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Old 05-08-2012, 07:51 PM
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Flattened Comp cam, am I SOL?

Hello folks, I return with more information on my fresh 383 that had low idle oil pressure. Turns out, in addition to the trash ruining all the bearings and requiring the crank to be turned, the cam is also flat on two lobes. It's a Comp XE268H, and I have slightly stronger than stock valvesprings (not sure what the pressure is though, any way to find out other than a scale that I don't have?)

Problem is, I bought it through my college about four years ago, but only just got it into a vehicle and running. I followed all the directions explicitly, assembly lube, Comp lifters, correct oil (Rotella T 15W-40) with GM EOS, 2000+ rpm (no tach) for twenty or so minutes.

Think I have a case for a warranty claim through them? I ask before I waste my time and money calling them and sending the cam off for them to verify it is indeed flat.

Anyway, if not, there anything similar or more suitable for my application? (S10 AWD, 383, 700R4 w/2000 stall lockup convertor, 3.42 gears)

Thanks!

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Old 05-08-2012, 08:55 PM
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Some years ago, I bought a very agressive flat tappet drag race cam from Comp. A lobe went bad after about 6 passes. I called them and explained the situation and, as per thier instructions, sent in the cam/lifters. In about a week, they called me and said there was a problem with the cam as there had been other failures and suggested that for my application a solid roller would be a better choice. I agreed and they gave me full credit on my bad cam and a special deal on the new parts. I considered their action more than fair considering the race application and have been a customer ever since.
The moral of the story is; call them and give them the truth and hope they will treat you with the same courtesy.
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Old 05-08-2012, 09:08 PM
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This is beginning to be an all to common story. I have a friend who has lost three cams in the last 2 years. All Comp's. I don't know if they are getting inferior blanks or if it is truly the lack of ZDDP in the oil but nobody can afford to keep trashing engines when they have done everything possible to break it in properly. There is a pretty good argument now days for roller cams.

John L
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Old 05-08-2012, 09:37 PM
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Don't worry, my next engine will most certainly be a roller motor, and I wish like hell I had thought about it when I built this one, oh well. On the upside, now I get to get everything clean and build it and run it all in the same month!
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Old 05-08-2012, 09:41 PM
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I admire your positive attitude. Still don't envy you though.

John L.
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Old 05-08-2012, 09:52 PM
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dont think you have a warranty case since you did not use the whole kit with the recommended springs. I went through 2 cams before I got it to work with the whole kit.
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Old 05-09-2012, 06:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by big_c_snow
Hello folks, I return with more information on my fresh 383 that had low idle oil pressure. Turns out, in addition to the trash ruining all the bearings and requiring the crank to be turned, the cam is also flat on two lobes. It's a Comp XE268H, and I have slightly stronger than stock valvesprings (not sure what the pressure is though, any way to find out other than a scale that I don't have?)

Problem is, I bought it through my college about four years ago, but only just got it into a vehicle and running. I followed all the directions explicitly, assembly lube, Comp lifters, correct oil (Rotella T 15W-40) with GM EOS, 2000+ rpm (no tach) for twenty or so minutes.

Think I have a case for a warranty claim through them? I ask before I waste my time and money calling them and sending the cam off for them to verify it is indeed flat.

Anyway, if not, there anything similar or more suitable for my application? (S10 AWD, 383, 700R4 w/2000 stall lockup convertor, 3.42 gears)

Thanks!
Quote:
correct oil (Rotella T 15W-40)
Rotella-T is a low zinc oil now as it only appox. 870 PPM of zinc

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...35#Post1415835
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Old 05-09-2012, 06:06 AM
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another example of a xtreme cam going flat. Voodoos are the same.

Just use an old school 260H or 268H (high energy compcam) and it will live a long happy life. Maybe not make as much power as the XE at first, but XE's don't make much power with a few flat lobes and chewed up engine bearings.

This is the reason I always recommend starting out with a complete 96 to 2000 350 vortec engine with factory roller cam and vortec heads.

