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Old 06-16-2007, 09:32 PM
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Fog Lamps..

Hey Doc: Try this one. We purchased some 5" yellow lense chrome housing add on fog lamps from LeBaron Bonney. Problem is that they will come on for about twenty minutes and then burn out fuse? I am sure there is some type of high output bulb in there but I do not know what type. It is wired with a seperate switch and in line 25 amp fuse and about 12 gague standard auto hook up wire. When they are running the outside housing temperatue exceeds 300 degrees F measured with thermocouple. Any suggestions?? The only thing that we can think of is that as the bulb heats up it draws more current and poof goes the fuse.... WE have same lights, same setup on the 29 Roadster and while the housing gets hot it does not blow fuse...THANKS... THERESA

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Old 06-17-2007, 03:42 AM
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Doc here,

Ahh..Frog lamps...

On some lamps , as the Gas inside the Lamp heats up, the filament resistance will change (like HID's and MV lamps) This can cause more draw at the lamp .. Some of these have ballast circuits to compensate the draw and "Quick Heat " the gas..

You may be under fused..AND you may want to consider using a fuse link in place of a standard fuse , which won't open as quick on current spikes.

You also want to check your grounding, it may be throwing some "Stuff" in the game and adding more current draw..be sure it is good and bonded.

Check to be sure the Switch isn't getting hot..

You may want to monitor the current from a "Cold On" until it pops the fuse, to watch the rise spike..(provided you have a meter with that high of an amp capability, most top out at 10 amps) That will give you an idea of the draw..

10 Gauge wire might be better for this application depending on the length of the wire run..you may be consuming current in the wire changing it to heat, doing no useful work..and upping the draw..

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Old 06-18-2007, 09:00 PM
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HEY DOC: I think we solved the problem with the fog lights. We " Improved" the ground by cleaning off some of the paint in the mounting bracket foot print. Current readings were steady between 5 and 6 Amps and light housings did not get nearly as hot. We let the lights run for about a half an hour and current did not increase. It is almost the identical problem that you helped us with on the tail lights on our fiberglass body Shay. It seems that when you do not have a strong connection to ground the device can heat up and increase operating temperature. I guess it must be Ohm's Law where a poor ground connection is seen as a high resistance in the circuit and results in much higher current and operating temperature. You would think it would be just the opposite where you could not supply enough voltage and current flow to light the light.. Which is really kind of what was happening on the tail lights where brake light and turn signal would hardly glow the filament until ground was Improved. Anyway thanks for your expert and quick assistance..... THERESA
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Old 06-18-2007, 09:27 PM
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Doc here,

Your Welcome!

Whenever the Voltage is increased...The Current is Decreased..and visa Versa..(current up..Voltage Down) And your quite correct..It is Ohms law.

A bad ground can/will Convert Current to Heat..Current Serving no useful Purpose..Ergo the draw of the device is up..and the performance of the device is down..(it is fighting to supply current, through bad grounds, or sometimes under size wire) ..

It is a path of "Resistance" of the current to ground.. That resistance (like a lamp filament) Causes the path to heat up..consuming Current but not aiding the device to operate. Imagine if you will, a 1000 pounds of water head pressure or Air Pressure, being pumped from a 3 inch pipe, through to an 1/8 inch copper pipe..that pipe will get hot doing it ( A resistance path) ..If it doesn't disappear altogether.

That's why (the short story..no pun intended..) Wires and Ground points sometimes heat up , or a device will consume more current than it should..and not operate as well as it should.

Good to Hear you Got Er' Done!

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