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Old 03-08-2013, 05:16 PM
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Flaring brake line problems

Bought this %%$^# fancy Mastercool flaring tool. Cut up about three feet of %$&^% line trying to make a perfect @#$%^^$ flare....AIN't gonna happen.
Back on it tomorrow!!

Thanks for listening,


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Old 03-08-2013, 07:09 PM
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perfect only works with oem tooling.
even with a snapon hydraulic flare tool a double flare can be a challenge.
as long as you did a double flare and the seat looks good, that what counts.
steel is easy, ss can be a bear.
i did all ss lines
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Old 03-08-2013, 07:46 PM
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These guys Federal Hill Trading Company are the experts on brake line.
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Old 03-08-2013, 08:13 PM
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Assuming you are double flaring mild steel tubing. Preparation is key. I had my best luck cutting the tubing with a dremel tool w/cutoff wheel, followed by a fine file to make sure it was even and square. Used the file to bevel the outside edge, and a countersink bit (by hand) to de-burr the inside edge. Make sure the tubing extends the right amount through the clamp (usually a hair more than the thickness of the side of the 'button'. Clamped it tight as I could, put a drop of oil on the button, then put the button on the tube end to start the first stage of the crimp. I always had to make sure my tool was centered before tightening - there was a little play, and just a little can make the flare crooked. I was also careful not to tighten the second stage to flatten the flare - let the fitting do that last little bit. Practice makes perfect. And always remember to put the nut on first - nothing worse than a perfect flare you can't use. Good luck!
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Old 03-09-2013, 08:36 PM
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Knowing that tool, the problem must be tube preparation, because every one I know that has one do not have problems. If you are using a tube cutter to cut it, stop. A tubing cutter hardens the end of the tube as it cuts it, and puts a giant burr on the inside of the tubing. I cut it with a 3" cutoff wheel, and deburr inside and out. I get a perfect flare just about every time, maybe one in a hundred is bad.

One other thing, if you have an inch designated die in your flare tool, and are using it on metric tubing, or vise versa, it won't work right.
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Old 03-09-2013, 08:52 PM
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As nice as the tool is looks like it would have a stop where the tubing should be in the clamps but you have to just guess at it how far it goes in. I have tried it several different ways. I am using a tube cutter but will try a hacksaw or cut off tool.

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Old 03-10-2013, 09:19 AM
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slight change

Quote:
Originally Posted by sedanbob View Post
Assuming you are double flaring mild steel tubing. Preparation is key. I had my best luck cutting the tubing with a dremel tool w/cutoff wheel, followed by a fine file to make sure it was even and square. Used the file to bevel the outside edge, and a countersink bit (by hand) to de-burr the inside edge. Make sure the tubing extends the right amount through the clamp (usually a hair more than the thickness of the side of the 'button'. Clamped it tight as I could, put a drop of oil on the button, then put the button on the tube end to start the first stage of the crimp. I always had to make sure my tool was centered before tightening - there was a little play, and just a little can make the flare crooked. I was also careful not to tighten the second stage to flatten the flare - let the fitting do that last little bit. Practice makes perfect. And always remember to put the nut on first - nothing worse than a perfect flare you can't use. Good luck!
NOTE: I would use brake fluid rather than oil or cleans the finished piece before installing as oil is not compatible with the seals in the calipers/wheel cylinders
2) most buttons or tools/ have a line on then to show how much line needs to be outside of the clamp
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Old 03-10-2013, 01:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vinniekq2 View Post
NOTE: I would use brake fluid rather than oil or cleans the finished piece before installing as oil is not compatible with the seals in the calipers/wheel cylinders
2) most buttons or tools/ have a line on then to show how much line needs to be outside of the clamp
Very little oil is used, and virtually none of it ends up inside the tube, so the seals should be fine. I usually flush a good bit when bleeding a new system anyhow to insure any debris is removed.

My own flaring tool used the thickness of the side of the button (others may have a line), but I found mine works with better just slightly more than that. I guess I should have said to experiment while practicing to see if slightly more or less yields a better flare.
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Old 03-10-2013, 02:03 PM
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What do you guys think of that green colored napa easy bend tubing? It uses the bubble flare fitting. You can do loops by hand real nice.
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Old 03-10-2013, 04:38 PM
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What do you guys think of that green colored napa easy bend tubing? It uses the bubble flare fitting. You can do loops by hand real nice.
I have some of that green stuff...I really like it!
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Old 03-10-2013, 06:28 PM
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I used the copper-nickle tubing to plumb my T-bucket.It bends very nicely and takes a double flare well. I use a step drill from harbor freight to de-burr and square up the cut end.The bit is the exact size to fit into the tubing.the next size step squares the end. The copper nickle has been discussed here before.It has been used in europe for years.another plus is that it doesn't rust like plain steel line.
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Old 03-10-2013, 06:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by panhead1961 View Post
Bought this %%$^# fancy Mastercool flaring tool. Cut up about three feet of %$&^% line trying to make a perfect @#$%^^$ flare....AIN't gonna happen.
Back on it tomorrow!!

Thanks for listening,

Pan head, there is no need for a perfect flare. A little off center is ok as long as there is a double flare. The wheel cyl / fitting has a brass cone to conform to the flare u make.
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Old 03-12-2013, 05:40 AM
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I buy short pieces of brake line and use couplings.. I never had any luck making my own flares..
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