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Old 12-10-2003, 07:57 PM
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Ford 351 Windsor Teardown & Rebuild 101

This post is all about tearing down and rebuilding a Ford 351 Windsor engine.This is the first engine that I've torn into by myself,and I'm having a blast.It's fun to take it all apart and put it back together,but keeping up with the hardware is the pain in the wazoo.But all in all,it's a blast.I'm not having any problems right now,but there might be something in the future that I'll need info on.

Here's what I have:

Engine:

Block Casting #: D2AE-6015-BA-9

1971-1974 Ford 351 Windsor Block

Bore: 4.00
Deck: 9.480
Stock Pistons
Stock Crank
Stock Cam

Heads:

Driver Side Casting #: D00E G
Passenger Side Casting #: C90E D

1969-1974 Ford 351 Windsor Heads

Valves: 1.84 Intake/1.54 Exhaust
Combustion Chamber: 60.4cc
Stock Ports
Stock Valves
Stock Springs
Stock Rockers

Now,since ya'll know what I have,we can get started lol.

I originally thought that I had a 302 when I bought the donor truck,but it turned out to be a 351W after I saw "351" stamped on the heads when I pulled off the valve covers.So,I ran the block casting number and that's what it turned out to be.

My plans for this motor is to hook it to either a C4 or an AOD and put it in a Ford Ranger,either 2WD or 4WD.Preferably 2WD.It will be a street/strip engine,pumping the most bang for the buck.I'm low budget,but Hotrodders.com Member Max Keith helped me get around that.He told me how to port and polish my heads,along with a deck grind and an intake match to possibly make 35-40 more horsepower than stock.Now that helps.I'm going to order a Carbide Burr Set from Eastwoodco.com to complete this task.

My plans for the block are to have it cleaned and honed.I don't want to bore it out at this time since the stock bores are in excellent shape.My rebuild kit is going to consist of what I think are the best products on the market for an engine.A set of flattop pistons will come with this set also .

Right now,everything is looking good.I have the block stripped down to everything but the crank,cam,and timing chain.I'm going to finish that up here in the next few days.The block will probably be taken to the machine shop sometime early next year.

I don't really have any problems at the moment,but some will probably come up in the near future.Basically this current post is to see if anyone knows of any tricks or tips that I can perform on this 351 for more horsepower.I think that I've basically got the heads covered.If there's anything else,feel free to throw that in.

I will probably be posting some on this engine here in the next few days,as I'll be finishing up the teardown steps.Maybe this topic will not only help me,but others with 351W's also.Man it's a blast to tear into your first engine,isn't it !?

Thanks!!

Nightrain

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Old 12-14-2003, 09:21 PM
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Well,I just finished tearing down the 351W tonight .I'm so glad that it's over with.Now I just have a bare block and from here on,I can start from "Square One".We had a family reunion today and I was talking to my cousin who races dirt track cars.To my suprise,he runs a 1971 Mustang with a 351W.He sat there and told me tons of things that I could do to my engine to make it have more horsepower.He told me of a few ways to go about stroking this motor,etc. etc.I'm gonna talk with him some more on this.

I'm going to be talking to him after the first of the year on where to go with this doll.I already know where I'm going to go with the heads,I just don't know what I want to do about the bottom end.I think that after the holiday season is over,I'm going to take this block to the machine shop to have it dipped,cleaned,checked,and have the cam bearings and freeze plugs installed.I'm also going to go ahead and have the stock bores checked and honed.I might even have to get the crank turned.I'm going to do some further checking on that though.

Just thought that I'd give ya'll a little update on what's going on .

Nightrain
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Old 12-14-2003, 09:57 PM
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The journey begins.....

If you haven't already, get a book by Tom Monroe called "How to Rebuild a Small Block Ford". Pretty much your basic how-to with a load of info and part numbers.

Pay particular attention to your block deck height. Some of the 351W blocks had a 9.480 height and others had 9.503. Not a lot of difference, but it all counts when computing compression ratio.

Also, depending upon where you go with this project, pay attention to your quench distance.

In short, do your homework before you commit the block to a machinist.

Have a plan and have fun.
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Old 12-14-2003, 11:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by mstngjoe
The journey begins.....
Couldn't have said it better myself .

I can't decide if I want to do this now or wait until I go to Automotive School,but I really want one of these for my 351.Does it look like a good quality kit for the money or should I build my own?I think that it said this kit had 6.125" rods.I think that the 427 Stroker has 6.200"??Am I right?Check it out.

427 Stroker Kit

Nightrain
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Old 12-14-2003, 11:54 PM
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351W

I dont recommend going with the 427 stroker unless you want max cubes. the best bang for the buck is the 3.85 stroker. You use stock 351 rods, 302 pistons, and the crank is for sale for less thaN $500. This will net you a 385 cube engine without boring. Has good rod angularity and Rod/stroke ratio. The 427 build is a fairly exspensive setup and the stock heads, even worked out wont feed it what it needs to really breath. The "390" is about as big as you can go and get respectable performance from the production heads . Be advised if you go with stroker, dont mill the heads for added compression. You will have plenty.
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Old 12-14-2003, 11:56 PM
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Man I tell ya what..One modification leads to another lol.Oh well,I think that I'm just going to rebuild this 351W to stock parameters except for the head mods you told me about and possibly a little warmer-than-stock cam.I will wait until I have enough money to do it right before I go with a 427 Stroker .

Nightrain
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Old 12-15-2003, 12:01 AM
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351 stroker

The 6.125 rods are based on long chevie units, the pistons are a custom item, as is the crank.

Id go with a hydraulic lifter cam of about 210-220 degrees duration at .050". This should have a bout .500" lift or there abouts. And that plenty for a street engine. Try to stay with a cam that has about 109-110 degree lobe separation.
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Old 12-15-2003, 12:02 AM
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I'll jot that down.I'm trying to keep notes of everything that I'm wanting to do with this 351 and when I think I'm finished,I'll see how it'll all "jive" together.

Nightrain
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Old 12-15-2003, 12:24 AM
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351w

A split duration cam is what I would go with; with about 10 degrees more duration on the exhaust side. This seems to help a lot with the restrictive exhaust port.
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Old 07-19-2008, 08:42 PM
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are you finished with it yet or are you still going to post?
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Old 07-20-2008, 02:57 AM
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5 years ago, I hope he's finished.
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