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Old 04-17-2013, 07:18 PM
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S10xGN S10xGN is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by big gear head View Post
I don't set the clutches like that. I put a shim in and assemble the differential without the springs, then stick it on an axle stub in a vice and turn it. If the resistance is too high I use a thinner shim. If it isn't enough then I use a thicker shim. When the resistance is where I want it then I put the springs in and call it good enough. You can't assemble one of these as tight as you do a Eaton Posi. If you get it too tight then it will pop and growl when turning a corner.
Being as how I'm a total newb and have zero experience setting up any kind of clutch unit, will the method in the above link(s) work?


Quote:
Originally Posted by big gear head View Post
I don't understand why you used the loose fit bearings instead of putting the new bearings on to start with. There is no need to install and remove the bearings other than shimming the spacer, and you should be using your press to remove and install the pinion for that job, including removing the yoke. Yes, the preload will change when you change the bearings.

The marked pinion depth is almost always just a good place to start. It's always been off by around .003 when I tried to use it.
Don't know why I was stressing over not installing the new bearings, it was much easier than I thought. BTW, my old "slip-fit" bearings worked great as a mandrel for pressing! Just 0.001" in shims makes a big difference with the solid spacer. I ended up with a 0.456" spacer and 27 in-lbs preload (0.455" was 40# and 0.457" was 0#). I originally thought my shim pack had 3 shims, but there were really 7 total, they were stuck together pretty good! Still couldn't finish the job, as the pinion seal in my kit was too large. QP is sending me the correct seal (they are great to deal with).

Russ
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