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Old 12-15-2002, 07:40 PM
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I need some tech help on rebuilding my first engine
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Old 12-15-2002, 08:19 PM
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We would be glad to help! <img src="graemlins/mwink.gif" border="0" alt="[mwink]" />
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Old 12-15-2002, 08:37 PM
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anything I can get will be helpful because I just got a ford sign tattoed on my arm
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Old 12-16-2002, 03:31 AM
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Now that's dedication!
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Old 12-16-2002, 09:26 AM
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There we go a BIG 5.0 on my butt cheek...ok sorry I don't know what to do about rebuilding an engine though......
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Old 12-16-2002, 09:37 AM
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femadorob420, what part of WV are you from?
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Old 12-16-2002, 09:59 AM
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If you are going to be doing the machine work yourself, be cautious and work at your own pace. Engines will fail because of carelessness. For example, on small block chevys they have an O-ring valve stem seal that goes beneath the retainer to seal the oil from going down the valve into the combustion chamber. Some people will put the O-ring on the valve stem, then put on the spring and retainer instead of putting it on after the spring and retainer. It will crush it defeating the whole sealing purpose, hence you will burn a bunch of oil. Small things like this make a difference.

If you are just going to be putting it together by selecting aftermarket parts, pay attention to packaging. Don't buy an intake manifold and cam that makes a bunch of torque and then buy some heads that flow a lot for upper rpm horsepower. Some people think by doing this they will have the best of both worlds. Acutally, the exact opposite is true, you will not have good torque or hp. Holley and Edelbrock take the guesswork out of it by selling complete performance engine kits that include, intake manifold, cam, timing chain, and heads. If you package your engine right, you will find that it will have great power and effeciency in the operating band that you will use most often. Another thing I would advise is to not buy a performer RPM package from edelbrock if the engine doesn't see over 5000rpm regularly. This package is made for 1500-6500rpms, if you use it for street driving which normally doesnt go above 3000, it will feel like it doesne't have any power, when in actuality it does, you just never drive it in the power band. Does that make sence? I hope i didn't confuse you any.

If you need any specific help with anything don't be afraid to ask, everybody here is more than willing to answer any question.
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Old 12-16-2002, 12:00 PM
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Go to your local parts store or get on the web and buy a "how to" book on rebuilding your specific engine. The book will walk you through the process and if you follow their guidance carefully, you will end up with a proper rebuild. I have done a stock rebuild of a 5.0 Ford and am not a professional. I really found nothing very challenging. And don't discount a short block purchase. It is hard to beat the mass engine rebuilders prices when you take your block to your local machine shop. If you want something custom and exotic, then building it yourself may be the way to go. It is impossible for us to specifically guide you, but if you you don't understand the book or get into a quandry about a particular step, come on back and we can help.
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Old 12-16-2002, 01:19 PM
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The machine work has already been done and lower end assembled im just not familiar with putting heads and cam on and in motor I cant even afford to buy a how to book on engine rebuilding so any help will be greatly appreciated
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Old 12-16-2002, 02:00 PM
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I really need torque specs
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Old 12-16-2002, 08:54 PM
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Im building this 302 for my pinto may sound a little funny but it should run good if I get it done. I just need to know how you get everything in place when changing heads and cam stupid question but I have never been this far into a motor before.
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Old 12-17-2002, 03:46 PM
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when putting on cylinder heads, you are going to want to start on the bolt found on the middle of the head on the top side of the engine. Torque it to 50ft-lbs, then do the lower one. Skip to the next set of bolts to the immediate rights, top first then bottom. Then to the left of the first set, the to the right of the second set, then the last set. Do the whole sequence over but this time torque it to 60ft-lbs, after you do it the second time...geuss what you get to do it a third time, this time to 80ft-lbs. If you use ARP bolts and their moly-lube you only have to torque them to a final spec of 60 because it lubricates the bolt better.

For intake manifold, its pretty hard to describe because it seems like your jumping all over the place. First step torque to 15, then to 20. Here is a link that shows the sequence. http://dfwmotorsport.com/Fairlane/Manifolds.htm
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Old 12-17-2002, 05:24 PM
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Can I get any help with timing
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