Floor Pan Refinishing (LONG)
Hi guys. I'm redoing my 75 Hurst Olds.. Here's what my plan of attack has been
New floor pans.. 3 corners needed it. This was my procedure so far
-Cut out the old pans up to good metal. Scuffed up the new pans and applied weld through zinc coating to the bottom and top side of both pans.
-sanded and chemically removed any surface rust on the floor pans with generic naval jelly (I saw it in a post on here, worked well.. could have sandblasted but I couldn't get the car outside to do it at the time).
- zinc coated say the 2" overlap of the floor remaining in the car.
-welded in panels.. spot welded probably ever 1" 1/2" or so.
- ground down welds so they are flush.
(One could make the statement that I should have flush fit these pans and butt welded them, but I'm not doing a high dollar restoration that I want to sell someday, I can deal with a seam in the floor/not 10% perfect "appearing").
I rezinced (rezinked?) those ground down areas for protection in the garage.
Here's my plan, please tell me if you can see anything wrong.
These floor pans required me to remove the seat braces.. I have those stripped.. I felt that if the braces looked as good as they did with very minor surface rust on the bottom side in spots and the rest bare metal, so I did a combination of Piclex 20 and Zero Rust.
1. I was going to apply a seam sealer over the seams directly under each seat brace.. pre drill my 'spot weld' holes, zinc the area immediately around them, and apply Zero Rust where each seat brace sits on the floor.
2. Weld in braces
3. underneath, I was going to cut out as much of the overlapping floor pan metal that I could to make the overlap that much smaller. Also clean up the overlap about 1" away from the seam by removing undercoating.
4. Either fully weld it, or again just tack it in every 1/2" or so.. grind that down, not sure what I want to do.
5. a coat of Piclex 20 on all bare metal surfaces top side and bottom side.
6. One coat of Zero Rust above and below.
7. Apply seam sealer liberally on top (and on bottom if I do not fully weld the panel in)
8. Apply another coat of Zero Rust.
9. Then what? Epoxy top and bottom? Spray on undercoating/bed liner would do an excellent job of hiding the floor pan replacement on the bottom side?
I guess #9 is what I'm trying to figure out, and if 1 - 8 seems ok. I feel like I'm overthinking this because of the floor pan braces
I am full blown into replacing my floors/braces in my '64 impala convert. I'm planning on epoxying everything prior to welding. Before spraying, I put 1" round label stickers where my spot/plug welds will be.
Then, I shoot the whole works with epoxy, remove the stickers, wipe the spots down then spray the weld-thru coating only where the welds will be. This way, I have maximum epoxy coverage.
|Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos|
|Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)|
|Thread||Thread Starter||Forum||Replies||Last Post|
|Hard piping air lines ... help (LONG)||candygram||Garage - Tools||19||10-18-2005 07:23 PM|
|Is 76" to long for a driveshaft?||STATUTORY GRAPE||Suspension - Brakes - Steering||2||02-02-2005 06:27 AM|
|RAM long clutch in Lakewood bellhousing....HELP!!||70bird||Transmission - Rearend||2||01-13-2005 07:41 PM|
|detonation resistance, short or long rods?||Old School Nut||Engine||34||12-31-2004 01:23 AM|
|How long will lacquer primer last?||ChrisMiddleron||Body - Exterior||2||06-17-2004 06:35 PM|