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Old 06-11-2011, 07:12 PM
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Frame (Blasted then ???

I am getting my frame sand blasted and I won't paint it right away, BUT my question is I was thinking after it's blasted and if I wait for it to start to rust a little then I can use POR 15 because the POR 15 works alot better with rust then a clean surface! But I am open for suggestions and I can prime right away if need be! If I get talked out of Por 15, let me know the proper steps and paint to use then Thanks, Dana

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Old 06-11-2011, 08:34 PM
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What I did on my frame was blast, two wet coats of epoxy, and after that I used ppg concept SS black. No issues. Epoxy primer is far superior to POR 15.
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Old 06-11-2011, 11:13 PM
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save the money your going to spend on the POR crap and get some epoxy on that bare steel as soon as possible! Then topcoat with some black ss urethane or eastwood's 2k chassis black for looks and durability.

don't blast until you have epoxy on hand. It will save you a lot of trouble.
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Old 06-11-2011, 11:27 PM
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I totally agree don't bother with por i stopped using that crap a while ago its a waste of money. Use epoxy then top coat it.
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Old 06-12-2011, 01:21 AM
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epoxy over clean metal will last FAR longer then anything rusty that got coated in any of the rust converters.

Theres a 1985 thunderbird out in the driveway that proves this point clear as day ...
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Old 06-12-2011, 01:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by panelwagon62
What I did on my frame was blast, two wet coats of epoxy, and after that I used ppg concept SS black. No issues. Epoxy primer is far superior to POR 15.
Here here! Wet on wet, no need to sand the epoxy THIS is the only way to go if you ask me.

Brian
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Old 06-12-2011, 07:39 AM
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I do have a gal of epoxy primer from Summit that I always use but I had some POR 15 also, I am convinced now to forget about P-15. Will chassis black from any company work with my epoxy primer from Summit? I know how u guys always want to stay with the same brands all the way thru? Advise, TIA, Dana
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Old 06-12-2011, 08:50 AM
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Realistically, but you want to read the tech sheets for the epoxy and first off be sure it really is an epoxy! Unless it specifically uses the word EPOXY in it's name or description you never know, often these names are tossed around like they mean something. I have a few "pros" I work with that will call a primer an epoxy when it's a urethane, they don't even have a grasp on how important it is to follow tech sheets and understand them!

The bad thing about mixing brands that you aren't SURE you can (few brands are going to give you any advice on using another brand with it!) mix them.

Mixing apples and apples are usually ok, spraying one epoxy that is designed for spraying the companies urethane SS paint over it is going to work with all companies Urethane SS paints.....in theory.

I do know that sand blasting and repainting a frame after the car is put together isn't something you want to do. So buying new epoxy that you KNOW will work well with the SS paint you plan on using seems like good money spent to me.

After years of working around this stuff you would hear me say how one will work as another will and there isn't THAT big of a difference in one apple to another. I will not be so quick to say that again after I was given some Medallion Rubber seal clear to shoot the front end of my wifes mini van a couple of years ago. This clear failed like it was friggin chalk in a year. I will NOT be taking any more unproven products for free or otherwise ever again, it isn't worth it!

Brian
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Old 06-12-2011, 09:00 AM
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I would have to agree with the epoxy. I restored a 57 chevy truck about 15yrs ago frame was blasted and then 3 coats of DP90. that's it nothing else. holds up very well.
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