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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 08-26-2007, 11:00 AM
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Well, I'll be switched....I guess even an OLD dog can learn new tricks
Thanks for the correction..
JA

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 08-26-2007, 11:03 AM
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No prob, Johnnya, we're all here to learn something

leldai73- did you set your carrier bearing preload?

IIRC there are several ways to measure that, one is case spread, another is the amount of torque required to rotate the assembled R&P in the case, after pinion preload is set.

Check out this PDF from auburn gear. Check page 10 and 11.

http://www.auburngear.com/aftermarke...structions.pdf


(I knew I should have brought one of those manuals home with me...)

It takes alot to kill a set of bearings on the bench, but you never know.

A whine that develops over a short period time and gets worse can't be good.

Later, mikey
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Last edited by powerrodsmike; 08-26-2007 at 11:08 AM.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 08-26-2007, 11:29 AM
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thanks for the prompt response..i didnt exactly set the pre load so to speak..i took the i'll just tighten it down some approach, i didnt realze it was something i should measure...kind of a duh now i guess. looks like the third member is comin out. good thing its sunday.
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Old 08-26-2007, 11:36 AM
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When you check the rotational torque, you are pulling the axles, yes? The torque requirement is while turning the R&P only.
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Old 08-26-2007, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 68NovaSS
When you check the rotational torque, you are pulling the axles, yes? The torque requirement is while turning the R&P only.

rotational check for pinion gear only.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 08-26-2007, 11:48 AM
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Oops, good catch Crosley. I was thinking about his mention of checking the rotation with the elbow torque wrench, thinking the axles might wtill be in place. Never though about the R&P & differential drag.

Thanks!
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Old 08-26-2007, 03:50 PM
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well, took the third member out, the back lash is still around 8 or 9 but the pattern way off, inside 1/4 of the tooth is all its hitting. does it make any sense that something could have moved that much and and not effect the back lash but still affected the mesh so significantly.
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Old 08-27-2007, 07:33 AM
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Well, I drained the 80W-90 and put in Lucas 85W-140 and the whine has dissipated significantly to where I am just going to drive the bajesus out of it and call it good.

I really appreciate all the help out there. I knew I could rely on the help of this board to help me through this!!


leldai73. well, took the third member out, the back lash is still around 8 or 9 but the pattern way off, inside 1/4 of the tooth is all its hitting. does it make any sense that something could have moved that much and and not effect the back lash but still affected the mesh so significantly.

In my limited but recent experience, I would say yes it does make sense as your side adjuster nuts effects the backlash. Your side adjuster nuts hadn't moved and thus your backlash hadn't changed. The wear pattern is a result of the pinion depth. I would guess it comes from when you changed the yolk and then put in the new crush sleeve.

I would suggest pulling the pinion support, pulling the pinion down and replacing the crush sleeve with a solid spacer. You can get one from Speeday at this link. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/3765...pacer-Kit.html

You Experienced guys will need to validate this but here is what I did: I then, with the pinion bare, polished the bearing surface with fine Emory cloth until I was able to get the bearings on and off with relative ease. Meaning, it was still a press fit but it was easy to press on and pull off. Measure your crush sleeve, as a starting point, and then reassemble with the solid spacer and shims. Reassemble the pinion, without the pinion seal, and run it down on the high side of your Impact. (I did this until I heard the impact bottoming out.) Now test the Rotational force on the bearings with an inch lbs wrench. (For new bearings 20-30ish lbs. For used 8-14.) If your preload is too high add a shim, if it is too low, take one out.

I had spend about an hour, putting it together, testing, pulling it apart and make changes to the shims until I got it perfect. Then I put a new pinion seal on, new pinion nut, ran her down, tested the force again and installed into the housing.
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Old 08-27-2007, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsmith1279
Measure your crush sleeve, as a starting point, and then reassemble with the solid spacer and shims. Reassemble the pinion, without the pinion seal, and run it down on the high side of your Impact. (I did this until I heard the impact bottoming out.) Now test the Rotational force on the bearings with an inch lbs wrench. (For new bearings 20-30ish lbs. For used 8-14.) If your preload is too high add a shim, if it is too low, take one out.

I had spend about an hour, putting it together, testing, pulling it apart and make changes to the shims until I got it perfect. Then I put a new pinion seal on, new pinion nut, ran her down, tested the force again and installed into the housing.
So based on how you assembled it with a solid sleeve, can I assume the purpose of the crush type sleeve is for setting pinion bearing preload? And that the pinion depth is set with the shims only and not affected by the sleeve?
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Old 08-27-2007, 04:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGSKY
So based on how you assembled it with a solid sleeve, can I assume the purpose of the crush type sleeve is for setting pinion bearing preload? And that the pinion depth is set with the shims only and not affected by the sleeve?
Yes and No. My shim kit came with a .010, (2) .012, .015 and .020 shims. I needed a .017 for it to be where I needed it. Thus I sanded the sleeve on emory cloth until I got it down a few thousandths and went from there.
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