[SuperSport]

Hey guys,
I have a three part question.
First is there any suggestions to removing the plug from the block? It does not seem to budge. After almost stripping the inner square part of the plug I decided to give it a go with some channel locks. No chance either. I want to put the temp sender in the original location.

Second, I am using a hayes clutch kit in a lakewood bellhousing. I measured the 4.5" from the engine saver plate to the pivot ball and here is the play in the fork. Does this seem right?

Third, Guy at Napa sold me a rear seal. They don't look the same. Will this be o.k. before I replace the on in the trans now? Any install tips? Sealant or no?

Thanks in advance. SS.

350 4 speed saginaw.mpg - YouTube

350 4 speed saginaw.mpg - YouTube

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[killeratrod]

well i can help with the first one ,Did you try a little heat on it? the other 2 i wiil leave for the techs!

[T-bucket23]

For the first one heat and cool it a few times and it sould come out. Also some Kroil or PB blaster may help. Most likely it is just rusted.
The movement in the fork could be ok as long as you can adjust the linkage so there is still some free play and it disengages. It is tough to see the seal. If you clean the old one off there will be a number on teh steel part that you could cross reference.

[SuperSport]

Thanks guys when you say heat, heat only the plug or the block around the plug?
Also, when I attempt to unscrew the plug should the plug be hot or wait till it has cooled off?

I really appreciate the help.

[T-bucket23]

Originally Posted by SuperSport

Thanks guys when you say heat, heat only the plug or the block around the plug?
Also, when I attempt to unscrew the plug should the plug be hot or wait till it has cooled off?

I really appreciate the help.

I would heat the plug and cool it with a wet rag or a spray bottle. If you do this a few times it will almost always loosen it. Sometime taping on it will also help. You need to be careful if you try to remove it while hot as it will be softer when hot and may strip out worse. If you have a welder you could sacrifice a short extension and weld it into the plug for a better grip.

usually the heat and cool will resolve it.

[cobalt327]

Originally Posted by SuperSport

First is there any suggestions to removing the plug from the block?

Strange how questions sometimes run in streaks: plug on heads

[S10xGN]

Originally Posted by killeratrod

well i can help with the first one ,Did you try a little heat on it? the other 2 i wiil leave for the techs!

Originally Posted by T-bucket23

For the first one heat and cool it a few times and it sould come out. Also some Kroil or PB blaster may help. Most likely it is just rusted.
The movement in the fork could be ok as long as you can adjust the linkage so there is still some free play and it disengages. It is tough to see the seal. If you clean the old one off there will be a number on teh steel part that you could cross reference.

Heat! The PASS side rear axle (bearing surface) in my son's Crown Vic ate itself up while on vacation. We stopped at a full service garage and wanted them to top off the fluid that had spewed past the axle seal. The mechanics worked on it for a half hour before telling us the plug wouldn't budge. After renting a trailer and towing it 450 miles home, 2 minutes with a propane torch and the fill plug backed out easily.

Russ

[SuperSport]

Guys, I had one of those yellow propane torches from home depot and that did not do anything. I finally welded a 3/4" nut to what little remained of the plug and grabbed the impact gun and she fought me but she finally came out. I think the torch I was using was not hot enough.

[T-bucket23]

Originally Posted by SuperSport

Guys, I had one of those yellow propane torches from home depot and that did not do anything. I finally welded a 3/4" nut to what little remained of the plug and grabbed the impact gun and she fought me but she finally came out. I think the torch I was using was not hot enough.

Glad you got it out.