Fixing a thread - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> General Rodding Tech
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 10-09-2012, 04:42 AM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Iowa
Age: 55
Posts: 358
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Fixing a thread

Installed a new sending unit in the gas tank (stock tank) of my 48 Chevy p/u. When I fill it completely full gas now leaks out from around the sending unit. I noticed one or two of the screws wouldn't tighten all the way down but was hoping there was enough pressure on the others that it would be okay...nope. I have to take the sending unit back out to adjust the arm some and was wondering the best way to be able to secure it so it won't leak. Obviously don't want to be drilling and retapping with fuel around and was hoping someone here knew of quick/easy way of doing this. I appreciate any help. Thanks in advance.

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 10-09-2012, 05:40 AM
poncho62's Avatar
Out of the Loop Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Streetbeasts links
Last journal entry: at car show
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Hanover, Ontario, Canada
Age: 62
Posts: 16,901
Wiki Edits: 5

Thanks: 20
Thanked 273 Times in 219 Posts
I would try some JB weld or similar product on the threads. Let it set before sloshing gas around.
__________________
Ontario Rodders

Budget RVs
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 10-09-2012, 06:42 AM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Iowa
Age: 55
Posts: 358
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Thanks Poncho...I was wondering if using gray automotive silicone around the sending unit before installing it would work?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 10-09-2012, 08:06 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Calgary,Alberta,Canada
Posts: 217
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 9 Times in 8 Posts
silicone will not work for any length of time with fuel.
are the threads buggered in the tank or is it because the screws bottom out in the hole,or do the holes go right through the tank flange? there is a new gasket under the sending unit right? maybe a thicker gasket would help. you will need to use all the screws that the factory put in though. maybe a regular sheet metal screw would get a bite and work, (assuming they were machine screws that were factory). are there broken off screws? do the threads in the holes just need to be cleaned up with a tap? does the new sending unit have the same thickness of flange where the screws go through? if it is thinner then that could be why the screws are bottoming out before they get tight. that would just mean a few washers under the screw heads.
usually when i work on a tank, i take it out of the vehicle for ease of working and inspection. no use fixing a rusty bottomed tank. i usually fill it completely with water, to displace any fuel vapour, and then do whatever work is required. when all done it can easily be pressure tested. I usually drain the water and let it sit for a bit so water droplets have a chance to find their way to the drain, i then plug the outlet line and dump in a gallon or so of varsol, to get rid of remaining water droplets. the tank can be rolled around to ensure the varsol gets everywhere, then stand it up and let it sit for a minute or two, so the contents can settle out (varsol is lighter than water so it floats on top, but needs a minute to settle out) then open the outlet and drain all the varsol/water. allow to sit for a few minutes, then flush with some methyl hydrate to ensure all the water is out. (methyl hydrate is the same as gas line antifreeze, it breaks down the surface tension of a water droplet so it will mix with the fuel so it can make it's way through an orifice-like a jet in a carb. in this circumstance it will mix with the water droplets and help them to find their way out of the tank). i usually install a new fuel filter after a bit of running. that way anything that got loosened up has had a chance to get caught in the old filter.
good luck.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 10-09-2012, 08:18 AM
Trucknut's Avatar
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Albuquerque
Age: 66
Posts: 229
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 76
Thanked 10 Times in 10 Posts
Would a self tapping screw thats a little larger do it?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 10-09-2012, 09:46 AM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Iowa
Age: 55
Posts: 358
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
I think I'm going to try and combine some of your ideas. The silicone I was thinking about trying is the gray auto silicone, I think it will hold up okay. Trucknut I was thinking what you suggested, although I was considering a little bit larger screw, sheet metal screw or self tapping. Thanks to everyone for the ideas....I'll let you know how it turns out.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 10-09-2012, 12:14 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Calgary,Alberta,Canada
Posts: 217
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 9 Times in 8 Posts
i think you will have problems with silcone. it may last a little while, but it isn't made to be in fuel all the time. maybe the gasket eliminator would be a better choice, but not sure if it is made for fuel either. look on the permatex site for more info maybe.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 10-09-2012, 04:34 PM
35WINDOW's Avatar
Member
 

Last journal entry: Dash Mock-up
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: utah
Age: 59
Posts: 1,395
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 7
Thanked 24 Times in 20 Posts
................

Last edited by 35WINDOW; 10-09-2012 at 04:39 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent General Rodding Tech posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
fixing small plastic tabs/ and fixing toyota bumper tech69 Body - Exterior 2 05-11-2011 08:28 AM
Price fixing MARTINSR Off-Topic 4 08-15-2006 11:19 PM
fixing roof mitmaks Body - Exterior 1 08-30-2004 11:26 PM
Fixing Radiator... Mightymouse Hotrodders' Lounge 12 08-30-2004 10:32 PM
Need help fixing a/c smallz Engine 4 06-10-2003 07:50 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:36 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.