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Old 11-24-2005, 10:52 AM
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ford 5.0 help needed

My brother in law has a 66 stang he wants to build a new motor for. His cousin has an 88 gt 5.0 that was carburated ( i beleive this is a rollor motor correct me if im wrong) he can get for free. someone told me that the early fords are 28oz and the 5.0 is 50oz and that the pullys wont line up.my main question is if i change to a double drilled balancer and a 50oz flexplate for a c4 will i have to rebalance the motor.also does anyone know if these cam with forged internals or not? any help is greatly appreciated.

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Old 11-24-2005, 11:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1969NovaSS
My brother in law has a 66 stang he wants to build a new motor for. His cousin has an 88 gt 5.0 that was carburated ( i beleive this is a rollor motor correct me if im wrong) he can get for free. someone told me that the early fords are 28oz and the 5.0 is 50oz and that the pullys wont line up.my main question is if i change to a double drilled balancer and a 50oz flexplate for a c4 will i have to rebalance the motor.also does anyone know if these cam with forged internals or not? any help is greatly appreciated.
It is an easy bolt in. The 50 oz C4 flexplate is readily available. Keep the stock 5.0 balancer. I would try for an AOD trans. I would use either all the 5.0 front dress (preferred), or all the 289/302 front dress. Use a Maverick radiator with the 5.0 water pump inlet and a 69 Mustang shroud. Yes roller, but needs a CompCams replacement designed for carbureted engine only IF you are changing cams. The HO stocker is great. The stock heads need a good DIY porting, at least the exhaust bumps. All the usual stuff applies. You need a 289/302 front sump oil pan and drill a hole and relocate the dipstick to the timing cover. Edelbrock manifold and 600 cfm Edel.

I have seen several 5.0s with 150,000 miles on them that did NOT need to be rebored. They are well built. A ring and bearing freshening, cam, etc and it might be good to go.

NO forged crank. Yes forged pistons in the HO.
NO rebalance.

Been there, done that.

check out www.readershotrods.com drag cars/ georges drag strip

Last edited by xntrik; 11-24-2005 at 06:39 PM.
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Old 11-24-2005, 10:12 PM
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ford 5.0 help

the 5.0 engine doesnt have the pulleys so i was going to use the ones from his 289 but someone told me they have 3 bolts not 4 like the 5.0. I have some early 351 heads that will be diy ported, a performer 289 intake, and a edel 600 carb. will the timing cover and water pump from the 289 fit the 5.0?also so this will need a special cam why would that be? thanks for the information so far.
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Old 11-24-2005, 11:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1969NovaSS
the 5.0 engine doesnt have the pulleys so i was going to use the ones from his 289 but someone told me they have 3 bolts not 4 like the 5.0. I have some early 351 heads that will be diy ported, a performer 289 intake, and a edel 600 carb. will the timing cover and water pump from the 289 fit the 5.0?also so this will need a special cam why would that be? thanks for the information so far.
1) just redrill your old pulley with 4 holes to fit the 5.0 dampner.
2) the timing cover and wp, oil pan, valve covers, will fit.... if you use the mechanical fuel pump drive, it will hit the 5.0 cam drive chain.... need to change it
3) existing 5.0 HO cam is good... If you ever upgrade then get a cam for carbureted applications.
4) be sure your distributor has a compatible gear for the steel roller cam.
5) 69-70 C9OE and D0OE W-heads are good for the HO. Same compression. DIY yes. using the early 69-70 W heads you will need different rocker arms and pushrods
6) actually I would DIY the E7TE heads you have and use the original rockers and pushrods.

The SFI cam has 115+ lobe separation angle. A carb engine does better with 112 degrees. Don't worry about it, just run the cam you have. You will like it.

If you ever upgrade, CompCams has one with .100 more lift but then you must modify your valve guides and add better springs too.
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Old 11-25-2005, 06:50 AM
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-Modernizing An Early 289/302-

-Conversion Damper-3 Or 4 Bolt-

I think this damper will solve your accessory drive problem. Read description carefully.


