[bluesman123]

Man I am so glad I saw this post! I just ran a soft copper line from the comp through the shop the where the soft line starts, with a drier/filter just before the reel. Because this was an afterthought I have a big dip in the copper to get around some cabinets. Would it be better to add a drain valve to the dip or re-run the copper through the ceiling to get over the cabinet?

Dave

[oldred]

It might be easier to just put a TEE inverted in the lowest point of the dip and then add a "drop", a section of pipe about a foot or so long with a drain valve at the bottom. This will provide a place for the water to collect and be drained without being in the air flow, just be sure and drain it each time you drain the air lines.

[willys36@aol.com]

I think you guys are making a bigger problem of this than it deserves. Any good quality 250psi rubber hose rated for water or air service will work. After all, that is all that is used for your air hoses that feed your air tools. Don't need any fancy ends, just cut the hose to length with a utility knife and slip it on properly sized barbed hose fittings w/ hose clamps. Shouldn't cost more than a few bucks and will last a lifetime.

[robs ss]

Willys 36

You're probably right, but theres a lot of different people on here that like to know the different ways to do things.

I know I overdo things, and it comes from a lack of confidence, probably my two older brothers, I'm trying to work around it.

I'm 64 years old, and I want to learn everything about these cars and how to fix them the.

Maybe you had a dad or brother or good friend that taught you how to do things, or maybe you learned it all by yourself, as for me I am self taught, and these forums are teaching me something every day.

The good part about this thread is all the different ways to run air lines, then a guy can just sort out how he wants to go.

If you could put some pictures on here, we could see how you do it.

Rob

http://webpages.charter.net/2manitowoc

http://www.2manitowoc.com/paintroom.html

[oldred]

I suppose one could argue that the air would be a lot hotter that near the compressor and thus the need for something a little more exotic than standard air hose and clamps and I imagine it would look a bit more professional but as Willys said an air hose should work just fine.

[Kevin45]

I think you guys are making a bigger problem of this than it deserves. Any good quality 250psi rubber hose rated for water or air service will work. After all, that is all that is used for your air hoses that feed your air tools. Don't need any fancy ends, just cut the hose to length with a utility knife and slip it on properly sized barbed hose fittings w/ hose clamps. Shouldn't cost more than a few bucks and will last a lifetime

I'm with Willys on this. All you need is a short piece of airhose with the proper fittings on the end. That's all I use and have used and it works just fine.

Kevin

[kringold]

Originally Posted by robs ss

Maybe you had a dad or brother or good friend that taught you how to do things, or maybe you learned it all by yourself, as for me I am self taught, and these forums are teaching me something every day.

Me too. And personally I think sometimes it's the best way. Too bad we can't get a diploma for it!

As for what I use, an air hose from the compressor in the shed to the shop workbench with a water trap at the bench.

[carguy68]

I have set up the air lines in a couple of factories and have a couple of hints. Pitch the horizontal lines that run around the walls back to the compressor. This way the water can be drained from the tank daily. The tap off for the vertical lines should not be tee'd directly down from the horizontal line but should go up about 3- 4 inches and then down. This way any water in the lines will not go into the drop lines. The bottom of the drop lines should have a shut off valve then (going downward) a tee with the air line couplers and then an additional piece of pipe at least six inches long with a drain value at the bottom. The upper valve lets you shut off that drop. The last piece of pipe collects the condensed water and any debris in the lines and the drain valve lets it out.

[Henry Highrise]

For the flexible conection from the compressor to the hard line...I always use double stainless braid hydraulic line....the stainless braid protects the rubber inner line and you know if it will withstand 3000psi of hot hydraulic fluid it can handle 150 psi of hot air.

[bluesman123]

Its been 18 months since I last posted in this thread, and I'll tell you what! Having a "significant" air compressor has truly changed my life! Just having a supply that is constant no matter what tool I am running has been worth all the issues with setting it up. Cap, you are right, that the cost of the compressor is just the start; but I don't mind. Now the $$ is spent, the lines are plumbed, I have a decent dryer........

Oh yeah...well, the Nova project? Well.....maybe it will be done soon.

Dave