HI EVERYBODY!!! I am new to hot rodding in this fashion, but a veteran hot rodder and fabricator(bikes, race cars, race mowers, etc...). I just picked up a 1932 Ford pickup cab, doors, Knox bed, and hood top yesterday. Kicking around frame options. I was thinking about a Ranger frame because of the modern brakes, steering, etc...as well as the twin I-beam axle wouldn't look too hideous(especially if I shorten the towers and run coil overs. I have also found while researching that an early 90s model Toyota frame may be a better choice due to the torsion bar setup and a flatter frame, as well as the fact that the frame is fully boxed for strength. I built a 91 Toyota a few years ago with a hot little 377 sbc that worked very well. I am going to run a 312 Interceptor Y-Block engine and likely zoomies. Any input from folks that have already pulled their hair out over frame options is appreciated! Bear in mind that this is a LOOOOW BUCK project...at least for the time being. Thanx in advance!
I favor the Dakota frame - Rack and pinion - disk brakes - boxed front half - not a lot of kick up in the bed area and lots of them around - cheap - I have a front section set aside for my next project - pre 95 hats are 5 lug ford bolt pattern - just a thought - jaxx
Agree with Jaxx22, I also like the Dakota. '91 to '96 used a 318 "A" Mopar motor, so anything "A" will bolt in, even a stroker 408 made from a 360. Here's some stuff I wrote a couple of years ago.... http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Frame_Swap
If you are going to run fenderless and without the stock running boards, any newer frame is going to look completely awful showing down the full length of the side, and the ugly front suspension. ain:
By the time and $$$ you spend to modify a modern frame to fit and add coil-overs, you could have built a more correct looking rectangle tube frame to fit and use a proper and better looking I-beam or tube axle up front, and then just pick a rear axle to swap in from a Ranger or Dakota, or whatever.
By the time and dollars spent and you get done modifying everything to kinda-almost-maybe fit, you could have bought a Speedway or other manufacturer's perimeter '32 frame, bolted the body and original style parts on instead of cobbing everything to kinda-almost work that looks to your friends and others like you really didn't have a plan. Think Rube Goldberg claptrap (Rube Goldberg : Home of the Official Rube Goldberg Machine Contests)
This is what I was thinking of when I suggested building a new rectangle tube frame, the HAMB link, just couldn't remember where I saw it.
You could also consider a double round tube frame with diagonal braces, like the original DragMaster brand short wheelbase Dragster and Altered frames they did. Gives a cool late 50's-early 60's vibe..
Some of you fellows don't take into consideration that maybe the OP is interested in handling and performance, rather than putting up with a straight axle front end. Not every deuce needs an original frame under it just because it's a deuce.
You are 100% correct but choosing an abused donor pickup truck frame (salvage yard) with all its warts and kinks is not the way to success or for even something that doesn't look cobbled up.
A '32 NEEDS a '32 chassis....PERIOD!!!! anything else is will look like chit and this guy will get laughed out of every car show or rod run he goes to. You can make a '32 chassis handle decent hp with modern suspension and disc brakes.
I am building this truck for me. I have no care for what purists at car shows think about what I have done. They Toyota chassis is very close to the stock dimensions and has torsion bar IFS with small components so it will not look hideous. The chassis holds a V8 perfectly and comes with a fairly stout 3.60:1 geared floating rear diff that is almost an exact mini-9". I don't want a straight axle unless you want to buy me a chrome one..??? any takers???...lol! As I stated, this is a low-buck project. Maybe later on in it's life it could get a more nostalgic frame, but for now I am seeking affordable functionality. After comparing the specs I have decided on the Toyota frame. I just wanna build an old rat truck. I would love to do a tasteful old hot-rod semi-resto job, but just don't have the means at this moment. You all know that these things are NEVER finished.
looks like for a new guy , you have a good understanding of what you are looking for in your project - good for you - I do a lot of thing that don't fit into other peoples boxes myself , but they are my ideas so I try some things just to see if they will work the way I see them - some do - some don't - like you said these things are never really finished anyway - keep use posted - jaxx
The thing is, often the money is simply spent on different things, it's not more or less, it's just different. Often, "saving money" isn't saving at all. To save money by not putting a blower on the motor makes sense. But to "save money" by putting a particular motor because the other one costs more is often simply misguided spending money on a "different" motor is all that is accomplished.