Quote:
NEW HIGH PERFORMANCE PRO DAMPER

This auction is for a 6.4" Pro Damper for 1982 to 1995, 302 302HO 302 HO 5.0L 5.0L HO Small Block Ford externally balanced (50 oz-im) Our Pro Dampers fit both early 3-bolt and late 4-bolt standard Ford pulley bolt patterns, Pulley spacers may be required on some 1980 and later engines, (spacer for your year is included in purchase price... no additional charge!! See below for spacer sizing info, if no spacer Part# is included with your payment, we WILL NOT include one.). As you can see from the photos Pro race Dampers have multiple timing marks to accommodate any year or style timing pointer!! Even if your putting a Newer 5.0L HO into and older application... we've got you covered!! Pro Race Dampers are made from super tough Nodular Iron. These dampers are designed to be installed on engines that may rev over 7000 rpm. The machine work on these dampers is second to none and the critical fit tolerances and balance are held more closely than OEM. All externally balanced dampers feature bolt-in counterweights. This feature allows for swapping weights between dampers (Ford) or adding them to internal balanced dampers (Chevy) if you change applications or change to Neutral Balance. These are top of the line quality, you can't buy a more accurately balanced damper.

Below are excerpts from pro-prod. web site regarding ford damper spacer fitment. Spacers are available in .350" Pt# 81006, .950" Pt# 81007 and .875" Pt# 81008 thickness.

Note: All small block Ford dampers are made to the shortest (as measured from the front the engine) length as used on '79 & earlier engines. Spacers are used to move the front face out to provide correct pulley alignment on later engines. See note under adjacent Street Damper listings. This feature allows you to install a late engine in an early vehicle and use the stock pulleys and drive arrangement. All our Ford units have both three and four bolt hole patterns and when used without the spacer, are the correct length for early model vehicles.

Small Block Ford - Small block Ford (260/289/302/351/5.0L) dampers were made in five different lengths, two different accessory bolt patterns, and two different external counterweights. We make two models; the 80006 has the 28.4 in. oz. counterweight and the 80007 has the 50 in. oz. counterweight. Both of these dampers are made to the early style shortest length. This will allow users to install '81 & later 5.0L engines (w/50 in. oz. dampers) in early Mustangs or street rods and have more clearance in the front than if they had the stock longer damper. Our dampers also have both 3 and 4-bolt pulley patterns so either early or late pulleys can be used. For later applications with longer dampers, we offer a series of three inexpensive aluminum spacers that accommodate these various applications. Because some of the early three bolt accessory pulleys piloted on a male boss and some piloted into a female bore, we also provide (with every damper) a special pilot adapter to accommodate either style. Both Ford Small block dampers have three sets of timing marks on them to accommodate the various timing pointer locations Ford used. To the best of our knowledge, between our two dampers and three spacers, we can fit nearly every SB Ford engine ever made.

How to Determine Which Ford Spacer To Use - Measure the overall length of your damper from the end of the snout to the front pulley face. If it is 3" long, no spacers are required. If it is 3.187" long, you can modify spacer #81006(.350") to work. ~See instructions that come with the damper) If it is 3.375" long, use spacer #81006(.350"). If it's 3.875" long, use spacer #81008(.875"), If it's 4.0" long, use spacer #81007(.950"). 1980 & earlier requires no spacer.
I believe your confusion regarding camshafts is the resulting ignition firing order. The late 5.0L HO and early/late 351W/5.8L use a different firing order than the 289/302/STD 5.0L engines. Make note of this.

-MORE DESCRIPTIVE URL-


Last edited by KULTULZ; 11-25-2005 at 07:10 AM. Reason: Add Information
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Old 11-25-2005, 10:56 AM
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ford 5.0 help

What kind of rockers will i need? I thought you just need the adjustable ones not the pedastol cuz it already has the adjustable. I figured the pushrods would be different but thats not a big problem.thanks for the help so far i never though about redilling the holes .
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Old 11-25-2005, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1969NovaSS
What kind of rockers will i need? I thought you just need the adjustable ones not the pedastol cuz it already has the adjustable. I figured the pushrods would be different but thats not a big problem.thanks for the help so far i never though about redilling the holes .

Don't get confused about the cams. Note the different HO firing order.

Most of that balancer stuff is AWOT. You could always get the full front dress from a junkyard.

If your 88 HO engine has adjustable rocker arms on it already, I can't guess what heads or modifications you have.

Last edited by xntrik; 11-25-2005 at 04:17 PM.
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Old 11-26-2005, 08:08 AM
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ford 5.0 help needed

sorry i was saying my c90e 351 heads have adjustable rockers i have not seen the 5.0 yet. i pick it up tomarrow and will inspect everything then. thanks for your help.
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