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Old 03-05-2012, 10:09 PM
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Flooring underlayment... did I F** up?

I have been redoing my kitchen - stripped down to bare walls, new cabinets, brought electrics up to code, tore down the floor to the subfloor. I'll also admit to being a tiny bit of a flooring noob. Ok, a big flooring noob.

In preparation for new Marmoleum tile (much like commercial vinyl tile) I laid new 5/8" B/C sanded ply, screwed it down every 6" on the perimeters and 12" in the field. Went down beautifully, no gaps. I used Henry 331 floor patch on all the countersinks, all the seams, and one very small void in the veneer. Turned out VERY nice.

I had rolled the fridge out to get what was under it, and I now have lovely little tracks in the floor. They can be repaired with some more patching stuff, but did I screw myself for using B/C? I asked about using hardwood ply and everyone said that it has as many voids in the underlying plies as B/C and its unavoidable.

So, once I lay the tile, how do I get the fridge back in its corner without F**king up the floor? 5 years from now if I need a new fridge, am I just going to destroy the floor again? So frustrated.

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Old 03-06-2012, 12:55 AM
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We had some of those same problems when I installed the heavy wood stoves, having to roll them on a flat dolly over new tile or hardwood floors. Either use a flat dolly with inflatable tires or a few sheets of thin plywood/hardboard to roll on. Many of the new hardwoods are not that hard, a lot of the vinyls are very soft also. If you can, borrow an Escalara to raise the fridge, then set the fridge on a flat dolly or if using sheets of wood to roll on, roll with the Escalara.
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Old 03-06-2012, 07:38 AM
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You could have checked w/ the flooring manufacturer to see what their reccomendation was/is. Many won't warrantey the floor unless X underlay spec. is used. Around here we use a 5/16" 5 ply aspen underlayment that is accepted by most flooring manufacturer's. The fastening protocol is 3" o.c. perimeter , 6" o.c. in the field .
dave
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Old 03-06-2012, 09:00 AM
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Those reefer rollers from the hdware store help with that problem a lot and yse the issue you are having is a common one.

Sam
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Old 03-08-2012, 09:14 AM
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Thanks for the pointers. The Marmoleum I bought was surplus from someone who bought too much, so no warranty to be concerned with, but I still want it done right. I cheaped out a little bit with the B/C. The manufacturer recommends birch ply, but four things prevented me from doing that: 1) the birch ply I saw had just as many voids in the plies below it as B/C, 2) it was almost twice as much, 3) birch really isn't much harder than pine/fir, and 4) two flooring guys at HD pointed me toward the B/C

The fridge doesn't fit in/out of the kitchen without taking the doors off, so I decided to use the fridge to my advantage. I'm going to tile up to the fridge, then lay 3/16" tempered hardboard on the tile and roll the fridge on to it to do the rest. That not only prevents damage, but I can leave the fridge there for a few days to help the tile really bond with the adhesive on a high-traffic area.

Thanks for the help guys.
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Old 03-08-2012, 04:29 PM
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To heck with questioning it.... I just went to the store and bought 10 sheets of Hardi-backer.
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Old 03-08-2012, 05:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OneMoreTime
Those reefer rollers from the hdware store help with that problem a lot and yse the issue you are having is a common one.

Sam
Good luck,The reefer rollers at my local store have a hard enough time adding up the bill and giving change...
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Old 03-08-2012, 05:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
Good luck,The reefer rollers at my local store have a hard enough time adding up the bill and giving change...
LOL, I get it DBM.

Brian
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