 800 at a low speed. then hand scuff with a grey pad thats around a 600 grit, why go backwards, if your clear is thin you will go threw the clear very fast. and the 600 on the hand pad will give really nice adhesion. for your thin color areas that are showing your sealer i would scuff heavy around those areas and clean well and re shoot with color let dry for at least 30 mins, i usauly inspect for other areas wipe down with wax and grees remover and tack cloth in that time you can start to clear.
for the gun adjustments, cant stress this enough test panels test panels test panels. get it right before you hit the project. for what i see on the pics raise your psi at the gun to about 30 psi to 45 psi keep your regulator at the compressor at 120 that way you always have enough air in the line and wont starve the gun from air pressure, and dont be afraid to adjust the flow of the paint for clear you want it to go on wet, if it looks dry slow your speed or adjust flow, and min 3 coats of clear if you plan on buffing or color sanding, personaly id do 4 coats, and dont be afraid to reduce the clear a bit if adjustments dont give you the results you want. play around again test panels. good luck
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