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Old 02-27-2007, 06:13 PM
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Ford 8 inch disassembly?

I just removed my Ford 8 inch after determining that it needed attention, as detailed in another thrread:

rattling/shaking after 2 minutes driving?

Anyway, I have the whole assembly removed, from wheel to wheel.

I have removed the bolts around the axle housing exposing the studs but it doesnt want to come away from the axle. I used a little coaxing with a mallet but nothing.

Am I approaching this in the wrong order? Is there an illustrated site that shows how to disassemble a Ford 8 inch (yes I did search on google)?

I removed the component in front of the axle housing to which the driveshaft bolts (pinion support?) and unless I am missing something it actually looks fine. No broken teeth etc.

I guess what I am saying is I dont know a) how to disassemble it and b) what to look for to tell if I do in fact have a problem!

Any input much appreciated!

Thanks,
Paul

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Old 02-27-2007, 06:37 PM
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you have to remove the axle shafts from the housing first (well at least slide them out a few inches)

there are 4 bolts on each backing plate that holds the axles in the housing. remove those four nuts, and tap and the backing plate with a hammer, and the axle shafts will slide out. then remove the 12 or so nuts around the pumkin and take out the center section (pumkin)

that should do it for ya
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Old 02-27-2007, 07:07 PM
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d'oh!

Thanks, I will do it tomorrow. Still not sure what I should be looking for but I suppose it is easiest to simply take photos and post them here.

Paul
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Old 02-28-2007, 03:17 PM
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OK, major compoennts have been removed.

I was kinda hoping to see something obvious like broken teeth or something but except for wear it looks fine.

Does anything in these photos jump out at you? I was a little concerned at the scoring on the front face at the top of the last photo. Is this normal?

I had rattling/rumbling noise and the car actually shuddered when moving.

Also, I have 39/14 teeth which unless I am mad gives me a 2.78 ratio. Not sure if that is good/bad? The axle is in a '29 highboy which is primarily for cruising at 35-55.

Thanks,



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Old 03-01-2007, 06:32 AM
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A39/14 is what Ford calls a 2.79 and in 8" is found in most auto Mavericks and Comets. While it is a good crusin' gear, wont allow much in the way of performance. There are lots of 8" center ('punkin's') sections available, you have do some searching. These are the OEM selections and are found in about all econo thru mid line Fords. Look at the decal on the door frame:
Open - Equalock - Ratio (Columns are in this order - the website software wont allow them as typed)
2- K- 2.75
3- L- 2.79
6- 0- 3.00
7- n/a- 3.40
9- R- 3.25
A- S- 3.50
G- n/a- 3.55
n/a- V- 3.91

To be on the safe side, count the teeth, JIC someone has changed it out.

I found a nice 3.40 once in a Pinto wagon - though the axle shafts were 4 lug and unuseable

If you have rumbles and feel twitches, you most likely have an axle bearing that has gone bad. Remove the axles, roll the bearing a couple of revolutions. It should be nice and smooth. If not, have an auto machine shop replace BOTH of them and as well you should replace both housing housing seals.

Your gear set appears fine though you now need a new pinion case gasket - these DO NOT need to be disassembled the way you have done for inspection. Just remove the entire center section and it will be obvious if a tooth is bad.

Dave
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Old 03-01-2007, 12:39 PM
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Thanks Dave.

Both bearings spin without binding although whereas one will not rock the other is very loose and I can rock it 1/8" from side to side which I assume could have been my problem?

I am no Picasso but I tried to illustrate what I mean by rocking in the image below.

Is the seal you refer to the one that sits near these bearings?

Thanks for your input!
Paul

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Old 03-01-2007, 12:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pcoghlan
Thanks Dave.

Both bearings spin without binding although whereas one will not rock the other is very loose and I can rock it 1/8" from side to side which I assume could have been my problem?

Oh yeah - should cost about $40+-/ side to replace

Is the seal you refer to the one that sits near these bearings?

Thanks for your input!
Paul
Paul - look inside the axle ends of the differential housing - at the inside end of the flare for the bearing you will find a seal. Yank it out. When you replace it, the edge of the new seal will point to the oil - that is, the differential itself. You can drive it in with a piece of PVC pipe about the same size as the seal - they usually go in fairly easily.

You may have to make your own pinion carrier gasket from standard NAPA available stock, but no big deal.

Good luck
Dave
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Old 03-01-2007, 01:10 PM
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There appears to be metal trash on the carrier itself (left lower quadrant of photo). Check for bad carrier and pinion bearings.
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Old 03-01-2007, 01:15 PM
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OK, one of the bearings has a crack across the outer case. It appears to also be missing multiple bearing balls. It only has them for 50% of the circumference!

It has bits of metal inside it too. This bearing certainly appears to be the culprit!

With the apparent need to check other bearings (KULTULZ's post) I might simply try to find a local machine shop that can take it in and replace all bearings/seals.

Paul
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Old 03-01-2007, 01:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KULTULZ
There appears to be metal trash on the carrier itself (left lower quadrant of photo). Check for bad carrier and pinion bearings.
I just looked - where?? I only see gasket material and some scuffs and dirt from the floor and from not cleaning the area before disassembly.
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Old 03-01-2007, 01:31 PM
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Here you go. As you can see, I wasnt joking.

Just got quoted 450'ish to replace all bearings and seals, sound right?

Paul

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Old 03-01-2007, 01:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pcoghlan
Here you go. As you can see, I wasnt joking.
Just got quoted 450'ish to replace all bearings and seals, sound right?
Paul
Paul
Did you check where Kultulz suggested inside the diff itself.

What you picture is what I suspected but he has seen something in the innards that I can't find.

If it wasn't so @#$% expensive to ship, I could supply you cheaply with a rebuilt 2.79 with less than 5000 miles (or a good 3.00 diff) but I no longer have any spare 8" axle shafts which it appears you really need.
Dave
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Old 03-01-2007, 02:27 PM
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Thanks Dave. The shop I spoke to said they would clean everything, replace seals and bearings and install shims (for 450 I should hope so!). With all that being done I think everything should be OK.

I dont think I need new axles, the bearings/seals should get me running again.

There is a Good Guys event coming up down here and I want the highboy running! The clock is ticking.

Paul
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Old 03-01-2007, 03:33 PM
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Well ya got almost 2 months 'til Goodguys - so you should be OK.

I'm still not positive you need more than axle bearings with as tough a diff as an 8" is though, and $450 is not just loose change under the sofa cushion for many. But with that said, and if you are satisfied with your techs skills, it can end up being cheap peace of mind. (Don't forget the axle seals and as long as everything is apart, why not install new rear wheel/brake cylinders for another $30-$40 bucks plus flush the brake lines)


Dave
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Old 03-01-2007, 04:42 PM
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Dave

I have been thinking through this a little more. I havent a clue what JUST the axles bearings and seals would cost but am guessing something like $150?

I have a compressor in the garagae and can blow through the unit to make sure it is clean and the remaining seals are good before I put it back into service.

I think replacing the brakes/cylinders is a great idea BUT I am getting little joy out of my local auto shop. They want to know what car/model/year the axle came out of. When I tell them I havent a clue as it is in a 29 rod they give up and say they cant help. I will do a little googling to see if there is a place I can look for some casting ID to answer their question. Then I can get brake shows and wheel cylinders

Not sure if (as per your username) you are of Irish extraction but I am Irish and only moved over here from Wexford 2 years ago so still feel a little like a fish out of water when trying to get auto shop people to know what I am after.

Paul
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