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View Poll Results: Should I rivet or weld in the floor pan?
Weld it 14 93.33%
Rivet it 1 6.67%
Voters: 15. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 02-12-2005, 07:56 PM
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Floor pans: rivet or weld??

I am having to replace some small sections of the floor pan in my LeSabre and I don't know whether I should rivet it or weld it in. If I weld it in I will need to make a 50' extension cord to reach the car. The place needing replacement does not have any weight on it. My grandfather suggested riveting it in but I don't know

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Old 02-12-2005, 09:28 PM
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Clean the area real good, rivet the patches in and them use some brush on mobile home roof sealer. I did that to my 53 Fords floors and it worked just fine.
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Old 02-12-2005, 10:40 PM
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WAY before I rivited it, I would bond it. Structual adhesives for installing other "weld on"panels like quarters and such is the only way to fly if you don't weld. It seals out moisture, and is as strong as welding. In fact, many cars are already using this technology in manufacture.
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Old 02-13-2005, 12:55 PM
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where would I get the stuff to bond it?
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Old 02-13-2005, 01:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by BuickLeSabre1960
where would I get the stuff to bond it?

*************************************************
In your area you can go to One of the Parks paint stores (2) not all there stores have paint.
Sherwin Williams store across from Ramada Inn
Or Caves auto paints by the mall. All three stores are about 3 miles apart.
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Old 02-13-2005, 02:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by BarryK
*************************************************
In your area you can go to One of the Parks paint stores (2) not all there stores have paint.
Sherwin Williams store across from Ramada Inn
Or Caves auto paints by the mall. All three stores are about 3 miles apart.
We don't deal with parks due to a past run in but I'll try the others
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Old 02-13-2005, 02:28 PM
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Ever thought of moving the car 50 ft closer to the welder.............?

Depends on what you are doing with the car....just a driver? ...Rivet it. ...If you want to do a real good job and keep it forever, weld it.
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Old 02-13-2005, 02:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by poncho62
[B]Ever thought of moving the car 50 ft closer to the welder.............?
The kitchen is kinda in the way
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Old 02-13-2005, 02:46 PM
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OK....just make sure that you go around instead of through it.......................
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Old 02-13-2005, 02:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by poncho62
OK....just make sure that you go around instead of through it.......................
I will
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Old 02-13-2005, 05:19 PM
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If you are going to use rivets, use steel. Aluminum rivets will set up galvanic action with the steel and crumble away to nothing over time.

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Old 02-13-2005, 06:15 PM
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Honestly guys, if you havn't used a structual adhesive,you are missing out. This is a PERFECT place for it.
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Old 02-13-2005, 07:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by MARTINSR
Honestly guys, if you havn't used a structual adhesive,you are missing out. This is a PERFECT place for it.
*********************************************

Exactly right!

"Lap sheer rating"= 2200-2800 lbs per square inch depending on product.

"Tensile strength"= 4000-5000 lbs per sq inch.

I have seen the metal tear and the bond stay! Many times.
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Old 02-13-2005, 07:34 PM
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What is this stuff called??
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Old 02-13-2005, 07:37 PM
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Duramix, 3M, Fuzor, Norton.

They all have different product to repair plastic to metal and SMC bond. Working times range for 15 seconds to 60 minutes, the slower being for bonding.
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