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Old 02-22-2012, 03:40 PM
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Flywheel & Mini High Torque Starter Too Close Together

Hello, first off thanks for any help!

I have a sbc 350 with a new Fidanza aluminum conversion flywheel (2 piece rms block to LT1 style T56 6 speed) and a high torque mini starter that are too close to each other when you bolt everything up. Check out the pics.







What do I do? The starter came with this shim but its not enough.



Do I make another like this to move the starter forward and get longer bolts for the starter or shim the flywheel back? Wouldn't that mess up my clutch engagement?

Thanks

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Old 02-22-2012, 04:58 PM
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I made a new shim twice the thickness of the original and havent had a problem yet.
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Old 02-22-2012, 05:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cullencombs
I made a new shim twice the thickness of the original and havent had a problem yet.
I dont know where that shim goes that you have there. I would get a couple of regular GM starter shims and lower the starter a tad for more clearance between the gears. Is that the issue?
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Old 02-22-2012, 05:59 PM
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I see in the picture now the starter mount has 3 holes drilled in it, Can you rotate the starter into anonther hole for more clearance
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Old 02-23-2012, 07:15 AM
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Cullen - I may just have to do that, I am going to need to get some new longer bolts to make up for it and have enough threads in the aluminum mounting block. That will bring the starter motor away from the aluminum mounting block.

Richiehd - gear mesh depth (backlash) is not my issue, the starter and flywheel are too close together. If the motor were running it would be turning the starter because the two gears are meshed without the bendix spring sprung (starter activated). Adjusting starter into another hole just rotates the assembly for frame/header clearance, I thought that might work too and tried that.

here is what it should look like
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Old 02-23-2012, 03:33 PM
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What brand is that starter?
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Old 02-23-2012, 04:54 PM
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Mason71,
Your starter looks allot like mine(GM pn 12361146). It came with a round shim that installs in the mounting block between the bearing(that is next to the gear) and the mounting block to move the gear towards the front of the engine if you get my drift. Its used in conjunction with the other spacer you showed in your 1st post. You might get an idea what I'm talking about by checking my pic. The spacer goes into the smallest diameter bore where the bearing seats.
However in all honesty I don't think its wide enough in your case as its only about .050" thick. Two might just clear, but the GM directions call for .100"(+/- .040). FWIW
ssmonty
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Old 02-24-2012, 07:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssmonty
Mason71,
Your starter looks allot like mine(GM pn 12361146). It came with a round shim that installs in the mounting block between the bearing(that is next to the gear) and the mounting block to move the gear towards the front of the engine if you get my drift. Its used in conjunction with the other spacer you showed in your 1st post. You might get an idea what I'm talking about by checking my pic. The spacer goes into the smallest diameter bore where the bearing seats.
However in all honesty I don't think its wide enough in your case as its only about .050" thick. Two might just clear, but the GM directions call for .100"(+/- .040). FWIW
ssmonty
I see what you mean, thanks. I will take a look at that too.

Thanks for the help guys, chime in if anyone else has suggestions.
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Old 02-24-2012, 08:27 AM
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Aggravation

Man its aggravating when you buy the good stuff and it will not go together right. If you haven't already figured it out, here are some measures to help correct it. First, I'd bench cycle the starter a bunch of times with a battery to make sure the drive is sucking back in all the way. Second, some of the mini starters come with two sets of shims in case of bad stack up tolerances. As previously mentioned don't forget that if you shim the housing back you have to shim the drive back by an equal amount. Here's a starter sold with two sets of shims; http://www.racingjunk.com/Ignition-S...-Starter-.html

You may have to shim the starter and the flywheel with a flywheel shim like this;http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...ductId=1206365

Here are some instuction sheets that indicate .100" (+/- .040") so it may be as close as .060" clearance;http://static.speedwaymotors.com/pdf/910-66258.pdf

Hope this helps you out, thats a badboy flywheel you've got. If you think this is a pain, wait until you get to the clutch engage/disengage part. Out of curiousity,what kind of clutch are you using?

Nolan
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Old 02-24-2012, 12:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OLNOLAN
Man its aggravating when you buy the good stuff and it will not go together right. If you haven't already figured it out, here are some measures to help correct it. First, I'd bench cycle the starter a bunch of times with a battery to make sure the drive is sucking back in all the way. Second, some of the mini starters come with two sets of shims in case of bad stack up tolerances. As previously mentioned don't forget that if you shim the housing back you have to shim the drive back by an equal amount. Here's a starter sold with two sets of shims; http://www.racingjunk.com/Ignition-S...-Starter-.html

You may have to shim the starter and the flywheel with a flywheel shim like this;http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...ductId=1206365

Here are some instuction sheets that indicate .100" (+/- .040") so it may be as close as .060" clearance;http://static.speedwaymotors.com/pdf/910-66258.pdf

Hope this helps you out, thats a badboy flywheel you've got. If you think this is a pain, wait until you get to the clutch engage/disengage part. Out of curiousity,what kind of clutch are you using?

Nolan
Thanks for the help Nolan, I am planning to run the stock (used) LT1 T56 style (valeo pull type) clutch that come with the tranny. Also stock slave and a 3/4 bore master cylinder.

I am planning to have the flywheel and clutch balanced together, just need to find a place local that will do it for me.

Do you guys think I should resurface that pressure plate or just buff it off with some steel wool? The guy I bought if from said the clutch was almost new. I'll definitely run some brake cleaner over it to get all the oil off during final assembly.




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