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Old 06-03-2010, 09:07 AM
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Flo-Tek Heads from speedway

Has anyone here ever used these heads? They seem really cheap for out of the box Aluminum heads.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Flo-Te...ads,25120.html

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Old 06-03-2010, 09:10 AM
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nope never heard of them and for that fact and the fact that they are cheap as dirt would be all i need to know to say i wouldn't use them
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Old 06-03-2010, 09:14 AM
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thats the thing, I am looking for a cheap set of heads, not much of a budget, while on the subject has anyone ever use the Performance Heads, ads in Popular hotrodding and Hotrod?
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Old 06-03-2010, 11:15 AM
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okay you should really start of by telling us what you are doing, what is the engine, what is it going in, what transmission, what rear gears, street car or track car or a little of both, hopeful hp/tq or ET goals.

i do understand being on a budget but just because you're on a budget doesn't mean that you will have to buy garbage, you just need to tell us what you want and some of the parts you have seen and then we can begin to steer you in the right direction.

i certainly wouldn't use these heads, i would never use a set of heads from a manufacturer that i have never heard of, you can find decent performance parts out there for good prices you just need to know who makes them
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Old 06-03-2010, 03:25 PM
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How many times must it be said you get what you pay for. You're on a budget? You should get some Vortec heads, plain and simple. Best bang for the buck there is. Scoggins-Dickey has Vortecs with upgrades springs, gaskets, intake bolts, vortec-style intake manifold for a grand. By the time you pay somebody to dial those heads in, i.e., lap the valves in, check stem to guide clearance, make sure springs are set at correct height, clean up casting flash, check for straightness, mill heads for straightness if problems found, etc. What about the quality of the aluminum? Quality of the the valves and valve springs? The price of those heads is what a good set of valves alone cost!

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Old 06-04-2010, 06:28 AM
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X2, i also like the RHS pro torker vortec heads, they will accept both bolt pattern intakes, and they out flow stock vortecs by a mile
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Old 06-04-2010, 07:11 AM
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Well, i plan on buying a 75 nova or something similar. I have right now a 350 just a rebuilt engine completely stock. I would like to upgrade the heads, intake and carburetor, cam,etc., but stick with the stock rotating assembly for right now. Transmission would probably be a TH350 or maybe eventually a 700R4. for now stock gears, until I can figure something better for a rear end. I really don't have a need for full race stuff, just for now would like it a little warmed over, hoping for 375 to 400hp, is that to much to ask out of the stock rotating assembly?
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Old 06-04-2010, 07:43 AM
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no that's not too much to ask for but it will depend on how well it was rebuilt, do you know anything more about the motor such as what pistons are in it and what kind of crowns they have. i think this motor would likely be perfect for a set of aftermarket vortec heads a simple cam around 214-222 duration @ .050, performer rpm intake, 650 vac sec carb, and 1 5/8 headers. with this you will probably be a little shy of 375hp, i would guestimate around 340-350hp but you would have a ton of tq and tq is what makes a motor fun on the street, and with the type of cam i mentioned you shouldn't need to go over a 2500 stall, and you would be fine with a set of 3.42:1 rear gears
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Old 06-04-2010, 09:25 AM
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Sorry i cant tell you much about it other than it is similar to a jasper motor, but rebuilt by zazlock instead. What would it take to bump up the power to around 400?
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Old 06-04-2010, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justinsch25
Has anyone here ever used these heads? They seem really cheap for out of the box Aluminum heads.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Flo-Te...ads,25120.html
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=443817 .These heads also caught my attention !! I am putting together a spare engine using up all the (wrong) parts i bought before i got " educated" by this forum. Many thanks to all the contributors.
Its going to be a mismatch of parts but i own them, and its goegraphically too far to return them !
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Old 06-04-2010, 02:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justinsch25
Sorry i cant tell you much about it other than it is similar to a jasper motor, but rebuilt by zazlock instead. What would it take to bump up the power to around 400?