Build what you want to build and you will find a way. If that is a late model frame, then do it, if it's a more classic build, than do it. It's often the same amount of money (or close to it) but simply spent on different things.
And besides, if you are out to save money, I would say find a different hobby.
There is a local 20's 30 pickup on a mini truck frame, it works, a few years ago I scrapped a mazda PU frame I was thinking of using. But I am going to use a 32 frame under my 32 glass roadster bodyIf I live long enough. mixing old bodies on other frames. Ok for me If it isn't a 32, and we might go up the canyon and try to find another body or 2 to use
I really don't have a problem with a custom frame - but what I said above about trying to adapt a late model pu frame - is just not right along with the work involved. A rectangular tube frame fitted around the body with a well thought out set of underpinnings WILL work.
And as far as your statement about caring what others thought - about the first time you hear someone say "What a cobbled up POS that car is", your opinion will probably change. You may say I'm wrong, but I've seen way too many either sitting in a row with other cobbled cars in a swap meet or people passing them by at shows or cruises to look at the nicely thought out and done cars.
Rat rods can be a great way to go, but so many are not worth my 'entertainment' time nor any one elses to spend looking at poor workmanship or a poorly thought out scheme of components. Low cost and hot rods are no longer in the same context regardless of whatever way you go.
But with all that said, it IS your choice on how you want to build YOUR car, not our opinions that count in the end.
Another vote here for a period correct frame style, Model A or Model B, and a straight axle front end.
If you do your homework, and you don't want chrome or stainless, they are not that expensive. As already stated, Speedway Motors is the first place to start looking for economical straight axle front ends.
Can't wait to post pictures of my "Cobbled up old pickup"...!!! BY the way, I am buying this cab,doors,splash pans,hood top and one side and an old KNOX BOX for $600.00, so the no cheap hot rod theory is shot to hell...lol. I already have my engine and the frame will be around $500.00. Not a bad start in my opinion. Thanks to the imaginative folks responses. I want this truck to drive, steer and stop well as I plan on running the living hell out of it, not sitting in a lawn chair next to it. It will likely see some strip duty as well.
You can drive a straight axle car with drum brakes every day, you can drive the hell out of it, it's up to you. This is why I toss out my opinion on the subject. Of course you can build it as you want. But the misperception that if it's going to be "driven on modern hiways" it needs a modern chassis and drive train is simply wrong, it's a twisted image that people often have in their heads.
I drive a stone stock 1959 car every single day that has a three on the tree, tiny little drum brakes with about an inch and a half wide shoes. They don't even have self adjusters! It has a single reservoir master (oh the horrors) with an archaic trunion suspension. I drive it every single day, yep every day on the "modern highways" without a hitch.
It's all in what you want, if you have never driven one of these cars, a nice I beam front end little '32 Ford can be a sweet driving car.
You can get plenty of help in doing your "frame swap", don't sweat it, others opinions are to be used as guidance. Either to reinforce what you have planned, or to change your mind and go another direction, it's only opinion, use it.
Around here a lot of old cars and trucks were used to make Hay wagons, or trailers. I have found some real deals, a couple of my grand kids want to put something together. and there is a 20's chevy "Hay Wagon" I can get for free, just have to take all the junk stacked on it.
Now that is cool!! Grab that baby and build a hot rod! The cool thing is you can always re-build them later on if you get tired of what you have done because there isn't really that much to them. Going to scope out frames today and see if he has a feasible option as far as as Y-Block transmission.I also found a guy in St Louis that has a model T frame(by the looks of it) with either a 9" or an 8" Ford rear end and an old I-beam axle with wire rims for $200.00! May be all over that, waiting on better pictures.
Measured a 2000 Toyota Tacoma frame that's under a rollover truck in otherwise good shape. Will fit nice I think. Good flat boxed frame. Also thinking of a 454 vs the 312. Not saying you can't drive around on old suspension. You ever try to stop or steer that old chassis 100 mph?...
Yes..... straight and true, stops and steers great :thumbup:
Don't use performance as the reason for using a Toyota truck frame under your classic Ford. Henry's geometry has been tweeked for decades and the end result when done properly is a truly great performing Hot Rod that looks good too.
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