Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88
Put a new Isky or Howards cam and lifters in it.
This time break it in using old stock OEM SBC springs installed
at max installed height (1.75"+ no shims)
Then install the high perf springs.
make sure the spring seat pressure does not exceed 115#
and the open pressure does not exceed 330#
It pays to get the details right.
The moly slip E supplement works great.
Use motor oil that is not off the shelf
passenger car oil.
Many of the "Racing" labeled oils still have a good bit of zinc.
The Comp XE268H-10 cam is probabily the most popular cam they sell.
Most likely producted by an out source company.
As they sell way more of these cams than they can produce in house.
Lots of variables multiplied when a out source supplier is used.
The cam and lifters should be checked for rockwell hardness.
And the unworn lobes checked for proper taper to ensure lifter rotation.
Isky and Howards cams are all produced in house.
This goes a long way to ensuring manufacturing QC.
You need to inspect your lifter bores for edge burs and scratches
anything that would prevent lifter rotation.
Often the bottom of the lifter bores need deburring
from old worn lifter removal.
Call Comp Cams and see what they offer you.
I've had no problems with my comp cams XE284H-10
but it was made in house at Comp.
If you wanted to upgrade to a hyd roller cam
the GM LT-4 HOT CAM
will work very well.