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Flexible Pipe from Compressor to Solid Pipe?

37K views 24 replies 15 participants last post by  bluesman123 
#1 ·
All,

Now that I have an air compressor I need to plumb some solid metal line (copper of black pipe) in the garage. I see several folks recommending a flexible metal line from the compressor to the start of the metal pipe to isolate the vibration of the compressor from the line? Where do you get this line?

My compressor has a 3/4 inch outlet to which I have attached a 3/4 inch ball valve, and I plan on using 3/4 inch copper pipe so obviously I want a 3/4 inch flexible hose of some kind?

In addition, where do you guys hook up your air regulator - at the tank's ball valve outlet or at the end of the metal lines where the rubber hoses connect?

Thanks,

Chris
 
#2 ·
compressor connection

The point where you want the filter is as close to the end use. If you have a garage where you will do painting at that area is where I would put a filter,if the distance from the compressor to the use point is of distance the copper line will trap condensate or water. A rule of thumb is where ever there is a drop you should put a filter or drier as heat is generated at the compressor and sent out to the use points. Sometimes you will notice when you use air tools they exhaust moisture as you first start,you don't want that if you are painting. As far as flex isolators there are many outfitters you can look one good source is McMaster-Carr.com they have everything you need.
 
#3 ·
Just get you a short hydraulic hose ( 2 to 3 ft.) with NPT fitings of the size you need on the ends. A hydraulic hose is made to withstand 3000 psi so it will hold the air pressure from a compressor. You can get one at Tractor Supply Company or most of your NAPA stores have them also.
 
#4 ·
Henry Highrise said:
Just get you a short hydraulic hose ( 2 to 3 ft.) with NPT fitings of the size you need on the ends. A hydraulic hose is made to withstand 3000 psi so it will hold the air pressure from a compressor. You can get one at Tractor Supply Company or most of your NAPA stores have them also.
The problem I see with hydraulic hose is that it isn't designed to take that kind of heat. Air brake compressors on big trucks use a braided hose of some kind, but I'm not sure of the size (I'm thinking only about 3/8" or 1/2" ID). I had a truck driver stop in that had attempted to use hydraulic hose, but it had burnt off.

Small compressors usually just use a coil of copper hose to allow for vibration and to dissipate heat, but again, we're talking about 1/2" dia.

Someone like Eagle Compressors should be able to recommend & supply the correct part.
 
#6 ·
The flexible hose can be purchased anywhere you can find gas appliances. I've used a 24" flexible metal connection that I purchased at Home Depot from my 80 gallon compressor to 3/4" copper lines for several years now and it works perfectly and has never leaked.
 
#7 ·
flexible pipe to compressor

I have been runnung a hydraulic hose from my compressor tank to my air line pipe, and have not had any problem with it. There should certainly not be enough heat at the air outlet on your tank to harm a hydraulic hose.I have had mine this way for 7or 8 years and have had no failure.
 
#9 ·
Henry Highrise said:
I have ran a hydraulic hose on mine for over 20 years...no problem. It is a 3/4 in. hose, double stainless steel braid.
I'm sorry guys ... I think I have misinterpreted what "cab" had asked in the original post of this thread.

I thought he was talking about installing a hose between the compressor head itself and the INLET to the tank. Temperatures at that point are very hot.

Now I understand that to be a hose from the OUTLET of the tank to the metal pipe used to supply the shop with air. :embarrass

Don
 
#10 ·
Thanks

Thanks all - after trying several local places yesterday (including Home Depot, 2 Napa Stores, etc.) , I ended up ordering a 2 foot section of 3/4" hydraulic hose and some swivel fittings from Northern Tool (ironically not available in the store itself which I also visited) - total cost of about $25 or so. I've also started mapping out my copper pipe layout. As a note to those of you thinking about buying your first compressor - plan on spending some serious extra cash before you can actualy start USING your new compressor - i.e. 230 volt outlet install, piping, connectors, ball valves, filters, regulator, hoses...oh, and you might even want to buy an air tool! ;)

Later,

Chris
 
#11 ·
Flex line

I used plastic line that is used on truck air brake application it is rated at 300 psi uses npt fittings and compression sleeves make sure you get for airline. You can get this stuff at most NAPA or Carquest stores. As far as heat I have used the same line for 14 years. The fittings are more expensive but reusable and they make 3/4" and 7/8". This stuff last for many years on trucks a compressor hookup will be easy.
 
