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Old 10-16-2007, 09:10 AM
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ford 9" 4 3/4 lug pattern

So i got a ford 9" truck rearent 5.5 5 lug rear axle off a friend of mine for free, so instead of building my 10 blt, i was planning on playing with the 9". ive been researchign how to do the 4 3/4 lig pattern and strange makes axleshafts for $300, should i go with those or redrill the stock ones? what is your oppinion, its only going to be putting 450hp max to it so it doesnt have to be any stronger then stock

thanks
dan

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Old 10-16-2007, 09:28 AM
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31 spline or 28? if they are 31 spline id say re drill them and get new studs, they will most likely hold up. if they are 28 you might consider upgrading to 31. you just have to get 31 spline side spider gears and install them in place of the 28 spliners. Yukon gear makes these or you can find them used. make sure a 31 spline axle fits into the hole in the diff first though. Trac Lock and open side gears are different so take that into consideration.
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Old 10-16-2007, 11:45 AM
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I have drilled a few pair ... without problems ...



The issue is the hole ... some axle shafts have the hole and some do not. The ones without ... drill without plugging the hole

Because your 9 inch came from a truck ... It most likely has the larger axle bearing.



You may want to find another stock axle shaft with the 5 on 4.5 pattern that will fit where the truck axle shaft was ... I have done this before also.

.
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Old 10-16-2007, 10:41 PM
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why a 4.5 instead of a 5.5 when both i will have to redrill? just wondering? because the hub sentric race is a smaller diameter?
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Old 10-17-2007, 03:38 PM
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Somewhere here is a lot of the trial and tribs I went thru with a truck 9 inch.

redrilling...If you have access to a lathe and a welder you could doit yourself. While Ican do both I didn't have the lathe available so I sent my axels in to Moser. They have to plug and redrill the holes. You really should use the long allen bolts installed from the back side. I did. I didn't realize that the truck axels are about 1/2 inch larger od than the standard ones so they don't fit the aftermarket disc brake hats. So again Ihad to go to the machine shop to have the hubs turned down.

31 spline axels can be narrowed if you go far enough. Again Moser resplined them. Are they strong enough?? I've seen them go both ways...some last forever others bust right away. Additionally the bearings are still Ford tapered rollers with no real adjustment for preload. There used to be a direct replacement sealed ball bearing but it is no longer available. Moser can cut the axel down about .030 I think for a sealed ball bearing. But this cost more too. In the end it is more cost effective to get the race axels all ready to go for about $300

I got my own kit for narrowing the rear end as well as any other common rear end. I got tired of chasing people and shop around. It cost me about what a new housing is worth.

Today I will not do used rear ends except for others. I'll go and buy a new housing center and tubes and bearing housings and assemble it myself. Buy axels ready to go.

Oh one other thing...truck housings have 3 1/4 tubes except at the outer end. This can cause problems when you add aftermarket 4 links kits that are cut for the 3 inch tubes. Some places make 3 1/4 kits but you have to ask for them.

JMHO
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Old 10-17-2007, 10:48 PM
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thanks for the info. i actually have unlimited access to a machine shop so im set for any machining work, intsead of studs you say allen heads from the back side? sounds like a good idea, i think im going to use discs, but i can turn down the outer hub i guess you would call it and im a decent welder so i can fill the old holes,

but we will see i may still just go with the strange ones, i dont have any shortening to do due to the fact its going on a full size chevy pickup

thanks for the info.

what kind of locker/posi do you guys think would be good, my frined has a truloc, or a tracloc i dont remember what it was called exactly but it was 250 bucks and its handled a 450ft/lb 390 big block burning 35" tires
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Old 10-18-2007, 12:15 AM
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I forgot to add that the allen bolts are full thread. You can get them at McMaster. Just get them the right length and TIG weld them on the back side in a couple places. Tap the axel of course.

Strange axels are fine. Moser, Currie and Mark Williams are other popular axels.
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Old 10-18-2007, 08:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the dan
why a 4.5 instead of a 5.5 when both i will have to redrill? just wondering? because the hub sentric race is a smaller diameter?
YES ...
when you have to buy brake drums ... the 4.5 ones are used on a lot more models and therefore are less expensive.
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Old 10-18-2007, 02:33 PM
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my brother has a 8.8 on his prerunnered ranger with 4.5 pattern, if i take the dementions of that hub and machine the 5.5 down to match it i should be fine with aftermarket brake kits correct?
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Old 10-18-2007, 03:22 PM
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whats the advantage to the cap screws? I found the studs to be simple drill the holes a little smaller than the O.D. of the straight knurl and drive them in with a hammer.

and you usually have to remove at least 4-5 inches from 31 spline axles to narrow them because the splines are rolled on at the factory and the axles are turned down to the pitch diameter of the spline. the rolling process presses some metal down and displaces some metal up this makes for a stronger spline than when cut.
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Old 10-18-2007, 06:29 PM
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You are right about the length. The axel is tapered so you have to get out to the od of the spline to have enough meat to cut. Moser will reduce the diameter to just a little less than the minor dia of the spline after the new spline for 3-4 inches or so then blend it in the original.

It's hard to find long studs....2-3 in so they go all the way thru the aluminum wheel and lug nut. Even steel wheel need some extra length. It's pretty easy as long as you have to plug and re-drill anyway to just tap for 1/2-20 and use a full thread Allen cap screw. Grade 8. You can use gr 8 hex caps full thread too. I just add a little tig weld to keep them from turning. Done it this way since time began. haha

I use lugs with threads all the way thru. NHRA generally requires this if you are racing.
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Old 10-18-2007, 06:40 PM
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thats pretty clever
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