Make sure to check the lifter bore clearance. I had a BBC that ate cams and it was from extra tight lifter bores. Roller lifters require even more clearance than a regular flat tappet lifter. 0.001 to 0.0015" for a flat tappet and 0.0015 to a 0.002" for a roller lifter.
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Old 05-09-2012, 08:45 AM
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As a side note here. Uncle Sam mandated that over the road diesel trucks run catalytic converters a few years ago. Hence, all the diesel oils thought to be high in ZDDP are not anymore. I believe this a very serious issue and think that even people who have flat tappet cams that are broken in need to seriously consider a quality ZDDP additive.

John L
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Old 05-09-2012, 09:00 AM
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If I was comp id say you're sol but offer you a discount on a new cam. Its more than likely not their fault and racing is a hobby where the consumer assumes the risk. Offering a discount would be good customer service though.
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Old 05-09-2012, 09:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by big_c_snow
Hello folks, I return with more information on my fresh 383 that had low idle oil pressure. Turns out, in addition to the trash ruining all the bearings and requiring the crank to be turned, the cam is also flat on two lobes. It's a Comp XE268H, and I have slightly stronger than stock valvesprings (not sure what the pressure is though, any way to find out other than a scale that I don't have?)
!
Plugging the oil fitler bypass and running a good filter would have saved your crank from being turned and debis going through your engine.

S-3 15/40 CENPECO oil has 1582 PPM of zinc.

There 20/50 has 2300 PPM of zinc.
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Old 05-09-2012, 09:22 AM
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Put a new Isky or Howards cam and lifters in it.

Isky 201271281-12

Howards 110041

www.molyslip.com

This time break it in using old stock OEM SBC springs installed
at max installed height (1.75"+ no shims)
Then install the high perf springs.
make sure the spring seat pressure does not exceed 115#
and the open pressure does not exceed 330#
It pays to get the details right.

The moly slip E supplement works great.

Use motor oil that is not off the shelf passenger car oil.

Many of the "Racing" labeled oils still have a good bit of zinc.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 05-09-2012 at 09:30 AM.
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Old 05-09-2012, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88
Put a new Isky or Howards cam and lifters in it.

Isky 201271281-12

Howards 110041

www.molyslip.com

This time break it in using old stock OEM SBC springs installed
at max installed height (1.75"+ no shims)
Then install the high perf springs.
make sure the spring seat pressure does not exceed 115#
and the open pressure does not exceed 330#
It pays to get the details right.

The moly slip E supplement works great.

Use motor oil that is not off the shelf passenger car oil.

Many of the "Racing" labeled oils still have a good bit of zinc.
The Comp XE268H-10 cam is probabily the most popular cam they sell.
Most likely producted by an out source company.
As they sell way more of these cams than they can produce in house.
Lots of variables multiplied when a out source supplier is used.
The cam and lifters should be checked for rockwell hardness.
And the unworn lobes checked for proper taper to ensure lifter rotation.

Isky and Howards cams are all produced in house.
This goes a long way to ensuring manufacturing QC.

You need to inspect your lifter bores for edge burs and scratches
anything that would prevent lifter rotation.
Often the bottom of the lifter bores need deburring
from old worn lifter removal.

Call Comp Cams and see what they offer you.

I've had no problems with my comp cams XE284H-10
but it was made in house at Comp.

If you wanted to upgrade to a hyd roller cam
the GM LT-4 HOT CAM will work very well.
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Old 05-09-2012, 11:28 AM
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The Howards 110041 recommended by F-bird'88 is available in the new Max Certified line by Howards, cam/lifter kits guaranteed for 5 years even if you screw up, something to consider.
Howards MC110041 cam/lifter kit $179.95 at Summit
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Old 05-09-2012, 07:10 PM
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Well, not only did it ruin all my bearings, turns out my crank is not saveable. So, I'm out the cost of a new one of those, plus balancing. Crap.

At least I managed to find a fresh stock 350 for $300. Gonna go ahead and stick that in my truck while I debate whether or not I am suited to building complete performance engines.

Oh, and it occurred to me after the fact to plug the bypass. Next time, if there is one.

Thanks for the info on the oil though, I'll make sure to get a roller cam engine next time.

And Comp offered me a discount on a new cam and lifters, which I probably won't be taking.
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