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Old 04-24-2013, 10:33 AM
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Ford 9 Trac Loc bolts and carrier bearings

I'm in the process of setting up my rear and ran into a snag. I do not know the year of the 9" and its sitting under a 64 Skylark with a 455 so its a mix and match vehicle. The rear end has 28 spline axles and what appeared to be the orignal diff with a mini spool in space. The ring gear bolts for this set up were the larger diameter bolts and it looks like with the new Trac loc I need a bolt with smaller head so it fits inside the recessed area as well as they need to be longer to catch the ring gear. Are there local places I can grab these type of bolts (Ace, Oreilly's, etc) instead of having to order them from summit and waiting?

With the old set up as well the bearings and races when cross referenced matched the 2.891 diameter however they didn't seem to the part number listed for fords bearings. When ordering the new Track LocI ordered the P/N for fords 2.891 bearings and races and I can see a difference between the two when comparing them. Since I apparently have the correct match up now I assume I should have no issues but want to make sure.

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Old 04-24-2013, 10:54 AM
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7/16 x 1 1/4 long Grade 8

Your Brgs should be LM102949 & LM102910 if your case is a 2.89.
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Old 04-24-2013, 11:07 AM
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Thanks for the fast response, the new bearing I ordered are indeed the P/N's listed above but the old ones were listed as something else however still said they were 2.891 in size. I believe now I got the right ones but just wanted to verify I wasn't missing a key aspect somewhere.

As for the bolts, will any Grade 8 work? I believe Ace has many G8 bolts that I can match up to the correct size but the head of the bolt is what I was worrying about as well.

Thanks again!
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Old 04-24-2013, 01:33 PM
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Yes.. With a grade 8 washer. Dont forget to clean the threads and use red locktight on the bolts.
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Old 04-24-2013, 03:58 PM
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I came across the right size bolts at ACE that are Grade 8, however they are a copper color compared to the orignal black ones that were in the previous unit. Is there a difference between the two and the original didn't have washers, do the washers serve a main purpose? If these will work i'll grab them today after work as it will only set me back $12 for everything.
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Old 04-24-2013, 05:09 PM
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The Trac Lock uses a special .030 thick heat treated washer under the head of the bolt. Thicker washers can cause the bolt heads to contact the inside of the case. These washers also have a smaller outside diameter than comon washers so that they will fit in the counter bore for the bolt. These washers are available from Randy's Ring & Pinion. I would not assemble it without the washers. You will likely find all of your ring gear bolts loose in a few hundred miles. You might want to read this. "clunk clunk" and there went my rearend - NastyZ28.com
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Old 04-24-2013, 05:27 PM
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I was hoping to find what I needed locally if possible but it looks like I may need to order a complete set. Would a Ford Dealer carry this stuff by chance?

Is there a difference between the grade 8 copper looking bolts and the black ones?
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Old 04-24-2013, 07:09 PM
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Ford discontinued these parts many years ago. I use to get them from Ford, but Randy's is the only place that I know of that still has them.
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Old 04-24-2013, 10:12 PM
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Thanks for the info, looks like I am going to have to wait it out again for parts. I noticed something else today when looking at my new trac loc and it seems the bolt holes are a little bigger in diameter that what was in the stock unit. The old 7/16 bolts even though to short had a lot more play in the bolt holes they go through than the old unit. Is this usual and would the new longer bolts be thicker at the top where it goes through the hat first before contacting the ring gear?
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Old 04-25-2013, 07:07 AM
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I had problems with mine too. For some stupid reason some of the new Trac Locks have the holes drilled for 1/2 inch bolts. Even though I used red Locktite and the washers with mine the bolts still came loose in less than 600 miles. That is why mine is sitting on a shelf in the box and the old Detroit Locker is back in the car.
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Old 04-25-2013, 10:37 AM
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I ordered new bolts and washers from currie since they are in Cali and I should have them by tomorrow night hopefully. The bolts look to be thicker at the top area where they go through the hat so hopefully that takes up some of the slack but will just have to see what happens. A tru track was originally planned but funding didn't allow it after a few issues came up. I hope this trac loc works out or its back to the mini spool
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Old 05-02-2013, 11:01 PM
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Got everything put together and am now checking the pattern after backlash has been set. I used the same gearing that was in there previously and have a few questions. Backlash is at .09 but i'm not sure I am getting the pattern properly. I read you need to have resistance when running the pattern so it acts as driving conditions but I can't seem to really provide much resistance since I am not using a stand and the 3rd member is basically free standing. The pattern I got trying to add resistance isn't centered directly between the teeth however going off of diagrams it says I am ok. The pattern is coming in directly off the Toe in the center and moving to about half way into the teeth on both coast and drive. How can I add more resistance and how much would it change the pattern in most cases?

Since this was the same gears as previous I did not mess with the pinion depth but am wondering if I might need to so I can center the pattern more. Although my pattern is ok according to my diagram I'm just not sure I am comfortable with it. Should I tighten backlash up some more since the gears are used or just roll with what I have and see where it takes me?
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Old 05-03-2013, 07:30 AM
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If you have an engine stand the use it to hold the case. I turn it upside down and use the 2 holes in the top and bolt it to the top arms of the stand. This works pretty well and it holds it so that you can work on both sides of the case.

If you did not replace the pinion bearings then you don't have much resistance. With new bearings the preload is set to about 20 inch pounds. This is plenty of resistance when turning the ring gear to check the pattern. I always turn the ring gear against the pinion gear, not the other way around. This gives a more clear pattern and it's easier to read.

With used gears you are probably not going to get a pattern that looks anything like what it should. Used gears have wear on them and the contact area is where the wear will be. The coast side has much less wear, so it should be the side that you are looking at the most. Take pictures and post them here for us to look at and we can help you with the set up.
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Old 05-03-2013, 10:30 AM
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I will snap some shots later today of the pattern and see what you think. I'm using that Prussian Blue stuff and it seems to make it hard to really read. I tried to take pics last night but got to much glare off the compound so I couldn't post it.

With using the same gears as prior where should backlash sit? Are tighter tollerances expected? I didn't get to read it prior to pulling the old unit out which I know I should have.
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Old 05-03-2013, 02:18 PM
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That blue stuff is impossible to read. See if your local GM dealer has some of the yellow marking compound. They usually have it in a small tube.

Used gears will run a little looser than new. I usually go for about .009 to .011 on a used gear and see how it looks. It would have been better if you had checked it before disassembly.
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