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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 03-24-2011, 03:58 PM
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Trying to drill out those welds and remove the tube is the wrong way to do it, and not likely to be succesful, as the tube is also press fit into the center casting. any burrs or remaining weld after drilling will prevent you from being able to pull the tube, even if you can come up with a way to pull the tube using a hydraulic cylinder(porta-power ram). Company's and guys like me who narrow housings never do it this way.

The accepted way to narrow the housing is to cut the tube a couple inches inboard of the outer axle bearing end, remove the needed amount of tube, chamfer both the end of the tube and the tube stub with the bearing housing for good weld penetration and then using an alignment jig through the housing to keep everything in alignment, weld the two pieces back together. Make sure both cut ends are square to the tube.

I have seen it done using two 6"-8" sections of 2" or 2-1/2" angle iron used a v-clamps to align the two pieces, but you have to be very careful to keep things aligned and square. I've built an alignment bar so I have never used this method.

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Last edited by ericnova72; 03-24-2011 at 04:09 PM. Reason: spelling
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 03-24-2011, 04:03 PM
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also look into 9in bearing ends.(c clip eliminator)

your probably not at risk of breaking a 31 spline axle but it sure makes it easyer to get it all back together with new axle ends.

as cleaning up the old ends will be a pain
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 03-25-2011, 07:40 AM
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thank you eric for the clarification..... Does it cost a lot for me to send the rear end somewhere and have it cut down properly. I am gonna talk to my machinist and see how confident he is in doing it this way. I wasn't sure about drilling out the welds either.

Mud bros thats a great idea but i don't think ill break those axles anytime soon. If I was making more power I would definitely consider it and thanks for the input.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 03-25-2011, 01:55 PM
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Moser charges $125 to do both sides, $85 to do one side, but shipping is going to hurt on something that heavy.

I'd think if you were to ask around and look around your area for a race fabrication shop there would have to be one within 50 miles of where you are that could set you up so you could avoid having to ship it somewhere.

Too bad you weren't closer to me, I'd could set you up for just pizza and a beer , wouldn't take an hours time on a bare housing.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 03-25-2011, 07:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72
Moser charges $125 to do both sides, $85 to do one side, but shipping is going to hurt on something that heavy.

I'd think if you were to ask around and look around your area for a race fabrication shop there would have to be one within 50 miles of where you are that could set you up so you could avoid having to ship it somewhere.

Too bad you weren't closer to me, I'd could set you up for just pizza and a beer , wouldn't take an hours time on a bare housing.
thanks eric i appreciate that.... Ill look around in my area to see if anyone can do it for me. I would like to know thats its done right and not gonna be an issue down the road.

Does anyone know of any places in Western New York where I can get this done...thanks!

Last edited by zildjian4life218; 03-25-2011 at 08:03 PM.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 03-31-2011, 02:17 PM
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Does anyone know of any places in western new york that I can have the housing cut down to the proper width? Thanks for the input... im not really too sure what to search for
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 03-31-2011, 03:02 PM
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I can recomend a few places around Syracuse. Is that too far to drive? contact me outside this post though
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 04-17-2011, 03:48 PM
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Can anyone suggest any reading material either online or through like amazon i can read up that will tell me more about how to custom fit a rearend into a car. I would really like to learn as much as i can about it so i know it will be done right the first time and lessen then chances of error. Thanks for your input so far!
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 04-17-2011, 07:39 PM
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so i just read up an article from car craft showing the alignment bar setup...http://www.carcraft.com/howto/ccrp_0.../photo_04.html

Im pretty sure i could make this very easily... i have access to my machinists shop and im sure he would love to make something like this.... we would need to machine four hubs.... two for the carrier bearings and one on each end of the axle flange.... Then get a long 1" straight bar thats about 65" long and machine all the hubs to the outside diameter of the bar and there ya go?? am i missing something?
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 04-17-2011, 07:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mud bros
also look into 9in bearing ends.(c clip eliminator)

your probably not at risk of breaking a 31 spline axle but it sure makes it easyer to get it all back together with new axle ends.

as cleaning up the old ends will be a pain
i'm going to be using an exploder 8.8 also.
and i was considering using stranges c-clip eliminator kit if i narrow it
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 04-17-2011, 08:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matts37chev
i'm going to be using an exploder 8.8 also.
Im thinking about going back down to the u pull and get all the other explorer 8.8 rear ends before everyone realizes what a great setup and deal these are!
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 04-17-2011, 08:22 PM
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that pinion offset is the only problem with them that i know of.
otherwise i think they are one of the best rearends currently available in the wrecking yards.
31 spline axles
most are posi
and alot are 3:73 ratio (mine is 3:08 or somthing like that )
what more could you want?
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 04-17-2011, 08:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matts37chev
that pinion offset is the only problem with them that i know of.
otherwise i think they are one of the best rearends currently available in the wrecking yards.
31 spline axles
most are posi
and alot are 3:73 ratio (mine is 3:08 or somthing like that )
what more could you want?
I'm gonna try going with two passenger side axles and shortening the driver side axle tube to fit..... this should get it almost dead on to the width of my current housing.... gotta get a break in the weather to get my car over to the garage where I can start taking measurements.
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 04-18-2011, 06:04 AM
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please post how well that works because that is also somthing i've been thinking of doing also, because mine is o.k. at that 59.75" width but a couple inches shorter would be way better
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 04-18-2011, 07:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matts37chev
please post how well that works because that is also somthing i've been thinking of doing also, because mine is o.k. at that 59.75" width but a couple inches shorter would be way better
Sure no problem! I will post pictures too of the setup im making... I have talked to a couple people so far about if I will need a special piece of round stock like ..http://www.mcmaster.com/#6061k218/=bxfesa and most people have said yes because normal round stock won't be as straight or will flex too much and isn't perfectly round.

I haven't had a chance to measure my the 7.5" in my gbody but im thinking its gonna be around 57-58" between the wheel mounting surfaces so hopefully doing two of the shorter passenger side axles will be perfect.... or well close enough.. im think 1/2" to 1" isnt gonna be a big deal, even if it is a whole inch shorter i don't think a 1/2" on each side will be very noticeable and if it is just put a spacer and run longer studs...

Thanks for all the replies and input so far... i will be visiting my machinist today to hopefully get some more insight on this setup... i also may end up just doing the two pieces of angle iron that eric suggested
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