#12 ·
Heres some I just posted on another site

Heres a little more on air lines.

TP tools and equipment is one of the largest companies that I know of in regards to sandblasters etc.

If you go to there web site they have a short article on air lines.

It's under

tips/technical

airline hookups


Minimize moisture in your air lines with metal piping

They mention black pipe, galvanized pipe, plastic pipe and copper pipe, not saying that there the last word on this subject, but running air lines, is a big job, and most of us can't afford elaborate air dryers and all that, but a little research before you put them in, will be well worth the few minutes it takes to check it out.

Condensation in air lines can cause a lot of problems down the road, and paint and primer are not cheap.

Anytime an amateur like myself can eliminate any type of problem with the equipment, then that makes less room for error later.


Were in our garages alone, when were painting we can't just holler at a coworker and say something is wrong with the way this paint is going on, in a large body shop you can probably get answers right away, we have to shut down and get on the computer.

Putting in air lines that will keep the moisture down is not an easy task, but if put in right at the start, it's definitely a time and money saver.


http://www.2manitowoc.com/paintroom.html

Just an old mans two cents.

Rob


__________________
 
#14 ·
Heres some more, I'm copying and pasteing from my old posts, so bare with me, I'm not that good with a computer, I guess you're still reading or have you heard enough, anyway.

One more thing here, you will or should have filters at the end of your hard piping, just before it goes into the rubber air hose.

I would drain them every day, heres why.

The last compressor was three years old, I go to drain the filters, and after I turned the little wing nut, I noticed my fingertips felt slippery, so I shut them off, turn the air pressure back up, get a clean white rag, crack that wing nut open and blow it into the rag, it's a little dark colored, and I put it up to my nose, and I could smell the oil.

I run three sharpe f-88 filters right in a line, I took the filters out, the little white do jobs, the first one is dark brown, second a little brown, and the third was close to white.

I have one more f-88 in the paint roon, that one is pure white, so by draining these every day I saved loading my air lines up with oil.

I changed out the compressor, also look at your instruction manual and see if it mentions a duty cycle on your compressor, if it does, I would adhere to it, ask me how I know this.

I run a large bead blaster, a pressurized and siphon sand blaster, I have fought water problems, until I almost bought an air dryer, I went with about 75 feet of 3/4'' black pipe, my water problems went away without buying an air dryer.

You allready know, by listening to you, that it takes some planning to lay all this stuff out.

Hope some of this helps you or somebody out.

Rob
 
#15 ·
Probably the most important factor in running the main line, with the exception of material they are made of, is to not have any low spots ANYWHERE in the line unless it has a collection drain. If there is any low spot (such as a dip in the line) where water collecting on the pipe walls will drain down and collect in the pipe it self you will have a big problem. Nothing will happen at first but as the water collects it will begin to restrict the air flow at which point the air will pick it up and cause it to be expelled in surges, not just droplets but some times in large amounts depending on the size of the low spot. When this occurs it will last for only a few seconds and then everything will seem normal with no more problems until the water collects to the critical point and then the cycle will start all over again. I have seen this happen several times and it can be a real headache since most of the time it will overwhelm the separator and simply spray water at the worst possible times. :pain:
 
#16 ·
Man I am so glad I saw this post! I just ran a soft copper line from the comp through the shop the where the soft line starts, with a drier/filter just before the reel. Because this was an afterthought I have a big dip in the copper to get around some cabinets. Would it be better to add a drain valve to the dip or re-run the copper through the ceiling to get over the cabinet?

