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Old 03-02-2002, 12:05 PM
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Ford Bronco 2 v6 2.9L - No SPARK

RE:Ford Bronco 2 v6 2.9L

Hi My hubby is having troubles. He can turn the motor over but it just will not start. He checked for spark and there is no spark so he replaced the module and coil and it still will not start. Any suggestions of what this could be?? The motor was rebuilt and only has 12,000 miles on it or so.

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Old 03-02-2002, 02:02 PM
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debbie,

only thing i can think of is distributor being off 180deg. If engine was rebuilt, maybe dist. wasn't installed properly.

JB
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Old 03-02-2002, 02:37 PM
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Check for voltage at module and coil, if none is present then you have a wireing problem, Have you checked the fuses, some vehicles have a fuse for ignition. It is not your distributer being 180 out like Johnny says, because you would still have spark, just at the wrong time. Check your power source to the module and coil.
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Old 03-02-2002, 03:34 PM
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The problem may be deeper in the distributor, the pick up coil may be bad. If you are getting no fire at all, it's a good chance that is the problem. In order to change it, you have to remove the distributor from the engine, knock out the roll pin in the bottom of the distributor that holds the gear onto the bottom of the distruibutor, and remove the "inside" part of the distributor, the part that the rotary cap screws on to. Once the inside is separated from the out side housing, you can replace the pick up coil. Then put everything back in the order which you removed it. If you have any more questions, I'll try to explain in more detail.PACO
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Old 03-02-2002, 03:52 PM
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I must back up on my answer to your question about spark...failed to read that it was a FORD that you were dealing with....what I suggested would work on a GM product, not too sure about a Ford, will ahve to let someone else anwer to see if it works the same on the Ford ignition as on the GM ignition...sorry about that.....PACO
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Old 03-02-2002, 04:32 PM
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Paco is right it could be the pick-up coil I just did not think about that, it is hard to trouble shoot from a computer and not being able to look at it, makes it hard to remember things. I am not sure on the Ford but it should be similar, however if you remove your distributer mark its orientation with the engine block and also mark where the rotor is pointing so you can put it back like it came out and be close to being in time.
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Old 03-03-2002, 08:12 AM
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could deffinately be a bad pick-up in the distributor, a rebuilt isn't that expensive and easy to drop in, you really should have a wiring schematic to make sure you have power where you should, it could even be something remote like a bad ignition switch, on a Ford the ignition switch supplies power to a lot of things, not sure about your application but some Fords also use a power relay(looks like a module)usually mounted to the radiator support, a Hayes or Chilton manual would probably have your ignition system wiring

[ March 03, 2002: Message edited by: dmorris1200 ]</p>
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Old 03-03-2002, 10:57 AM
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first thing i'd do is take the module off the distribtor,which takes a special tool you can buy at auto-zone or o'reily's cheap,take the module off and take it to aoto-zone and have them check it.
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Old 03-03-2002, 10:58 AM
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first thing i'd do is take the module off the distribtor,which takes a special tool you can buy at auto-zone or o'reily's cheap,take the module off and take it to aoto-zone and have them check it.
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Old 04-23-2002, 09:25 AM
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try looking at the fusible link right behind the battery.if that looks fine than check the inertia switch located in the truck on the firewall near the passengers feet.

the inertia switch will shut off the fuel and spark during an accident or rollover to prevent fire.

Had this similar problem and it was the fusible link 15 min fix.
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Old 04-23-2002, 01:07 PM
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I used to have a 89 ranger 2.9 I had a regular problem, not running. What my problem was on rangers and bronco's thers a emergency fuel shut off switch located up under floorboards.(My friend had big feet 12's or bigger and when he got in my truck he kicked this fuel shut-off switch, No run no start until I would reset switch.Not that this is your situation but I always try the easiest things first.When did it last run? what changed?On mine everything fine till Ron got in, then it died. wouldn't start.Found this out by accident, switch needs to be pushed in its orange in color, just above pass. feet would be,above toes.
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Old 04-23-2002, 03:53 PM
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The Ford TFI module in the distributor in these trucks look like a curved rectangular chunk of silicone inside the distributor. This rubber actually is a electronically controlled pickup for varying timing, if it is discolored (it is supposed to be white) brown or black it is bad. Have your hubby look to see what color it is.

This is a very common problem with the Ford EEC-IV TFI ignition system. This system is common to many models of late model Fords and when they fail usually the computer will go into "limp home mode" and lock timing at 10 degrees, when they fry completely the car will not start due to computer not knowing where TDC is.
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Old 10-17-2003, 09:07 PM
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I have an 89 Bronco 2 XLT 2WD with the same problem. It was wrecked on the passenger side front of fender/passenger side front bumper. After doing some body work and replacing the battery tray, alternator, radiator, and a new fan, I can't get the truck to start. I previously owned an 88 bronco 2 with a busted tranny, so I used it for parts. I have checked the alternator, replaced the ingition coil, checked the inertia switch, and I am now considering trying to replace the ignition coil. I have checked my wiring with a chilton manual several times and am ceartian all my wiring is in order. I am waiting to see if an ignition coil will cure the problem before I attempt to dismantle the distributor to check the pick up coil as I am just a novice mechanic working on a budget. Anymore post on the subject would be greatly appreciated. I have already got some ideas from here that I did not think of. If I have any luck I will be sure to keep the post up, thanks everyone for your help and ideas.
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Old 09-17-2004, 09:51 AM
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2.9 L Ford no Spark

Suggestion: I had the same problem. Found that the pickup module in the distrubutor was not functioning. If you played with it while someone was trying to start it it would start. Run for a while then shut down again. Tried the procedure again & this appeared to be the problem. Either replace the pickup module in the distributor(tricky) or buy a new/used distributor.
Burt....Hope this helps.
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Old 06-10-2009, 12:15 AM
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2.9l revisted

I have a 1988 ford ranger with a 2.9l v6. a few days ago, driving to work, i stopped to buy a pack of smokes, and on my way out of the lot, the engine died quietly. started it back up with no problems and proceeded on my way. ever since then i have had a continuing problem with her running very rough at idle and having close to no power when accelerating. here is the question, as i stated it is running rough at a normal take off and idle, gurring acceleration and cruising it is also very rough, however when you get on it, she comes to life and runs fine, until you ease up and try to cruise. she acts as if she has no fire, but this is misleading as it does have great power at 3200+ rpm. i thought it may have been a fouled plug(s) so i replaced them, and while i was at it, the wires, cap, rotor, and ran an octane booster. this did nothing to help. i have noticed durring the "limp" acceleration and cruising, it billows black smoke like a chemical fire, until you gun it and the smoke stops. i know this is a fire issue, but i dont know where to go from here, if it were a bad ignition coil, wouldnt the problem exsist durring the entire rpm range? i am at a loss and do not want to go the route of buy everything and hope for the best. any advise would be greatly appreciated.
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