I have a fresh 383 on the stand, with a solid flat tappet comp. cam. I am temped to save my money to convert to a roller cam before I install in the car. But it is tough to wait that long when the motor maybe fine with careful break in. Note, comp replaced my cam, but very reluctantly and would not entertain the idea that the cam lobe failures may have been due to a soft cam or quality control problem. I had heard that they were sourcing cam production to outside vendors at that point & asked about this & it seemed to hit a nerve as the tech line guy (scooter?) denied this. Anyway i saved for nearly 2 years to rebuild (needed a new crank, bought new pistons too) and am ready to install now... if i don't switch to a roller cam.
You have waited for 2 years don't get antsy pants now, No need to hurry it now... I always do the same thing as you, I build a cool motor for 1 or 2 years then at the end when its almost done get in a hurry and start cutting corners..
The roller cam is so much cooler any how, In my opinion don't take any chances even if its 1%. You maybe need to wait an extra 2-3 months to afford the cam you want but I say go for the roller cam.
If I ever had that Problem i woudl go roller. I think comps got away lucky with just replacing your cam. What about all the seals and gaskets that you had to replace, not to mention the labor!
You have the cam, its in the motor all ready to go. Break it in properly and run it, but most of all, don't worry about it! Honestly that's my only concern for you is that you're not worrying about it the whole time you're driving the car! If you think you're going to be bothered by it constantly, then maybe you should go roller. No sence in taking the enjoyment out of your car because of a stupid cam... sort of defeats the purpose of having a weekend car!
Hyd rollers are cool on the street and there are some benefits. The drawback are the weight of the lifters, the RPM limits and the cost.
Since you have a solid cam in the car that tells me you want to spin it a little. I also have a solid flat tappet cam and it survived break in just fine. (not a comp cam though)
Here are a couple of things you can do to help it survive. Don't use the comp cam lube, pre lube the engine, I prefer to use straight 30wt for cam break in, remove the inner valve spring. Follow the break in procedures and you should be fine (2000-2500 for 20-30 minutes) no idling. Once a cam survives break in you should be good to go.
Bull is right - I head that too! That is why I went with a Crane.
I'm not saying don't go Comp - they have some good cams, but they have been outsourcing the machining and quality is hit and miss on their lower end cams...
Not hard to believe when they also grind for Summit and other no name companies looking to same $$ by cutting corners.
A good inexpensive grind I put in my 283 before going to the 350 was a Super Stock Industries cam from PAW - they grind theirselves and are guaranteed. nicely priced and worked until I decided to upgrade to the new engine....
Last november i had a lobe on my cam go flat,i bought another one from summit,and it did the same thing.. The one i took out was a summit cam,but it lasted lasted about 2 years before it went flat.. the new cam only lasted only about 15 minutes, I had 30w oil in, and good breakin lube for the cam.. but still wiped out a lobe.. so i went with a hyd roller cam.. cause i had my doults about the block,thinking maybe the lifter bores was out, so instead of spending all that money on getting the lifter bores straight, and maybe wiping out another cam, i bought a hyd roller cam ,and roller lifters.. One good thing about Roller cams ,you dont have to worrie about breaking them in,or over reving them, But even with that I want over rev mine.
Robbie
I would go hyd. roller. Scooter Brothers is the owner of Comp.
Chris
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