[kenseth17]

On the rear filler panel (learned something, never heard it called a tulip panel before),I found this camaro thread, which I am assuming is the same dang thing your dealing with. I think I get what your saying , you can't get in to spot the flange to the quarter, because the hinge assembly inside the trunk is in the way. The factory most likely applied seam sealer to the outer joint between the tulip panel and quarter before paint, so if you can neatly spot weld the two together, it could then be hidden by the sealer.
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=143471&highlight=trunk+filler+pan el
And I am sure you have done so, but a reminder not to forget test fitting the deck lid and glass before going too far with the welding.

[powerrodsmike]

Thanks Kenseth..the glass fits almost cherry. (the upper corners of the glass are a little low...I'll do the next one better.. )I tacked everthing up and then checked the glass before I started melting stuff together.

I haven't started on the lower panel yet, I'll check the decklid before I weld it in though.

I think I'm just going to tack what I can on the flanges of that lower panel, plug welding by ear, like the guy suggests in the thread you linked to, then braze the seam from the top..

This car is not going to be a restoration, and it was a given that perfection was not part of the deal...I've seen alot of high dollar cars with way worse repairs than this one will wind up being.

Later, mikey

[35prog]

Nice work Mikey, At the risk of being called a butcher, may I suggest use of "metal glue" such as Duramix. it worked well for me. It looks like in the photos that you could get a couple of small clamps in there.

[powerrodsmike]

Originally Posted by 35prog

Nice work Mikey, At the risk of being called a butcher, may I suggest use of "metal glue" such as Duramix. it worked well for me. It looks like in the photos that you could get a couple of small clamps in there.

Thank you..
I have a fairly new partial kit of some kind of SEM panel bonding glue, with the gun and static mixer...I was actually thinking about using it where the panel under the rear window sits on it's support. Not at the drip rail, but the forward end, under where the window sits...The only problem I can see is that whole car is so rusty, that I'd be worried about the bond. If I grind out the pits and stuff at the bondline, there won't be much metal left. Also, I already painted that copperweld paint on everything, and it says you can't apply filler over it, so I figure it won't like glue either...

Brian- I fixed the borrowed shrinker. It was a broken spring in one of the jaws. I need to get me a set of those.

Later, mikey

[35prog]

Mike, I don't want you to think I am trying to pursuade you.. But, this bond will cover the entire surface of the joint and given that it rides between the quarters that are welded the only forces that work that joint will be the trunk hinges. That joint is where this stuff is designed for. I think the fact it covers the whole mating surface would be an advantage if glue is applied to both surfaces it is fully sealed from moisture. Plus the force is shear which is far stronger covering the entire surface than welding at the edge and grinding off flush. I would grind it out, prep the upper and and lower corners at the window and trunk jamb. Glue panel in, then while glue is still wet put a small tack in each corner and use compressed are to blow out any flame that may occur. I do this to insure that heat does not affect the bond as it would if welded after it dries. I have done this several times in the door jamb when doing cab corners. I will glue the jamb the lower and the rear of cab veritcal seam and then weld in the top lap joint in the door jamb before the glue is set. I have even welded the entire top joint with the glue wet. No failures to date. I have done the same on an an outer wheelhouse panel and sail panel when doing a quarter skin. I know the manufacturers of the panel bond would cringe, but if you are splicing panels the glue will work in the lapped joints but not in the splice joints. I had a sort of real life test on this... I glued a bedside on a truck as a collision repair over the wheel opening, it had some rust, not terrible but... The truck got hit again, bad enough to get a side assy the second time and the seam held. I was amazed. I hope this didn't sound like a pitch, but I believe that your application is a perfect one for this product. I sure what ever you choose you will do it well, sure enjoy your posts (loved the shortened truck column).

[buggmann]

hey that was great work
i will have to start some work
like that soon but the work you
did looked damn good i just hope
mine turns out half that good