Floor pans: rivet or weld?? - Page 2 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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View Poll Results: Should I rivet or weld in the floor pan?
Weld it 14 93.33%
Rivet it 1 6.67%
Voters: 15. You may not vote on this poll

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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 02-15-2005, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by BarryK
Duramix, 3M, Fuzor, Norton.

They all have different product to repair plastic to metal and SMC bond. Working times range for 15 seconds to 60 minutes, the slower being for bonding.
It wouldn't happen to be in the same line as jb weld is it?

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 02-15-2005, 07:46 PM
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As usual.....MartinSR has a good idea.Bonding is better than riveting,but in my opp.welding is always the best.Just my opp.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 02-15-2005, 07:54 PM
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No, this stuff is different than the JB weld you mentioned. If you know any of the bodyshops in town stop in and ask one of the techs to show you the stuff. I prefer the Fusor brand but have used 3M and Kent with good success as well. These products are designed for the exact purpose you've inquired about. The kits run on average about $35 and it will come in two tube dispensing deal that requires a specific caulking type gun to apply. here's a link to help explain- Fusor
Lifetime warantee

Maybe a shop will borrow you the gun for a weekend. Bob
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 02-15-2005, 08:02 PM
adtkart@aol.com
 
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If you don't have easy access to welding, I wouldn't even hesitate to use one of the adhesives. We use them regularly for replacing quarterpanels, van side panels and such. It will be a permanant repair and as pointed out, will also seal out the moisture. Riviting it will be temporary at best. They will work loose with time and vibration.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 02-18-2005, 05:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adtkart
If you don't have easy access to welding, I wouldn't even hesitate to use one of the adhesives. We use them regularly for replacing quarterpanels, van side panels and such. It will be a permanant repair and as pointed out, will also seal out the moisture. Riviting it will be temporary at best. They will work loose with time and vibration.
We have used the adhesives at work on some prototypes and we use a very similar adhesive from Dow to glue in glass. You have to follow the instructions to the letter but if you do it is as strong as any weld. If you need to remove it after it has cured and the application was done properly don't think you're going to cut it off with a hammer and chisel! I did a test panel using the glass adhesive and glued a painted panel to a piece of unpainted galvanized. We let it cure overnight and then put it in a vice and tried to break them apart. We destroyed the panels and never did get the adhesive to fail, if applied over paint though you better have real good paint adhesion. Good stuff Maynard and it doesn't take a lot of it. I'm a believer and plan to use it extensively on my new project especially on panels that are susceptible to warping and/or exposed to moisture which is just about everywhere.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 02-19-2005, 12:49 PM
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Hippie,

Can you get me the exact trade name of those two adhesives or part number
I want to check out as never herd of them before.
Thanks
Barry
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 02-20-2005, 07:42 AM
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If the car is not unibody then by all means use rivits or the bonding adhesive or both. But on unibody cars they need to be welded in for strength.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 02-20-2005, 10:44 AM
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Henry, bonding can be done on unibodies. It just depends where.

Bonding, riveting, bolting, STRW (Squeeze Type Resistance Spot Weld), MIG (or TIG, STICK, what ever) welding, are all ways of attaching componants together. They are all used on unibodies, and FOB cars.

Believe it or not, the bonding actually makes panels STIFFER, not weaker. Because of this you don't want to use bonding on a "crumple zone" of a unibody because it will make it TOO strong and not "crumple". The metal will "crumple" in between each weld, bonding will not allow that. Everything within the passenger compartment is designed to NOT "crumple" so using the bonding is fine there.

Outside the passenger compartment some thought needs to be put into where you would use bonding. But even there, it is safe in many places. Heck, the GM electric car EV1 had a lot of the structure bonded. The rad support for instance was bonded on, no welding what so ever.

As mentioned before, that floor is the PERFECT place to bond. Now, is there is some supports for seat belts, or seats, some welding may be best.

But honestly, the ONLY reason why cars are not completely bonded together is speed of assembly. There are already cars with some serious structual parts like frame rails that are bonded.

I have seen crash tests with unibody cars with bonded on structual panels on one side and the original welded on the other that show no difference.

Bonding is not the future, it is here now. It is a great alternative for many jobs.
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