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  #76 (permalink)  
Old 06-08-2011, 05:09 PM
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Pretty good thread I got a 79 Bu and now you got me thinking,lol.

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  #77 (permalink)  
Old 06-08-2011, 08:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TroyBoy
Pretty good thread I got a 79 Bu and now you got me thinking,lol.
Its a great rearend but the offset might get the best of me. I gotta look at the Driveshaft tomorrow and see if it hits the tunnel.... but ill lost pics tomorrow of the rearend in place.
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  #78 (permalink)  
Old 06-30-2011, 08:26 AM
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Well the rearend is all done. Just need to finish bending the brake lines and get the driveshaft made. When the rearend was in place and mounted up I put the old driveshaft in and it wasn't hitting the floor at all. I even put the driveshaft on top of the pinion flange to account for rearend travel.

Heres the uca welded in place. I got a piece of 1/4" steel by 2" wide and put a flat piece across the top and welded two braces coming down from each side. I am also putting two pieces straight down that will bolt to the cast housing.
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  #79 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2011, 05:01 PM
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Shes sitting on all four again!!!!! Thanks again for all the help everyone! This has been such a great project to undertake. I have learned so much from doing this and have really enjoyed it... Im gonna wait till the end of the year and see how this holds up and if all is well I am going to make a couple more of these to help improve the design I came up with.. maybe throw a couple on ebay to give other people with g-bodies an affordable bolt in rear end that is easy to come across unlike the 8.5", 12 bolt and 9" rearend.

I am gonna order the drive shaft tomorrow and hopefully soon i will have some youtube videos of me beating on it around town .
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  #80 (permalink)  
Old 11-29-2011, 11:49 AM
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Do you have any pictures of the down-bars you added to bolt to the housing?
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  #81 (permalink)  
Old 11-29-2011, 12:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SparkyRnD
Do you have any pictures of the down-bars you added to bolt to the housing?
are you talking about the lower control arm mounts?
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  #82 (permalink)  
Old 11-29-2011, 12:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zildjian4life218
.....I am also putting two pieces straight down that will bolt to the cast housing.
No, was referring to the additional bracing you mentioned above, going from the UCA mount down to the housing so that it would bolt on (I assume for additional strength)
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  #83 (permalink)  
Old 11-29-2011, 12:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SparkyRnD
No, was referring to the additional bracing you mentioned above, going from the UCA mount down to the housing so that it would bolt on (I assume for additional strength)
Ah ok. Yeah I'm in class now so ill post them later when I get done for the day.
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  #84 (permalink)  
Old 11-29-2011, 12:41 PM
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I noticed that you welded the axle tubes to the center casting. Did you use nickel when you did this?
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  #85 (permalink)  
Old 11-30-2011, 07:08 AM
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Sounds like a winner. Hope its been working good.
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Old 05-18-2016, 04:40 PM
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old post i know, but i'm wondering how well it has held up. i'm thinking of doing the same thing.
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  #87 (permalink)  
Old 05-18-2016, 05:18 PM
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Today I changed ring and pinion in a G-body that had a Fox Mustang rear in it, the lower control arms are G-body parts, the uppers are aftermarket and use spherical bearings in the housing and an offset in the arm. This car got a spool and c-clip eliminators, too. The car went 6.20's in the 1/8 before with 3.73 and a Ford Tracloc, the 4.56 should get it in the 5's. Thats pretty strong for a streetable full bodied
G-body with a 6 point cage. N2O is worse than drugs.
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  #88 (permalink)  
Old 05-18-2016, 05:26 PM
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It would be better to start with a FOX or SN95 Mustang 8.8 instead of welding all of this stuff together to try and adapt it.
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  #89 (permalink)  
Old 05-18-2016, 05:31 PM
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the only real advantage is the cheapness of the explorer rear end. getting ears on top of it won't be a problem & honestly i have a heck of a lot better way of doing it. i can't find a cheap mustang rear end around here.
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  #90 (permalink)  
Old 05-26-2016, 08:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by big gear head View Post
It would be better to start with a FOX or SN95 Mustang 8.8 instead of welding all of this stuff together to try and adapt it.
If I did it again I would probably as well just get ahold of the mustang rearend. I was avoiding buying the adjustable control arms but ended up getting them anyways as I am approaching the 1.5X 60' area.

I don't have to worry about the fabricaiton and welding when I dump the clutch if I had just used the mustang rear end. Ended up getting custom axles anyways so that blew the "budget" out the window.
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