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Old 08-29-2005, 03:17 PM
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flip up license plate

I think it would be cool to use something like the drawing on my truck. It would flip the license plate up when driving, but when turned off, the license would drop down behind the bumper and not be at risk of being kicked or ripped off when loading or unloading from the bed of the truck. My question for the site here is whether I could use an actuator or a solenoid from a door lock. Like the ones they sell in the shaved door kits, only I'd probably try and get one from the yards. It would need to continuosly push the license plate into the up position while the vehicle is running. Or I could probably use springs to hold the plate in the up position but then I would need something that would hold the plate in the down position. And it would have to do that while the power was turned off too.
Anyone have any experience trying something like this. I'd rather not get a kit for something that could be so simple. My main concern is whether or not the actuator or solenoid could be used in this method.
Thanks for the help.
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Old 08-29-2005, 04:04 PM
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You'd be easier off just buying one there are companies that make 'em. I'll look around see if I can find it again, but there was a thread about this with links to websites of manufacturers.




Mike
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Old 08-29-2005, 06:05 PM
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I should have put the previous thread in my first post. One of the links in that thread went to this site, and they only want 230 bucks for their kit I have a bit of time to kill till I get the legal stuff sorted out for my truck, and till that time, its stuck in the garage. So I definitely got more time than money right now.
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Old 08-29-2005, 06:23 PM
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I completely agree with you. Why buy it if you can make it? Its just that with my skills I usually end up buying instead of making What kind of truck you got? I got an old '50 Dodge 1/2 ton.







Mike
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Old 08-29-2005, 06:56 PM
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You're going to need a continuos rated solenoid,which I don't think is used for door/trunk lock usage.A possible source would be W.W.Grainger-an industrial supply house.

George
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Old 08-29-2005, 07:45 PM
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I built one using a power window regulator from a Mazda 626 (rear window). It works great. My truck is currently in a friends garage for body and paint work. I'll get a picture of the setup this weekend and post it here.
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Old 08-30-2005, 09:48 PM
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Can't wait to see the pics S10Fan.

Fast Orange, I looked through the Grainger catalog on their site. All the continuous duty solenoid's that I saw on there were 24 VDC, how would those run in a 12 VDC system?

Nightfire, I got 50 chevy 1/2 ton. She's beat to hell worse than a retired hooker. Anyways, I know what you mean about usually buying something, I have lots of failed creations around my garage that were planned to someday be something I ended up getting in a kit.
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Old 08-31-2005, 07:01 AM
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A lot of door solenoids are designed to drive a lock mechanism up and down and when complete there is no stress/weight remaining on the rod.

They have no holding abilities either way. I have seem some worm drive solenoids that would do better but not ideal.

Either way, I think a license plate mounting assembly bouncing around would take its toll on the plunger and the solenoid would not hold up. I think a power window motor or something similar would be a better choice.


Rich
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Old 08-31-2005, 09:28 PM
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Something similar to '65 Buick Riviera Headlight cover motors and linkages. I would imagine that it would be easier to have a motor that you actuate to drive the plate up and down than to use a continuous solenoid. Of course, if you could put it on a timer or similar piece, that would swing it into place when the key is turned on and remains on for a certain amount of time after the key is turned off to actuate the plate into it's "hidden" position. just thinking aloud here...
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Old 09-01-2005, 03:36 AM
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I promise to post pictures this weekend but here's how mine works. I used a power window motor and regulator (LR) from a 96 Mazda 626. A bracket was tack welded to the window track to hold the tag. I then test fitted the assembly with the plate in the down, or tag displayed position. I then made sure there was room for the tag to retract out of sight. After getting everything adjusted I wired the motor (reverse polarity like GM motors) to a GM power window switch. The Mazda switch would work as well. I also needed to make some "stops" and weld those to the track. The stops keep the tag bracket from coming off the track. I used a Mazda regulator because it was available, I'd think most any small car rear window regulator would give the needed travel for this project.

I took my setup a step further, I wired in a DEI529T (Directed Electronics part #529T, Sunroof controller). The 529T displays the tag when the ignition is on, and retracts the tag with the key off. The GM window switch allows me to move the tag at will. Example, you just robbed a bank and are making a get away, move the tag out of sight. LOL. Or, you're parked on the street and need the tag visible. Or, when backing out of my driveway I need the tag "up" so it doesn't drag the ground.

I was really surprised at how easy all this came together. Plus, anything that involves a car, welding, wires, and the "cool" factor must be fun.
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Old 09-03-2005, 06:56 PM
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Here’s a picture.

The bed of my truck is sitting on blocks and moved to the rear (doing body and paint work). The tag is shown in the up position (hidden). You can see a bracket I made to allow me to bolt the tag to the regulator. The regulator is bolted to the rear cross member with a homemade bracket. Another bracket holds the motor in place. A ˝” piece of tubing was cut to provide support from the bottom of the regulator to the cross member. I also made a tag light that mounts behind the roll pan. When the tag is displayed the top edge of the tag is even with the bottom of the roll pan. As you can see the tag is at an angle, but can be clearly viewed.

As I posted earlier, mine works automatically with the ignition switch. I can also operate it via a “reverse polarity” window switch.

The motor and regulator were 14.99 at Pick-A-Part. I already had enough steel scraps to make brackets. This is a really simple cheap alternative to the more elaborate systems.
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Old 09-04-2005, 03:45 AM
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I found another picture. The picture quality is poor (cell phone camera) but with the bed off you can maybe get a better idea. Tag is in the down (displayed) position.

Note: I also built the exhaust system, lots of elbows and a mig welder.
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Old 09-09-2005, 05:55 AM
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S10fan - nice.



-W
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Old 09-09-2005, 05:38 PM
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S10fan, that looks nice. I was really hoping to flip it up, but I'm gonna get the parts to try what you have setup if my new idea doesn't work.
Now for my new idea, fixing the license plate on a hinge, with a prop bar connected to the top of the plate. When the window regulator goes up, it pushes the prop bar up and that flips the plate up. Then when the regulator goes down, it pulls the plate down.
The reason for this change, is cause I'd don't want to have the plate extending below the bumper. If what I said doesn't make sense, I'll draw up a schematic to hopefully present my idea to the masses.
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Old 09-09-2005, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guba_unus
S10fan, that looks nice. I was really hoping to flip it up, but I'm gonna get the parts to try what you have setup if my new idea doesn't work.
Now for my new idea, fixing the license plate on a hinge, with a prop bar connected to the top of the plate. When the window regulator goes up, it pushes the prop bar up and that flips the plate up. Then when the regulator goes down, it pulls the plate down.
The reason for this change, is cause I'd don't want to have the plate extending below the bumper. If what I said doesn't make sense, I'll draw up a schematic to hopefully present my idea to the masses.
Thanks!

I do understand what you are trying to do. With my truck being lowered, a flip down plate wouldn't work. I needed it to be at an angle yet visible.

A friend used a similar regulator and his goes up and down between the cab and bed.

Good Luck with your setup!
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