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I love the 15lb steel L-88 wheel. Perfect for a street Big Block.
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Really depends on what your doing with it. Drag racing "generally" uses the heavier steel flywheel to help maintain engine momentum on the launch. circle track or road racing "generally" uses the lightweight aluminum to help with acceleration out of the corner. Since you mentioned "off the line" I'm assuming drag racing and would recomend the steel. Be sure to get an SFI spec one. Or once your car gets fast and the tech guys start looking at it hard you will have to buy one any ways. An sfi clutch can is in order too Even for the street. I had a clutch explode in my Camaro once, went right through the stock bellhousing and I felt it hit the trans tunnel next to my foot
almost pulled a Garllits!
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Depends on what you want from your car. Generally, Steel flywheel is better for drag racing and aluminum flywheel more for roadracing. Aluminum flywheels are about 1/3 rd the weight of steel fw. I opted for an Aluminum flywheel and aluminum drive shaft in my Mach-1 because I roadrace it a few times a year. Aluminum fw will rev quicker, but steel fw has more inertia and will be a little quicker off the line. How much, I really don't know. Aluminum fw are a lot more expensive than steel fw.
![]() Wow, I typed this before I read a67tempest455 comments. I'm such a noob.
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My goals are similar try to lighten it up. on my mopars the oe 6 bolt 130 tooth steel is 30 lb, the aluminum is 12 lb . The difference was noticeable, but like you were fighting with it, and the friction material on AL did chatter slightly.
The best rotating weight savers are, pistons, valve springs, retainers, AL driveshaft, AL yoke, Sometimes AL pullies, rear AL brake drums, Alloy wheels, etc. |
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Don't confuse reciprocating with rotating.
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