well then i would say that your best bet would be to pull the heads off since you know you want to replace them, then measure the displaced cc in the piston crown, find a piece of plexi glass and cut it to fit the top of the piston @ TDC and then drill a hole through the middle of the plexi glass, find a large syringe, one with at least 70-80cc total liquid capacity (this can be used later to measure the cc in the heads if you want) oh you should be able to find a simple syringe at a pet store, walmart or drug store, it doesn't need to have a needle with it. then clean the piston crown up real good and place the plexi glass on top fo the piston, you can fill the syringe with windex (i like it cause it is blue and easy to see) make not of how much liquid is in the syringe, then fill the piston crown up to the plexi glass and take a look at how much liquid is now missing from the syringe, then just do the simple math and you will be pretty close to piston crown cc relief. next you will want to by a set of feeler gauges from any automtive parts store, find a set that will detach from the screw (almost all of them do) and put the piston back up to TDC again and measure the distance from the outer 1/4" of the piston crown to the block surface, i take a steel straight ruler and place it on it's edge toward the top area of the cylinder and then take the feeler gauges and see what the gap is, this will tell you how much your piston is in the hole. you will need to know this to get proper quench (area between the piston @ TDC and the head) this need to be around .039-.046" so say you measure the gap between the piston @ TDC and the block deck and you came out with .015" then your best bet would be to find a head gasket that had a compressed thickness of around .025-.30" to give you the optimal quench. all of this will be very important when it comes to figuring out what cylinder heads you will need to run (combustion chamber volume) and figuring out your compression.

to bump this motor up to 400 hp will take some work, it proabably has nasty 76cc heads on it and about 8.0:1 compression so i would still say that going with a 64-67cc vortec head would ve your best bet to raise compression as well as to get a better set of flowing heads, but the cam it will require with a set of vortecs to make 400hp will be a little on the rough side for everyday street use, not that many haven't made it work, it would likely put you into buying a cam with about 228-232 duaration @ .050 and with a cam like this you would need to do work to the guides and put new springs on any vortec heads you found even the aftermarket ones (more than likely) i think on a budget (which is sounds as if you are) with the current motor you have a much more attanable goal would be 350hp/380tq, and this would still make a very fun street motor.
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Old 06-04-2010, 03:19 PM
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1.21 giga-watts???!!!!
 
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Throw a set of Vortecs on a GM Goodwrench engine, stab a mild Comp Extreme Energy 268 cam in it, top with 750 holley and throw some headers on it and enjoy 400 + HP and around 420 lb ft of torque. Better yet, put a XE 262 cam in it and bump the torque with a bit of sacrifice on h.p. level.

This really isn't rocket science anymore.
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Old 06-04-2010, 03:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cool rockin daddy
Throw a set of Vortecs on a GM Goodwrench engine, stab a mild Comp Extreme Energy 268 cam in it, top with 750 holley and throw some headers on it and enjoy 400 + HP and around 420 lb ft of torque. Better yet, put a XE 262 cam in it and bump the torque with a bit of sacrifice on h.p. level.

This really isn't rocket science anymore.

it's not rocket science but i hate to burst your bubble but the combo you just mentioned would even be close 400hp, maybe 350-360hp and about 380-390lbft, and with the .477" lift on that cam it will be past the stock capabilites of the vortecs, in order to fit this cam you would need a new set of springs and possibly a "getto-grind". and as many have mentioned before, do you research before you go out and buy one of Comps XE cams, you might just think twice about it, personally i wouldn't buy any of comps cams, there are far better and persable cam companies that will make things right if they do wrong by you, un like all i've seen from comp.

but aside from the comp cam this is about the route i would go, and i would try and find a set of vortecs that can handle .500" lift or so, personally i would look into cams from Howards (they are my personaly favorite), bullet cams, isky, or crower

oh and not to mention that a 750 carb is too much for this engine, and the added CFM from the carb wont make any more power it will just make it more of a PINA the tune. a simple 650 vac sec carb will be all this motor would need until it runs over 6000rpm, now a 750 vac sec carb would be okay because a vac sec carb will only let the motor use as much as it needs but i would still recomend against it, a 650 is all you need

Last edited by my87Z; 06-04-2010 at 03:58 PM.
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Old 06-04-2010, 04:52 PM
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1.21 giga-watts???!!!!
 
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Perhaps you should look up the Vortec Chronicles in Chevy High Performance magazine where they did a step by step build up using vortecs. Started wth stock cam, changed it out, recorded results. Did that with manifolds, carbs, rockers, etc. Do a search and find out how easy it is. Oh, by the way, have been running a XE cam for the last five years with no problems. C'mon now! Let's not make this harder than it is.

Link to a 440 hp engine with a XE 274 cam
http://www.compcams.com/community/ar...?ID=1751487810

Heres the link to the 400 hp 420 lb ft goodwrench
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...iii/index.html

Last edited by cool rockin daddy; 06-04-2010 at 05:11 PM.
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Old 06-04-2010, 09:15 PM
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they are assembled by tri state cylinder head and yes they are cast in china
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