Just thought I would ask if any one out there would know were I could get an oiler kit for a ford 272,292,312? ive been working on my bosses car its a very nice 55 ford fairlane sunlinner with a 292. I belive that the motor is from a new car since it has a spin on oil filter. So far I have no luck at all finding this kit. I was also told that the kit would have to be made. If anyone has any pics of there kit could you please post them so I can see. thanks

If it's oiling the top end I'd leave it be, those kits were ugly beyond description with copper tubes running externally on the top of the engine, holes thru the rocker covers that leaked oil, just icky.

Today's high detergent oils should keep the small transfer passages open, there should be no problem if none currently exists. If it does it's better and lot cleaner to pull the heads. On the bottom of each head is a transfer slot from a drilled oil passage in the block to an adjacent head bolt. Take a Dremel tool and slightly enlarge the transfer passage and smooth it. Then take the head bolt (2 actually, one from each side) and grind a flat from about a quarter inch below the head to the top of the threads, taking about .05 to .07 deep cut. Then smooth and polish the flat and blend it into the curvature of the bolt shank. This is not a problem with the Y block, everything on this engine is overbuilt including the bolts.

I haven't seen one of these kits in many years, you might try Hemmings, if you just gotta go this way. The oil filter could also be a replacement kit that converted the cannister filter to a throw away.

Bogie

thanks the passanger head is getting oil its the driverside that is not getting any. My boss wants the kit he just wants to drive the car. but i will see about trying to pull that head and see if i can do what you said. you would not happen to have any pics would you? also im pretty sure the motor was rebuilt at some time because i found a plate on the side of the motor with the name of the place.

previous post partialy corrects but yblocks did not get oil via a head bolt. they had a separate oiling hole in the head ,ther is a oblong grove in the head that often plugs and if heads are off can easily be improved. the oil comes up threw the block metered by the camshaft some have holes some have a grove around the bearing journals. first try to revive oil would be remove rockers and blow down holes in each head, if you have a old distributor make a pre lube drive and with rockers removed prelube engine with distributor removed oil should come out the holes. often ther is no oil to rockers because of pluged rocker shafts. failing these solutions it will be a engine teardown or toplube kit. the fe s have oilcomeing up past 1 rocker bolt eack side. cliff

If memory serves, these kits sourced oil pressure from the gauge/idiot light sender location with a T fitting that relocated the sender and provided a tap for a 1/8 inch tube that fed the rockers. The feed was accomplished by replacing one of the rocker cover studs on each cover with a hollow stud that accepted a fitting, one side used a T and other an L these were connected with 1/8 tube, most often copper which over time would work harden and break, so using steel tube is a good idea. If you're going to fab parts check the threads on the sender first as I don't remember if this is a pipe or bolt thread. I'm fairly sure that this is 1/8th pipe but not so sure I'd stake my life on the bet. For the stud keep in mind that the head side will take a USS thread and the fitting needs a NPT thread for the fitting. Also, the stud needs a bleed hole that loacates inside the rocker shaft to feed oil into the shaft.

Some of these Y blocks have a relief tube in one end of the rocker shaft that prevents pressure from building in it. It is a good idea to remove this and plug the rocker shaft with a soft plug so as to force the oil out from the rocker bushings instead of just dripping out of the shaft.

Bogie

if engine is running with valve covers off the side with no oil loosen the rocker bolts just a bit look for oil comeing out of the stands it will be 1 only rev the engine a bit with bolts all loose, if oil eventouly comes the problem is pluged rocker shaft, as prev, poster sead block of the return pipes , i just pinch them weth side cutters, but clean the shafts internally as inadeqet oi will wear out valve guids and valves. if no oil comes pull rocker right off and try to blow the feed hole or poke a small wire down, then reass rockers weth stand loose at oil hole and re start, no oil pull head if oil comes clean shafts, remove cor plugs and do a good job.

thanks for all the info guys hopefully something will work.

well looks like i am going to be pulling the motor. me and my boss are going to give it a good rebuild and clean all the oil lines really good.

The 292 engines had another problem that caused the whole problem of no oil to the rockers and I believe this was the reason for the external oil kits in the first place. The early motors had cam bearings that had a single hole in them ,no groove nothing but that single hole.The bearing would spin in the block closing off the hole tus the supply of oil to the valve train was lost. The oil kit was low cost fix as the other fix ment engine teardown.
In your last post you said you were going to go in to the engine, make sure you check cam bearings and go ahead and replace them with newer grooved ones even if they have not rotated.


Hope this helps,
Good Luck
Kenny

would anyone know a good book that will have all the info for a rebuild? Something like a Chilton's book or shop manual i would like to have something to go by so i know tyhe specs and what the torque setting is for everything.

Currently Jim Eickman's book "Ford Y-Block" is out there. Beyond that you can go to Alibris to see if they can locate a period manual.

http://www.alibris.com/

Barnes and Noble has a used book as do others as well.

Bogie

More:

http://www.alibris.com/booksearch?q...s*listing*cover


Old stuff in a new format
http://www.gearheadcafe.com/ford_shop_manual.html

Bogie

thanks you rock. Do you think the one you listed from alibris would have the the torque specs?

I would think so, also, the book from Eickman has specs.

Bogie

i have a old motors repair manual with all the yblock stuff. re the camshafts, some have a groove in the cam jernal some have holes to metr the oil i prefer the groved cam, if cam has any sighn of wear get it reground also the lifters can be resurfaced. shad bolt cams in vancouver canada have reground lots for me never had a problem. if you need specs email me at ct1940@shaw.ca .if regrind or new cam be sure to have lifters refaced or replace them also get rockers re facedthe yblocks wer as bad as sbcheveys for cam failures. cliff