FORD 9" Ring & Pinion - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Transmission - Rearend
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 06-02-2010, 04:13 PM
solidaxel's Avatar
Member
 

Last journal entry: Project garage complete!
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: So. Arizona
Posts: 558
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
FORD 9" Ring & Pinion

I just removed my center section from the housing and in the inspection I am finding some rust on 3 or 4 of the ring gear teeth.

Can I clean this up with ???? and pack it with Molly grease and run it slow up on stands for a while?

Is there anything else I can do to save this gear set, or am I looking at alternative?

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 06-02-2010, 04:29 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Jax Fl
Posts: 383
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 17
Thanked 4 Times in 2 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by solidaxel
I just removed my center section from the housing and in the inspection I am finding some rust on 3 or 4 of the ring gear teeth.

Can I clean this up with ???? and pack it with Molly grease and run it slow up on stands for a while?

Is there anything else I can do to save this gear set, or am I looking at alternative?
That rear axle must have set for a while. I have seen this a lot where the axle sets and the oil settles in the bottom and runs off of the teeth that are above the oil level line. Moisture then causes the uncovered teeth to rust. Unless you're running some serious horsepower I wouldn't worry about it. I would however worry about the bearings for if there is rust on the teeth then there is more than most likely rust on the bearings. If so replace the bearings assemble the rear axle run it for a month or so and change the fluid. You could spend a little time removing the rust that is on the teeth with a wire wheel but don't get carried away with it. The rust that is on the gears will remove itself when ran.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 06-02-2010, 06:19 PM
ericnova72's Avatar
More for Less Racer
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: S.W. Lower Michigan
Age: 48
Posts: 9,792
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 48
Thanked 599 Times in 537 Posts
If that is all the rust there is, cover things up so you don't blow junk into the spider gears or bearings and clean the teeth off with a wire wheel. If you just run it the gears will knock the rust off after a bit, but iron oxide (rust) is as gritty as sandpaper, you don't want it dispersed in the oil to the bearings.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 06-02-2010, 06:35 PM
65ELCMO's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Tucson,AZ
Posts: 189
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
just wire brush it, wash it out with some brake kleen, put some grease on the gears and install it. Use some average oil and drain it after 500/1000 miles and put in some good oil.
Don't worry, be happy
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 06-02-2010, 07:37 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 292
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
If steel wool will clean it with no pitting, you're good. If the rust is caked on and leaves pits it may make noise. No harm in cleaning it up and trying it out as if it works, you're good. If not, what have you lost? Time?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 06-02-2010, 08:42 PM
big gear head's Avatar
High Performance Rear Ends
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Central City, KY
Posts: 2,151
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 15
Thanked 509 Times in 432 Posts
I agree with KMatch, clean it up with steel wool, a wire brush or anything and then give it a try. If the gears have rust on them then there is a chance that some of the bearings might also have rust on them. I've seen this a lot.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 06-02-2010, 11:00 PM
solidaxel's Avatar
Member
 

Last journal entry: Project garage complete!
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: So. Arizona
Posts: 558
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Kemp
That rear axle must have set for a while. I have seen this a lot where the axle sets and the oil settles in the bottom and runs off of the teeth that are above the oil level line. Moisture then causes the uncovered teeth to rust. Unless you're running some serious horsepower I wouldn't worry about it. I would however worry about the bearings for if there is rust on the teeth then there is more than most likely rust on the bearings. If so replace the bearings assemble the rear axle run it for a month or so and change the fluid. You could spend a little time removing the rust that is on the teeth with a wire wheel but don't get carried away with it. The rust that is on the gears will remove itself when ran.

Well that sounds like just what I will do!!!!!

Thanks

Like was said the only thing I have invested is a little time and a gasket and some 90W
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2010, 12:32 AM
solidaxel's Avatar
Member
 

Last journal entry: Project garage complete!
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: So. Arizona
Posts: 558
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Well that is complete, but before I install the rear end I checked the back lash and it had .032 .
The last one I set up was a 62 Chevy and if I remember it was to have between .006 and .009 of backlash, is the Ford the same?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2010, 12:45 PM
cobalt327's Avatar
WFO
 
Last wiki edit: Intake manifold
Last journal entry: 1980 Malibu Wagon
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Atlanta
Age: 60
Posts: 5,037
Wiki Edits: 1616

Thanks: 128
Thanked 598 Times in 547 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by solidaxel
Well that is complete, but before I install the rear end I checked the back lash and it had .032 .
The last one I set up was a 62 Chevy and if I remember it was to have between .006 and .009 of backlash, is the Ford the same?
You'd like to see the backlash between 0.008"- 0.012". More is often seen on used diffs, but 0.032" is excessive, regardless.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2010, 12:48 PM
big gear head's Avatar
High Performance Rear Ends
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Central City, KY
Posts: 2,151
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 15
Thanked 509 Times in 432 Posts
The pinion might be moving slightly when you are checking the backlash. Be sure that the pinion can not move at all when doing this. Even if the pinion only moves a few thousandths this will throw off the backlash reading by quite a bit. You need to have .008 to .012 backlash.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2010, 12:58 PM
solidaxel's Avatar
Member
 

Last journal entry: Project garage complete!
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: So. Arizona
Posts: 558
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Thanks for the information!

I set it at .008 rechecked it twice and put some Mystic grease on the ring gear and installed it.

When I get the driveshaft installed I will run it on jack stands for 15-20 min, with fresh 90W and listen to it.

I won't be able to tell until I get a load on it but that is all I have invested so far
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 06-07-2010, 05:08 PM
cranky1's Avatar
Just stuck
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Pasagetdowndena, TX
Age: 63
Posts: 434
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 14
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I've run plenty of rusty gears with no problem and some ended up having pits. So long at they still have plenty of base metal they will be fine and if pitted....the pits will only hold oil. Ran one set that looked so bad that I had my doubts but even those ran quiet and for a long time in a street car.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Transmission - Rearend posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Reverse Rotation Ring & pinion Arrowhead Transmission - Rearend 11 12-24-2007 06:20 PM
Ring & Pinion Tooth Contact Pattern GM 10-Bolt leejoy Transmission - Rearend 52 12-15-2006 07:26 PM
Ring & Pinion Setup - GM 10-Bolt Help leejoy Transmission - Rearend 3 11-21-2006 08:02 PM
Ford C7AW E 9" Rebuild Help and Disc Brake Questions Mustangsaly Transmission - Rearend 12 11-06-2005 01:44 AM
Explorer Disc Bbrakes on a 9" Ford Rear End Mustangsaly Suspension - Brakes - Steering 2 10-31-2005 05:18 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:38 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.