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#1
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forming metal
Hey everyone
I am patching the fenders on my '76 trans am and i am using 20 guage sheet metal to patch it. In the areas im patching, I am having trouble forming the metal to curve like it does on the fender. I was thinking of buying a vice so that i could hold the panel and bend it. I was using a heel dolly and hammer, but it is hard to form the metal this way. Do you guys think i need a vice? or any suggestions on how to form the metal? |
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#3
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re: forming metal
the thing is i dont know how to form the metal, and im not sure if using a vice to hold the metal, or use the vice to hold the dolly would be the correct way to get the curve on the metal piece. I was wondering if there was an easier way to put a curve in metal
thanks all Ben |
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#4
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re: forming metal
Hi Ben,
I see you are in Illinois. So am I. Robinson, to be more specific, which is about 45 miles east of Effingham. You are welcome to bring your part to my shop and I'll help you make the part you need. I have all the necessary tools to do the job. AK steel is for deep drawn, stamped parts, which is not needed when shaping panels by hand methods. 19ga. is correct though. Ben, give me a call. Randy Ferguson Metalshaping & Kustom Paint (618) 544-2972 www.metalmeet.com |
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#5
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re: forming metal
I live about 15 miles from the mississippi , I looked on mapquest and robinson is about 5 hrs away from here, otherwise I would probably come to your shop. I was wondering if it would work if i heated the metal and then formed it.....i have a blowtorch so i could try heating it up with that. Any other suggestions let me know
thanks all |
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#6
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re: forming metal
Hi Ben,
Don't use heat, you don't need it. Heat causes metal to shrink, which is what causes warpage when welding. The only area you worry with though is the heat affected zone, which is the blued area around the weld. Normally working just the weld seam itself will suffice, but first, let's get that panel made, before we worry with seling it in. Heat will cause the new panel to warp, so don't ue heat when shaping sheetmetal parts. A picture would be a huge advantage to us all. Also, what tols do you have available to you. Any friends around you that does body work or light fabrication? What town are you in or near, I may know someone in your area that could give you some pointers. Randy |
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#7
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re: forming metal
Randy:
I just moved here probably about 6 months ago so i dont really know many people around here, especially any that do fab. or bodywork. I dont have a scanner or digital camera so it would be hard for me to post a picture. I have body hammers, some dollys and a vice and some sheetmetal cutters, thats about it, along with all the basic handtools. I live about 15 minutes from the quad-cities area (moline, rock island, davenport, bettendorf). thanks for your help Ben |
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#8
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EastWood
Eastwood sells an object called an English Wheel. It is made for curving metal. Not cheap. So, you should be able to go to a sheet metal shop and have them curve it for you. Not sure what the patch area looks like that you are trying to replace. Also, like Randy, most shops will let you roll it there or will do it for you.
hr41pearl |
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#9
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re: forming metal
Hi Ben,
I know a guy up your way that may be willing to help. I'll ask him if he has time or would be interested. Randy |
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#10
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re: forming metal
Randy: Ok thanks a lot, I really appreciate you taking the time to help me out!
Thom: I was thinking about buying a wheel, i havent looked at eastwood's but ive seen other english wheels elsewhere and they are a little pricey at $1200 I just bought a sheet metal handbook by ron fournier i thought that would be of some help, ive heard some people recommend it to me. Thanks for your time everyone Ben |
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#11
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re: forming metal
Hey guys,
One of the best english wheels on the market are those being built by Kerry Pinkerton. His wheels are high quality and are the most versitile available. He explains this very well on his website. http://www.imperialwheelingmachines.com/ Randy Ferguson Metalshaping & Kustom Paint www.metalmeet.com |
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#12
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re: forming metal
I'd love to build my own rod, but don't have a wheel, and the time right now. I have to finish up my '76 trans am before i head of to college and when i go to college the money of course is going to be tight so that will be further down the road
Ben |
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#13
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re: forming metal
zip,
if you could set aside a day and head to Randys' shop, I guarantee it would be worth your time. Another option is simply buying pre-shaped parts that are probably available for that car. I recently started visiting a master metal-shaper on the weekends. He lives about 2 hours away from me, so it's 4 hours of driving on a Saturday...it's well worth the drive though. Trying to learn shaping solely through books, or just by asking questions on the internet is a hard road to travel. |
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#14
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re: forming metal
I've gotten the piece to curve half way decent, but can you shape a piece of metal with a hammer and dolly? I don't hit the metal hard just kind of tap away for a while and it seemed to get the curve i want with denting the metal
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#15
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re: forming metal
Hi Ben,
Think of the hammer and dolly as a stamping die. You can do anything you want with them, but you have to remember that instead of one big 'blam', and there's your part, it's done in many small increments. The hammer and dolly works just as a planishing hammer, power hammer, or even an english wheel. All methods stretch the metal, causing it to take on a compound curve. Once you have the basic shape you want, you can further refine the shape by using a slapper and dolly. A slapper can be made using an old leaf spring. The contact area is larger than a hammer, so you will end up with a smoother panel. If you choose to take the time to work out all the small lumps, you will not need any filler. This can be done with basic hand tools, and virtually no expence. You don't need a bunch of high priced tools to make perfect panels. It just takes a little more time, that's all. Randy Ferguson Metalshaping & Kustom Paint www.metalmeet.com |