Wow, some great info in this post!

This kind of info is hard to find these days and someone who knows something about those old Y-blocks is even rarer still. Some pics of the old bird would be great if you can find the time to share some Maverick4.7.

This post get 5 stars in my book! I smell addition into knowledge base here!

Well just thought i would keep you guys up to date i got the motor and trany pulled yesterday with out much trouble. trany is getting rebuilt and im waiting on the 2 books that were mentioned above to come in. Right after i got everything out my boss called and said to hold up he found an oiler kit lol. I talked to him and told him how i thought it would be better to do a rebuild than to put the kit on. Now hopefully i can do a good job on the rebuild. I will try and get some pics up soon.

I've done quite a few Y-blocks and built a beautiful external oiler system for a '55 'bird a couple years back. If you need and specifics or help contact me at our website www.gearheadcity.com . I was never a fan of the external oilers because they were designed for the do DIY and usually looked it. I used brake line and flared fittings with engine hugging contours/bends. It could have passed for OEM to those not knowledgeable about the engines.

Been a long time since I worked on one of these but 2 thinks come to mind. First if you're going to go through the engine it is one of a kind so far as I know when it comes to timing chain installation. Almost all engines align the dot on the cam sprocket to the dot on the crank sprocket but on the Y block you put bothe dots to the drivers side & then count the links of chain between the dots. Can't remember exactly how many links. It's either 12 or 14 but only one number of links will allow botjh dots to face the 3 o'clock position. 2nd thing, When you get through and have both sides oiling , the valve lash adjusted correctly, take a good piece of Burlap bag, fold it to fit under each valve cover. This will for one thing dampen any valve train noise & will always be saturated with oil to drip down on to the rocker arms.

Tombstone is correct about camshaft to crank timing, most chains i have installed have colored links so it is easy to have the chain line up with marks on gear. re valve train if rockers are refaced and rocker shafts cleaned internally or replaced and oil flow restored,se clearance .017 and the noise will be less than any hyd lifter engine (using a stock cam.)these engines are very tough and will run for ever if properly serviced once and a while. if rockers shafts ar re usable pull the core plugs out with a bottom tape as the tap byts into core plug it will turn(core plug)keep turning and gently pull back. good luck cliff
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Sounds obvious, but if you are getting rocker oil to one head, you should be able to rule out the cam as the source of the problem right? If the cam bearing turned, you would not get oil to both heads. Correct?

thanks the passanger head is getting oil its the driverside that is not getting any.
FB13 is right, some how when I made my post I missed this(see above)cam turned out of line would cut off oil to both heads. If it were me and was going to go tru the motor I would have the block and heads hot tanked and flushed to make sure all passage's were clear. My .02



Kenny

Lost your job yet?
Keep buying foreign.

re oil to rockers #3 cambearing feeds rockers to both sides so if i side gets no oil moast likly that side oil is restrickted with sludge at dog leg between block and cyl head. remove rockers on no oil side try blowing down the feed hole, reinst rockers leave the pedistals loose at the 1 where you blew and start engine, if oil comes great. reason to run engine in this manner is some cams had holes in the #3 gernal that metered the oil as they turned, others had a grove around thus steady oil. if oil comes out with pedistal loos the problem is sludge in rocker shaft meaning remove cor plugs and clean rocker shafts or replace. good luck cliff

Hi guys sorry its taken me so long to get back been pretty busy. My boss had me take the motor after i had taken it apart to a shop and had it tanked and rebuilt ended up the oil passages were pretty bad. well i got the motor back painted it and got the trany back went on and had it rebuilt while we had it out. we also found out that the motor is a 272 not a 292 but thats no big deal. me and my dad put the motor back in and got it running then we took it to a shop to have some things fine tuned a complete new wiring harness and disk breaks put on the front. well here are a couple pics still i can get it detailed up.




the only bad thing is im going to have to replace the valley pan gasket it has a small leak and i have to replace the driver side exhaust manifold.

If I remember right the early heads had a weak combustion chamber . should be ok for a daily driver. the fix if you were going to add a 57 paxton was to drill up thru the head all the way then use a long gun tap. tap the hole and use sealant and screw a long bolt all the way thru and trim off the ends and grind it smoth... later heads had a reinforcement cast in place....retired Ford engineer.

I had a crown vic with a 312 merc, My buddy had a 2 door post with the 57 312 2 4 barrel engine ... his was faster.