Dave
 
#17 ·
It might be easier to just put a TEE inverted in the lowest point of the dip and then add a "drop", a section of pipe about a foot or so long with a drain valve at the bottom. This will provide a place for the water to collect and be drained without being in the air flow, just be sure and drain it each time you drain the air lines. :)
 
#18 ·
I think you guys are making a bigger problem of this than it deserves. Any good quality 250psi rubber hose rated for water or air service will work. After all, that is all that is used for your air hoses that feed your air tools. Don't need any fancy ends, just cut the hose to length with a utility knife and slip it on properly sized barbed hose fittings w/ hose clamps. Shouldn't cost more than a few bucks and will last a lifetime.
 
#19 ·
Willys 36

You're probably right, but theres a lot of different people on here that like to know the different ways to do things.

I know I overdo things, and it comes from a lack of confidence, probably my two older brothers, I'm trying to work around it.

I'm 64 years old, and I want to learn everything about these cars and how to fix them the.

Maybe you had a dad or brother or good friend that taught you how to do things, or maybe you learned it all by yourself, as for me I am self taught, and these forums are teaching me something every day.

The good part about this thread is all the different ways to run air lines, then a guy can just sort out how he wants to go.

If you could put some pictures on here, we could see how you do it.

Rob

http://webpages.charter.net/2manitowoc

http://www.2manitowoc.com/paintroom.html
 
#20 ·
I suppose one could argue that the air would be a lot hotter that near the compressor and thus the need for something a little more exotic than standard air hose and clamps and I imagine it would look a bit more professional but as Willys said an air hose should work just fine. :)
 
#21 ·
I think you guys are making a bigger problem of this than it deserves. Any good quality 250psi rubber hose rated for water or air service will work. After all, that is all that is used for your air hoses that feed your air tools. Don't need any fancy ends, just cut the hose to length with a utility knife and slip it on properly sized barbed hose fittings w/ hose clamps. Shouldn't cost more than a few bucks and will last a lifetime
I'm with Willys on this. All you need is a short piece of airhose with the proper fittings on the end. That's all I use and have used and it works just fine.

Kevin
 
#22 ·
robs ss said:
Maybe you had a dad or brother or good friend that taught you how to do things, or maybe you learned it all by yourself, as for me I am self taught, and these forums are teaching me something every day.
Me too. :thumbup: And personally I think sometimes it's the best way. Too bad we can't get a diploma for it!

As for what I use, an air hose from the compressor in the shed to the shop workbench with a water trap at the bench.
 
#23 ·
Compressor piping

I have set up the air lines in a couple of factories and have a couple of hints. Pitch the horizontal lines that run around the walls back to the compressor. This way the water can be drained from the tank daily. The tap off for the vertical lines should not be tee'd directly down from the horizontal line but should go up about 3- 4 inches and then down. This way any water in the lines will not go into the drop lines. The bottom of the drop lines should have a shut off valve then (going downward) a tee with the air line couplers and then an additional piece of pipe at least six inches long with a drain value at the bottom. The upper valve lets you shut off that drop. The last piece of pipe collects the condensed water and any debris in the lines and the drain valve lets it out.
 
#24 ·
For the flexible conection from the compressor to the hard line...I always use double stainless braid hydraulic line....the stainless braid protects the rubber inner line and you know if it will withstand 3000psi of hot hydraulic fluid it can handle 150 psi of hot air. :thumbup:
 
#25 ·
Its been 18 months since I last posted in this thread, and I'll tell you what! Having a "significant" air compressor has truly changed my life! Just having a supply that is constant no matter what tool I am running has been worth all the issues with setting it up. Cap, you are right, that the cost of the compressor is just the start; but I don't mind. Now the $$ is spent, the lines are plumbed, I have a decent dryer........

Oh yeah...well, the Nova project? Well.....maybe it will be done soon. :thumbup:

Dave
 
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