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Old 11-08-2012, 07:49 AM
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Ford 8.8 Rear U-Joints

I am using a Ford 8.8 rear from a 1990 Explorer in a PT Cruiser converted to RWD. The rear has a nominally 5 inch circular input flange and that diameter is about 1/2 " too large to clear the fuel cell comfortably.
I have seen pictures of flange-to- Ujoint adapters and also splined yokes that seem to be available. I suppose removing the stock flanged input and machining it to a smaller diameter and smaller bolt pattern is also possible.
I am totally unfamiliar with Ford axles and wonder if it is possible to remove the input flange and replace it without affecting the pinion depth.
Any suggestions on how to generate a little clearance will be appreciated. This will not be a high torque situation (470 ft-lbs max in low gear) and I believe a 1310 size U Joint would be big enough but perhaps a 1330 would be better .
The drive shaft I plan to shorten is from an S-10 and has the plastic retained U joints -- How do you replace them ?
I'll be grateful for any help!

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Old 11-08-2012, 08:46 AM
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You might be able to use the flange from a Mustang 8.8. I'm pretty sure that they are smaller than the truck flanges. There are standard yokes availbale for the 8.8 too. As for the pinion depth, you won't change it, but you have to be carefull not to change the pinion bearing preload. The best way that I have found to do this is to torque the pinion nut to 125 to 150 foot pounds. That is tight enough to keep anything from moving but not tight enough to crush the spacer any more, which would increase the pinion bearing prelaod. I'm sure that someone is going to tell you to mark the nut and count the number of turns it takes to remove the nut. That will not work when changing the flange because the replacement flange will not be exactly the same thickness.


When replacing the flange or yoke be sure that you smear a little RTV sealant into the splines of the flange or yoke before you put it back on. If you don't then you will have oil seaping out around the splines and around the nut. Do not put sealant on the pinion shaft splines. If you do you will push the sealant into the outer pinion bearing when you install the flange or yoke. Also use red Locktite on the threads when you put the nut back on. Using a new nut is a good idea too.

The S10 drive shaft has Mec 3R u joints. To remove them you heat the yoke until the plastic squirts out the holes. The press them out.
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Old 11-08-2012, 09:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v123 View Post
I am using a Ford 8.8 rear from a 1990 Explorer in a PT Cruiser converted to RWD. The rear has a nominally 5 inch circular input flange and that diameter is about 1/2 " too large to clear the fuel cell comfortably.
I have seen pictures of flange-to- Ujoint adapters and also splined yokes that seem to be available. I suppose removing the stock flanged input and machining it to a smaller diameter and smaller bolt pattern is also possible.
I am totally unfamiliar with Ford axles and wonder if it is possible to remove the input flange and replace it without affecting the pinion depth.
Any suggestions on how to generate a little clearance will be appreciated. This will not be a high torque situation (470 ft-lbs max in low gear) and I believe a 1310 size U Joint would be big enough but perhaps a 1330 would be better .
The drive shaft I plan to shorten is from an S-10 and has the plastic retained U joints -- How do you replace them ?
I'll be grateful for any help!
And are you taking suspension movement into account? Post some pix, this sounds dangerously close...

Russ
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Old 11-08-2012, 10:18 AM
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1330 8.8 Pinion yoke... E6TZ4851A

Your gonna need a conversion joint since you using the S10 shaft.

That pinion yoke uses the 5-1204X which has the larger caps on one side Spicer don't make a conversion joint... BUT we can make one but you gonna need to buy (2) u-Joints.

Use these Spicer joint's ONLY!

5-3022X This is a 3R to 1330 conversion.. Install this in your driveline.

Buy a 5-212X.. Pull the 1.125 caps off that joint and put them on your joint you installed on your driveline.

If you don't mind using a NEAPCO joint you can buy a 2-3049 and not hassle with buying 2 joint's.

Your gonna need a 2-94-58X U-Bolt kit for that yoke also.

Follow Big gear heads instructions for changing the pinion yoke and your good.
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Old 11-08-2012, 11:59 AM
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Thanks for all the good advise and help -- I will work on getting a picture taken, Russ --
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Old 11-08-2012, 09:57 PM
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Here's a photo -- Hard to see, but the clearance between the gas tank side and the closest point on the axle is 13/16". The suspension is parallel leaf springs, but they are short (36") and robust -- At 950 pounds weight on the rear and a tire friction coefficient of 0.85 the maximun lateral load would be about 808 pounds. I am not sure how much this would move the axle sideways -- All opinions welcomed
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Old 11-09-2012, 07:47 AM
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The NHRA wouldn't be very happy with that. Is there any way to move the fuel cell away from the drive shaft? If you break a u joint you are going to scatter fuel everywhere. The Exporer rear end has a lot of pinion offset. Maybe you should have one end of the housing shortened to get the pinion centered and that would move the pinion away from the fuel cell. I know that's not a cheap or easy fix, but it might be the best thing to do.
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Old 11-09-2012, 07:57 AM
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Thanks for the suggestion, I'll balance that against pulling out the tank and narrowing it about an inch. It always something more to do!
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Old 11-09-2012, 08:21 AM
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That will make the over all width about 4 inches shorter, so that's going to affect the wheels and tires by about 2 inches. It may not be somthing that you can live with, but I'd sure try to get the drive shaft away from the fuel cell somehow.
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Old 11-09-2012, 10:59 AM
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You have convinced me! The fuel tank will be moved to a spot aft of the rear axle -- Probably where I should have put it originally
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