[eighty-one]

Hello,

I'm shooting Kirker single stage and then clearing over it.

I had some major run problems in my 'base'; the whole car is a mess but I didn't notice as I was spraying the first coat due to poor lighting. So I just went around the car spraying runs all over

Now, when I sprayed my black epoxy I missed my re-coat window, so I had to scuff it up. I went over it with W&G remover to add gloss so I could see where I needed to do body work - and that coat of clear W&G remover really hid the scratches pretty well, even the fat 120 grit scratches. And the epoxy went from the grayish scratched-up color to a black like when I first sprayed it.

Now, the Kirker tech sheet says to sand with 800 grit before clearing if you're going to clear over cured paint. So it seems like if they say that, then that fine of a scratch would disappear under the clear. Is that right?

I hope it is; I don't want to have to keep sanding and trying to shoot a good base coat until I get it right - at the rate my skills are improving it will take me a few years and a few dozen gallons of paint before I get it right and can spray the clear on!

I'm hoping I can just sand out the orange peel and runs, maybe smooth it to 400 or so, then spot-spay the areas where I burn through to primer (or prime and paint where I hit metal if I'm that unlucky), and then sand the whole thing to 600 and then 800 from there, and then spray the clear. Does that sound like it would work?

I'm sure this has to have been asked before, so I'm sorry if I'm asking this for the millionth time, but I couldn't find anything in search (either Hotrodders.com or through Google).

Thanks everyone!

[jcclark]

If you have new single stage paint on it, then it doesn't need primer.
Just sand it with the 800 and repaint.
If you do or have already primed it, then a light guide coat would
allow you to see your run and scratch removal while sanding.
Like a spray can of a light gray primer, (get the "sandable" kind)

Sand the primer with 400 to 600 then paint.
800 is ok, but coarser will level it flatter and faster.

If it's a ss urethane, let it cure for at least 3 hrs before clearing,
overnight is even better.
If it's acrylic enamel-don't bother.