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  #61 (permalink)  
Old 06-06-2011, 04:14 AM
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Just get everything tack welded or clamped in place, take a bunch of measurements all over, drop the car down with the wheels on , check if you like the look and you're good to go.

Too easy.

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  #62 (permalink)  
Old 06-06-2011, 06:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy
Just get everything tack welded or clamped in place, take a bunch of measurements all over, drop the car down with the wheels on , check if you like the look and you're good to go.

Too easy.
So not very critical? What should I set the pinion angle to? I heard g bodies like 4 degrees.
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  #63 (permalink)  
Old 06-06-2011, 08:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zildjian4life218
So not very critical? What should I set the pinion angle to? I heard g bodies like 4 degrees.

Well the axle has to be square to the frame. I already know you'll get that dead on with the intricate measuring you've already shown.

Pinion angle, refer to the Spicer guide I posted.
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  #64 (permalink)  
Old 06-06-2011, 08:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy
Well the axle has to be square to the frame. I already know you'll get that dead on with the intricate measuring you've already shown.

Pinion angle, refer to the Spicer guide I posted.
Alright thx again for all the help. What's a good tool to buy to measure the pinion angle?
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  #65 (permalink)  
Old 06-06-2011, 10:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zildjian4life218
Alright thx again for all the help. What's a good tool to buy to measure the pinion angle?
A simple magnetic dial faced protractor.


Protractor
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  #66 (permalink)  
Old 06-06-2011, 03:00 PM
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This is the stock 7.5" 10 bolt and this si where I measured the pinion angle from.. is this correct.



Looks like about 2.5 degrees....



Thanks again!
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  #67 (permalink)  
Old 06-06-2011, 04:19 PM
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That isn't a square with the pinion shaft centerline surface, don't measure from there as the 8.8 case may not be shaped the same at that point.

Measure off either the pinion seal face(if pinion gear is removed), rear cover case face, or off the flat area at the tips of the u-joint yoke where the straps bolt down to. It has to be a machined surface that is either parallel or perpendicular to the pinion gear bearing bores in the case.

NOT a cast surface, none of them are likely to be square to the pinion bore.
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  #68 (permalink)  
Old 06-06-2011, 06:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72
That isn't a square with the pinion shaft centerline surface, don't measure from there as the 8.8 case may not be shaped the same at that point.

Measure off either the pinion seal face(if pinion gear is removed), rear cover case face, or off the flat area at the tips of the u-joint yoke where the straps bolt down to. It has to be a machined surface that is either parallel or perpendicular to the pinion gear bearing bores in the case.

NOT a cast surface, none of them are likely to be square to the pinion bore.
awesome info! exactly what i was looking for. thanks eric.... im going out now to pull the cover and get the measurement....
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Old 06-07-2011, 02:01 PM
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well i went off the rear cover face



looks like about 1 to 1.5 degress.. is this correct?

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  #70 (permalink)  
Old 06-07-2011, 02:26 PM
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So now the angle of the diff and the angle of the tranny (if its a one piece shaft) must be the same.

Try to get 3 degrees or less.
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Old 06-07-2011, 03:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy
So now the angle of the diff and the angle of the tranny (if its a one piece shaft) must be the same.

Try to get 3 degrees or less.
I just measured the tailshaft of the trans and it was 3* down. So ideally I would want the pinion 3* up correct?
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  #72 (permalink)  
Old 06-07-2011, 03:40 PM
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You'll want the pinion to end up 3 up to be "equal and opposite" of the transmission while under full power , so you will want to set the pinion at rest at only about the 0-1 up reading you are getting now off the original rear, to allow for component flex and bushing flex.

If you are serious about traction, adjustable upper arms will allow fine tuning this angle to find what you chassis/engine combo prefer.
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  #73 (permalink)  
Old 06-07-2011, 03:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72
You'll want the pinion to end up 3 up to be "equal and opposite" of the transmission while under full power , so you will want to set the pinion at rest at only about the 0-1 up reading you are getting now off the original rear, to allow for component flex and bushing flex.

If you are serious about traction, adjustable upper arms will allow fine tuning this angle to find what you chassis/engine combo prefer.
Alright sweet thanks! Right now I'm boxing in the control arms but when I have extra money I wanted to do those adjustable uca.
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  #74 (permalink)  
Old 06-07-2011, 07:47 PM
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Well I am ready to tack the spring perches in place. I want to get these done first so I can get the rear end in the car centered left to right and set the weight of the car on the rear end so I can see where all the control arms are gonna end up. I am gonna keep the same pinion angle that was stock from what you said eric that way under load its about the same.

Right now I have the two rear ends setup on jack stands right next to each other.

What I was gonna do was take the 7.5 and rotate the rearend until the spring perches are level. I will then measure the angle of the pinion. I will then set the 8.8 to have the same angle. I then know that the spring perches for the 8.8 have to be level. I will then measure the distance from the axle flange where the brakes bolt up to the spring perches on the 7.5 rear end.

I got 7.5" so because the 8.8 is 1.5" wider i will add .75" to each spring perch so the spring perches on the 8.8 will be 8.25" from the axle flange....

sorry if I didn't explain this the best but im just trying to detail step by step to make sure im doing it right because this is the first time I have ever done this. Does this sound right or make any sense?

Thanks for all the input and help!
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  #75 (permalink)  
Old 06-08-2011, 03:55 AM
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Simply matching the same angle the 7.5 had makes sense as long as you had no driveline vibrations before you started this swap.

Then again, do you trust the things the factory did?
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