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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 04-12-2010, 09:55 AM
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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
I got my last air flanger at HF,doggone thing has worked fine at my shop for three years.40.00 those vise grips are awful handy too get both if you can but if I had to choose I'd have to take the air flanger any day its a lot faster and punches holes pretty quick too....I always wanted to try a pair I saw in Eastwoods that has rollers and turns with a ratchet wrench...Of course,I'd hook up my air ratchet to it.Its kinda like a mini bead roller...the depth of the flange on my HF is just right most of the time.but for thicker stuff the bead roller works better.

The truth is a flanged seam is great, and the way to go for ANY seam with someone with less experience and a mig welded seam or a glued seam ...butt welded seams are great on outerskins if you have experience with a tig and metal shaping....Nothing wrong with a flanged seam. doing BOTH and knowing which one is best for a particular application is the BEST.... a flanged seam is a lot stronger though.....with much less chance of warpage...
You don't need a TIG to butt weld sheet metal. Like I mentioned I have been doing it for years with a MIG. .023 wire and a little practice and there you go. Also, with a torch, not a problem, more practice and you MUST have access behind it. By my abosolute favorite is what I call the "Poor mans TIG", a jewelers torch. This little baby is amazing! They are only about $100 and I HIGHLY recommend it to anyone doing resto or fab work, it is really a cool little tool. With the smallest tip you can solder on a printed circuit board!



And if you think that pnumatic hole punch is good, you need a Roper-Whitney (sorry, no HF for me) XX or Jr. I have them both and wouldn't work without them. Notice the depth of the jaw.





The little one I got at a garage sale for about five bucks! But the XX is about $190 and worth every dime.

Brian
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Old 04-12-2010, 05:15 PM
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This is the one I've got
http://cgi.ebay.com/H-D-3-16-PUNCH-A...item4ceea413c0
Supposedly it only makes 1/16 deep flange. Like I've said, its not deep enough at all
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Old 04-14-2010, 05:20 AM
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I've had the whitney punch for twenty years, and the great thing about it is all the differnt dies for hole size options.
its great for a few holes but its heavy and if you need a few hundred holes punched (like for installing a 1/4 panel) it'll take all day and wear your hand out .. but it only does holes and the vice grip flanger only does flanges.the both together will be sloooow and cost well over 100.00 they ARE handy to have, but only pulled out on occation .
the eastwood and HF air flanger are identical and do both (holes and flanges)so for a beginer thats the one I'd recomend owning first.
For my help I always start them out with that whitney for a half hour or so ...just so they know hard it COULD be and they appreciate the air flanger that much more.
if I was just starting out, and could only afford to buy one tool it would no doubt be the HF punch/flanger
I love mine ....one of the most used tools at the shop ....next to a DA sander
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Old 04-15-2010, 08:15 AM
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A lap welded panel is only good for one thing ... MORE RUST anytime you put two peices of metal on top of one another they are gonna have rust form between em. humidity and other moister WILL find its way between the panels. This is not a problem with butt welding.
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Old 04-15-2010, 08:41 AM
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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Rockford
A lap welded panel is only good for one thing ... MORE RUST anytime you put two peices of metal on top of one another they are gonna have rust form between em. humidity and other moister WILL find its way between the panels. This is not a problem with butt welding.
I am with you, IF it isn't sealed off. But again, the one thing that comes back to me when ever I hear the argument is that the ENTIRE car is held together with lap, flange and pinch welds all trapping metal!

If done properly it isn't any worse than the rest of the car as it was build at the factory.

Brian
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Old 04-15-2010, 10:10 AM
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Mit mak ,Thats the one I'm talking about theres another one with a pistol grip that gets into a tighter spot

I always epoxy prime the the lap and the mating surface before welding (no rust problems) punch holes in the patch ...hold the patch in place with drillscrews and with a drill bit of the same size, drillthrough the punched holes to get the primer off where your going to weld... like brian said, there are no butt welds on any cars made ,they are always lapped...Butts are strickly for cosmetic purposes and should only be done when you can get at the back side of a repair to hammer and dolly it back out after it warps. not to mention the burn throughs a newbie will get trying to butt weld I always teach my new guys to flange first ,when they get that right they are ready to try butt welding most give up and flange...the best example I can think of is a sub frame,no builder will butt weld them on...
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