Originally Posted by deadbodyman
I got my last air flanger at HF,doggone thing has worked fine at my shop for three years.40.00 those vise grips are awful handy too get both if you can but if I had to choose I'd have to take the air flanger any day its a lot faster and punches holes pretty quick too....I always wanted to try a pair I saw in Eastwoods that has rollers and turns with a ratchet wrench...Of course,I'd hook up my air ratchet to it.Its kinda like a mini bead roller...the depth of the flange on my HF is just right most of the time.but for thicker stuff the bead roller works better.
The truth is a flanged seam is great, and the way to go for ANY seam with someone with less experience and a mig welded seam or a glued seam ...butt welded seams are great on outerskins if you have experience with a tig and metal shaping....Nothing wrong with a flanged seam. doing BOTH and knowing which one is best for a particular application is the BEST.... a flanged seam is a lot stronger though.....with much less chance of warpage...
You don't need a TIG to butt weld sheet metal. Like I mentioned I have been doing it for years with a MIG. .023 wire and a little practice and there you go. Also, with a torch, not a problem, more practice and you MUST have access behind it. By my abosolute favorite is what I call the "Poor mans TIG", a jewelers torch. This little baby is amazing! They are only about $100 and I HIGHLY recommend it to anyone doing resto or fab work, it is really a cool little tool. With the smallest tip you can solder on a printed circuit board!
And if you think that pnumatic hole punch is good, you need a Roper-Whitney (sorry, no HF for me) XX or Jr. I have them both and wouldn't work without them. Notice the depth of the jaw.
The little one I got at a garage sale for about five bucks! But the XX is about $190 and worth every dime.