Ford engine questions. Small block Ford - Page 3 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #31 (permalink)  
Old 12-05-2012, 10:10 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 9
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Although engine dyno's and chassis dyno's are on the expensive side they are the ultimate diagnostic tool.
An engine dyno is great to break an engine in and also get that inital tune before you drop it in the car for the real world test.
The motor I just refreshened, a 408ci windsor started out on the engine dyno with an easy break-in using only the outer valve springs and keeping it under 5000rpm..............after putting the springs back to normal we made 12 more pulls to finalize AFR/carb jetting/timing and plug selection and gap. The water temperature was even changed from 170/180/190/200 to see what differences it made. In the end I was pleased with 650HP at 6800 and 542lbft at 5700.
The poor mans dyno I use are a Lambda meter and vacuum gauge......a leak-down unit is also helpful after the motor has been warmed.

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #32 (permalink)  
Old 12-05-2012, 10:32 PM
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: studebaker m5
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 82
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 4 Times in 3 Posts
Ive used those as well for a poor mans dyno..but i got an idea to use the hand held smog tester as way simply to tell me if the car was running rich or lean..it wasnt exact as the meter was designed for modern cars in mind..but it did well.the next motor im building for the falcon i will actually do my homework and spend the extra money for components that are all 'matched' I built the old 289 when i was 21 or 22 and didnt have much money.So i made the most of what i had on hand or what i could scrounge from a junkyard.I have another 289 that im going to have somebody else assemble the rotating assembly and fit everything.The heads i will use?..dont know yet.Except they will be aluminum,and i will convert the 289 to roller cam/roller rockers..less friction means a tiny bit more power,a little less heat.I would like to use an AOD with a 9in rear axle and disc brakes.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #33 (permalink)  
Old 12-05-2012, 11:05 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 9
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Here is a picture of my motor on the engine dyno a couple of months ago.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	dyno 002.JPG
Views:	62
Size:	1.70 MB
ID:	69612  
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #34 (permalink)  
Old 12-06-2012, 07:39 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 31
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
You aren't gonna be able to spin that roller set up as high like you could with that flat tappet but it is more street friendly. It's a magnetic I believe that's what he said its gonna cost a pretty penny is all I know haha
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #35 (permalink)  
Old 12-11-2012, 04:04 PM
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: studebaker m5
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 82
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 4 Times in 3 Posts
I dont know for sure,But those later 5.0 motors wind up higher than early 302's head improvements and roller cams from the factory did alot to get the rpm range higher on the ford small block.An early 289/302 wasnt much good beyond 4,500rpm..not without work.Not to mention the choices of cams these days with a roller cam.the only other solution would be is a solid lifter cam,Which i doubt is absolutley needed for street use.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Engine posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Small block ford genewa1 Hotrodding Basics 10 12-06-2012 03:20 PM
small block ford petes32 Engine 1 01-13-2012 03:52 PM
1934 Ford transmission with1948 Ford truck engine clutch questions ppetrano Transmission - Rearend 1 05-20-2011 11:02 AM
ford small block in 48 ford pu what headers hemivolvo Engine 0 07-20-2007 04:02 PM
Small Block Ford ? FalconDaman Engine 5 01-13-2004 07:42 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:25 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.