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Old 12-09-2008, 10:24 AM
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Flash Rust Help!!!!

I have a 71 chevelle. Dark hunter green with white racing stripes. The paint is weathered and several coats thick. I live in Buffalo,NY so it is cold and damp outside all winter(till April). My car is in a garage, not heated. I want to start stripping it and getting it ready for paint come spring. The body has several coats of THICK paint. I plan on following these steps. Say if I were starting on the trunk.
1. Tape off around the trunk gaps.
2. Put a thick layer of aircraft stripper on and use a hard plastic putty knife to remove the peeling paint.
3. After most of the paint is removed with stripper, I plan on using Naval Jelly to get of surface rust and any other body fillers and stuff that may be on there? If that will work.

Now this is where I need help. I want to get a good start on stripping this car down now because I have plenty time and I feel the need to work on my car at all times.hahaha. But if I get it down to bare metal and smooth out all the dimples and dents(which I am sure I will be searching this site for help with that as well). I am worried about flash rusting. I dont have the room to fully prime the car in my garage( two car gargae other half taken up by my truck). But is there something I can seal it with that will help protect it from the harsh conditions here. It can go from 0 degrees outside with 2 feet of snow to 45 and rain in 3 hours and with that kind of moisture rust happens fast. This is my first strip and paint job. My father will help with the paint but I am on my own with the stripping and prep work. Any advice and help would be greatly appreciated. I have searched the forums and have gained so much from this site on this subject.

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Old 12-09-2008, 08:06 PM
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You can brush on epoxy as you go. Use a two part epoxy like Kirker or SPI. You will have to sand it before topcoating it; check recoat and sand times on the p sheet. With the Kirker stuff I use, you have I think 3 days to topcoat it and you have to wait a week to sand it.

I keep the paint and catalyst inside the house until right before painting. If I'm lucky it'll be 45-50 degrees in my shop, way too cold for epoxy to do its thing. I heat the panel up good with a heat gun, quick mix the epoxy (still warm from being inside), brush it on, and put an infared lamp on it after about 10 minutes or so. You have to cycle the lamp (turn it on and off) to keep from cooking the epoxy, so I just keep an eye on it. It is imperative to keep the epoxy above 60 degrees (70 is better) for at least 3-4 hours, and to keep it at least in the 50s if possible for 24 hours or so. I go out the next day and cycle the lamp for a few hours. The epoxy will quit curing if the temp goes below 58 degrees, but will start curing again when it's warmed up. It is still critical to keep it warm for at least a few hours after shooting, though, or else the epoxy may or may not fail. I don't know; I don't intend to try it either.

I did my whole mess of a rear cowl like this on my Lincoln last winter, in Dec, Feb and March- cold months in these parts. I drove it in January like that (brrr! and snowy too), and from April-June until I finally painted it. The epoxy did not fail and sanded nice and flat just fine and dandy.
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Old 12-09-2008, 08:27 PM
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Two important steps: You need to do a water wash after the chemical stipper to nuetralize the remaining residue, and abother water wash after the naval jelly to get the acid gone. Use epoxy primer over that properly sanded and clean metal surface to keep the corrosion from starting again. A quality epoxy primer is the best foundation for a long lasting job.
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Old 12-11-2008, 08:37 PM
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If you absolutely positively can't primer, there's a product called
"Metal Wash" that protects metal from flash rusting.
It's sold by Eastwood.
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Old 12-12-2008, 05:03 PM
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Follow Badbob's advise to the letter. He knows what he is talking about. Also DO NOT apply any protectant to the surface without checking with the paint manufacturer to verify it's compatability.

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