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Old 01-19-2013, 04:03 AM
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fixing new paint job&rubber question

Hey this is something I copied&add too I sent it to my buddy for advice but he's pretty busy so I thought Id cut him some slack....well I painted my truck for the umpteenth time&sure you've probablly read the paint came out but I left some scratches in my bodywork &learned I need more lighting..all noon stuff Im learning&I'll get it well.I tryd my hand&sanding down some of the scratches & bleeding new paint in..worked like a charm.Now... I get the truck all the way out in the sun rinsed off&was gonna go take some pix.I stopd in auto parts store&came out&it looks like somebody opened the door&put a gold baseball sized dent in my truck!Well this is my plan..hit the whole truck lightly with 600 just to not cut through the clear but rough it up.Then to run a light coat over it or two if suggested Then Ill hit it with the clear what do you think.Paints only a week old.Itll be about 3 Weeks till I do this.Ofcourse Ill fix the dent.
If this isn't the correct way to do this please tell me how.Also I have some rubber that I can't seem to get the paint off&its looking kind of dull.Its far from brittle.I'm wondering is there a paint maybe a rattle can sort made for rubber?Also on the truck I only did two coats of clear so when I lay the paint I want to lay more.&on my body panel stand I had laced my buddies bumper cover on it that I painted a month&red paint from june got on it? The paint was on the padding ontop of the stands wth happened?Thanks I have a huge board in my shop I write all of the good tips I get off of here on.

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Old 01-19-2013, 04:43 AM
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Best bet is to fix the dent and just clear the area you fix. Why waste more time and money to re-shoot the whole truck. It's not a good idea to to shoot a basecoat over clear unless you can take the old clear off.
Just fix the dent and re-do that area.
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Old 01-19-2013, 04:48 AM
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Because there's s ton of little scratches I didn't see before under the paint that I didn't see before cause of the bad lighting.They sand out real easy by hand but its gonna need atlest a lite coat for it to look right.
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Old 01-19-2013, 06:46 AM
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Originally Posted by sunsetdart View Post
Best bet is to fix the dent and just clear the area you fix. Why waste more time and money to re-shoot the whole truck. It's not a good idea to to shoot a basecoat over clear unless you can take the old clear off.
Just fix the dent and re-do that area.

I agree that re-doing all that is needed and not the whole truck is right one the money, removing the clear to do it is way wrong. You do NOT in any stretch of the imagination need to "take the old clear off". It is in fact one of the best substrates for your paint there is. Once you cut thru the clear, now THAT is bad and you are opening up a chance for lifting when the solvents from the new paint can get under the clear.

This is especially true with a non catalyzed base. You are REALLY asking for trouble with a non-catalyzed base. With a catalyzed base not nearly as much chance of lifting but it is still there.

Leaving the clear intact, you sand the clear and shoot paint and clear over it with ease.

Brian
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Old 01-19-2013, 06:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cutthroatkid View Post
Hey this is something I copied&add too I sent it to my buddy for advice but he's pretty busy so I thought Id cut him some slack....well I painted my truck for the umpteenth time&sure you've probablly read the paint came out but I left some scratches in my bodywork &learned I need more lighting..all noon stuff Im learning&I'll get it well.I tryd my hand&sanding down some of the scratches & bleeding new paint in..worked like a charm.Now... I get the truck all the way out in the sun rinsed off&was gonna go take some pix.I stopd in auto parts store&came out&it looks like somebody opened the door&put a gold baseball sized dent in my truck!Well this is my plan..hit the whole truck lightly with 600 just to not cut through the clear but rough it up.Then to run a light coat over it or two if suggested Then Ill hit it with the clear what do you think.Paints only a week old.Itll be about 3 Weeks till I do this.Ofcourse Ill fix the dent.
If this isn't the correct way to do this please tell me how.Also I have some rubber that I can't seem to get the paint off&its looking kind of dull.Its far from brittle.I'm wondering is there a paint maybe a rattle can sort made for rubber?Also on the truck I only did two coats of clear so when I lay the paint I want to lay more.&on my body panel stand I had laced my buddies bumper cover on it that I painted a month&red paint from june got on it? The paint was on the padding ontop of the stands wth happened?Thanks I have a huge board in my shop I write all of the good tips I get off of here on.
Two coats of clear is plenty to sand with 600 and paint over as long as you don't get real aggressive on the sanding. The most common error in this case would be the clear not being applied in a perfect two coats over everything. It is VERY common to have thin and thick spots of material when first learning this stuff, laying that perfect coat is a long time coming. So it is very possible you have spots with twice the clear as other areas. Having more clear isn't an issue of course, it's areas that have too little clear that is the worry. So, no worries if you don't sand it down thin, just scuff the clear off nice with the 600 or even go to 800, no need to get that clear thin.

Do you really need to go over the whole thing or are these sand scratches in areas where you could repair JUST those areas and stay away from going over the whole thing?

Brian
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Old 01-19-2013, 12:44 PM
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Thanks Martin..your omen of the people when I post I hope replies.Its not too bad.I guess I can try touching up the nada spots first&if that dosnt work then do the whole thing.
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Old 01-22-2013, 01:10 AM
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Ok so..I know this older fella that builds bikes &he's help me on my old Harley ,well he came over to teach me how to buff clear to a shine.He said what what I have going on is a lot of shrinkage &I could spot repair every single spot but he said he would fix all of the little spots then a coat of paint over the entire vehicle then 3 or more coats of clear.
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Old 01-22-2013, 08:11 AM
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One thing I worry about is if you have a lot of shrinkage, it's often because of a lot of material. So simply applying more isn't a good fix. Not without "opening" that up by sanding it for paint and leaving it breath a while, a few days. Then scuff it down and re-shoot it.

It's so hard to say without being there, the guy may be right on the money and there were just some coarser scratches that were missed and the paint you applied couldn't fill them and it simply needs to be redone. But I have seen guys apply so much material that was full of trapped solvent it needed to be opened up and sat in 100 degree weather for a week before being re-shot as it was still flashing off solvents all that time, it was FULL of solvents.

And applying something "heavy" doesn't necessarily mean too many coats or something like that, applying it with too slow a gun movement, too slow a reducer for the metal temp, too many coats, not enough time between coats, there are lots of ways you can apply it "too heavy".

Just be careful because applying more over something that is full of solvents isn't the way to go.

Brian
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