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Old 03-09-2005, 03:45 PM
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Ford bigblock cam/lifter question

Question for you guys. I have a '72 429 and just swapped the crappy d2ve heads out for a set of d0ves. I noticed the rockers and push rods were different, so I used all the hardware that came with the heads. When I originally built this motor I installed an after market Comp cam an lifter kit in it. Does anyone know if the lifters in the later model motor the same as earlier one? I torqued the rockers down according to what the Children's manual says, but they seem real tight.(the push rods, that is) Any thoughts on this?

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Old 03-09-2005, 06:36 PM
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Uplifting

All the SBF, Cleveland, Midland, and Lima blocks use the same lifters, regardless of year. Only exception is with the Roller lifters. So you dont have to worry about your lifters.
It may well be that you have adjustable rocker arms, and could be a hair tight. If you do have adjustables, the best way to adjust them is with the engine runnning. Starting with the first valve, loosen the rocker arm til it starts chattering, slowly tighten til it stops, then give 1/4 turn more.
I advise only doing one bank at a time. Get you a strip of cardboard about 4 inches tall, and long enough to fit around the valve springs, just inside the rocker cover rail. This will if not eliminate, it will drastically reduce the oil coming out of the pushrods soaking everything in sight.
I am curious about how you set the rocker arms in the first place.
The proper method is to put the cylinder at top dead center on the compression stroke, tighten down the rocker arm til the pushrod will no longer depress into the lifter, then back off 1-2 turns. An alternative method which I have used is with a feeler gage. set at .050",between the rocker arm and the valve tip. run the rocker arm nut down til the push rod stops depressing. You will want to keep your hand on the feeler gauge to be sure the valve isnt starting to open as you tighten the nut.
If you have positive stop rocker arms, IE bottle necked rocker arm studs or fulcrum mounted rocker arms. You run into a little bit of a wall here. Which does bring up a questoin, have you had the heads milled down any?
If so, and you have posi stop rocker arms, then for the fulcrum type, you will need to get a spacer kit and use the proper spacer to compensate for the amount you have taken off the head.
If you have posi stop studs, then you will need to get either pushrods that are shortened the same amount as your heads have been cut or else convert over to adjustable nuts on your rockers.
This is how you make your posi stops adjustable.
Get you 16- 5/16ths posi locking nuts, and at least 32- 3/8ths washers. Drop the washer on top of the rocker arm ball and then tighten the new self locking nuts as described in the the part about adjustable rocker arms.I dont recommend using the self locking nuts with the nylon ring in the top, but the self locking nuts that are slightly out of round. These are evident by looking down through the threads as they will be slightly oval rather than round.
An alternative is to use the stock nuts and double nut them, with a conventional 5/16ths nut,or self locking nut.
Once you have set your valve train cold, then go back and reset it while the engine is running.
Both Crane and Comp Cams make a conversion kit for the stud mounted Posi stop rocker arms to convert them, and they run somewhere in the neighborhood of $20. This also includes a specially designed washer that it tapered on the inside to fit down over the bottle neck.

Last edited by Max Keith; 03-09-2005 at 06:58 PM.
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Old 03-09-2005, 08:04 PM
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Thanx for the info. I don't know too much about the motor they came from. I pulled them off a car in the junkyard and took everything I could, ie; rockers and pushrods. The heads have studs in them, with 1/2 balls for pivots. They have locknuts on them as well. The heads I took off had the positive stop rocker that you desribed. According to Children's, you torque the nuts to 18ft lbs while the cylider is on it's compression stroke. This is what I did. The motor is going into an '88 Mustang and the clearances are soooo tight, I don't think I can get the vc's off while it's in the car. Do you think the feeler gauge method would be best?
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Old 03-09-2005, 11:17 PM
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Valve train

That is the problem, you torqued self locking nuts to posi stop specks. At least you dont have to convert over to adjusting nuts. Just go back through the adjusting the rockers using either method I described and then reset them while its running. Just noticed that what you said about the tight fit with the rockers. I would go with the feeler gage way in your situation. Hope you can get the covers off. I take it the engine is in the car?
Dont be surprised if your lifters rattle a little when you first start it, but that shouldnt last more than a few seconds, til they build good oil pressure in them.
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Old 03-10-2005, 01:07 AM
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DOVE-C heads have positive stop. Only the CJ/SCJ had adjustible rocker arms.

There is also a deck height difference between a 70 and 72 block, so therefore you have to perform the valve lash procedure as outlined in the service manual. Actual valve lash is adjusted by either oversize or undersize pushrods.
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