[cobalt327]

Originally Posted by candy63impala

I'm gonna look at the slots and try and get a better idea of what your talking about

You can't miss them.

Here's a photo of a core that shows one:

[candy63impala]

After talking with the guy At the speed shop he showed me what they are
he said the front was opened to far I guess I have it idled up to high
back looked ok I guess
I put a new kit in it and will try it when I get home
got some new plugs too
now you have some more directions a far as doin the distributor . As far as locking out the advance

[candy63impala]

is this what you mean by locking it in advance?
turn it clockwise and lock it that way with 2 zip tyes?

[F-BIRD'88]

I never thought of doing it that way. Not sure if they will stay on like that.

I wrap them around as in my pic. (red) You can also drill a hole thru the top of the mechanism and install a sheet metal screw to lock it.

750 carb jetting sould be 70-72 primary and 80-85sec or a #21 metering plate.

If you "jetted it down" in an attempt to fix it, replace the jets with the correct ones. there was nothing wrong with the jetting. You cannot fix a rich idle by playing with the main jetting. The "rich" idle was caused by the incorrect throttle blade opening position at idle, incorrect power valve and incorrect idle spark timing.

3.5 or 4.5 power valve, both thorottle/ transfer slots exposure set
1 to 1.5 turns on the mixture screws 34-36deg timing and fire it up.

You will want to install a ignition power interupt switch on the HEI 12v power feed wire to aid in easy hot engine re-starting with the locked spark timing. SPST 15Amp rated.

MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE FACTORY oem STARTER BRACE/SUPPORT BRACKET INSTALLED ON THE BACK OF THE STARTER MOTOR. TWO STARTER BOLTS ALONE ARE NOT ENOUGH.

IF YOUR'S IS MISSING DO NOT START UNTIL YOU GET ONE AND INSTALL IT.

[J. E. Allison]

I love this thread, you guys are going to get this guy through this, I just know it! I have been around a wrench here and there and I don't know what the hell you guys are doing but it must be right! Love the pics! Oh when this thing runs can we get a video?

[J. E. Allison]

A new condenser might help!

[cobalt327]

Originally Posted by J. E. Allison

A new condenser might help!

In this particular case, what looks just like a condenser is actually a noise suppressor. It cuts way down on the radio interference coming from the distributor.

This type of suppressor was used on points-type systems, too- usually connected to the coil "-" terminal. A true 'condenser' is found on the older points-type ignitions that were phased out in the 70's when the electronic ignitions came along- like the HEI (what the one pictured is).

[candy63impala]

Originally Posted by J. E. Allison

I love this thread, you guys are going to get this guy through this, I just know it! I have been around a wrench here and there and I don't know what the hell you guys are doing but it must be right! Love the pics! Oh when this thing runs can we get a video?

heck i machine and rebuild engines for a living and all this is new to me!!

can i get some more info now on the vaccuum advance?
i took it off and gonna try and mod it like the above pic. and how do i lock it in at the right degree,? also i have a mini starter and dont have a bracket. and what is the power interupt and can i make one or so i need to buy it somewhere and hows it hook up.

[candy63impala]

i just looked at teh pic again.so i need to make a plate that looks like that just to limit the movement of the advance then? and then how do i know if its advanced to far or not enuff?

[candy63impala]

Originally Posted by J. E. Allison

A new condenser might help!

whats that for

[cobalt327]

------------

[F-BIRD'88]

Originally Posted by candy63impala

i just looked at teh pic again.so i need to make a plate that looks like that just to limit the movement of the advance then? and then how do i know if its advanced to far or not enuff?

The OEM AC delco vac can is supposed to have a vac number stamped on it. remove flip it over and look for the stamp number.
If its 10 or 12 leave it alone. If its 20 you want to limit half the travel with the limiter plate. Make the limit plate so you can adjust it to get the thing right.

You can use a $50-$70 mechanics hand vacuum pump /brake system bleeder pump tool to add vacuum while watching the timing light or rev the motor up and watch the manifold vacuum gauge and timing light.

When you are steady speed cruising down the hiway at 60-75mph (manifold vacuum gauge will read high) you want about 10+/-deg of vacuum advance at part throttle hiway cruise. 20 is way too much. thats why you limit it. You can use ported or full vacuum on the carb. your choice.

The spark interrupt switch goes on/under the dash where you won;t kick it while driving and is wired into the big (red/pink coloured) HEI 12V+ power wire
15AMP rated SPST switch. Any good auto parts store will have one.

[candy63impala]

mine has ar-23 stamped on it

[candy63impala]

i dont have a vaccuum gauge either

[F-BIRD'88]

Originally Posted by candy63impala

i dont have a vaccuum gauge either

When you go to the auto parts store to get the 15A SPST switch and wire buy a manifold vacuum/fuel pressure test gauge. $10 -$15.

Some people use a normally closed "NC" momentary push button. Some use a switch to interupt the spark power. Find one rated 10amp minimum 15AMP perfered "15A 125-250Volt" rated.