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Old 02-13-2009, 06:08 PM
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Frame Question?

Hi, I starting my build but unsure of what size steel to use 2x3 or 2x4 , by 3/16" thick I have room for either does it matter?

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Old 02-13-2009, 06:19 PM
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It depends on what type of frame you are building.Tell us a little more of what you are doing.
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Old 02-13-2009, 07:31 PM
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re:question

well it is going to be modeled after wescott's drawing on their site for the 1926 model-t with the rear of the frame similar to your's for a mini tub plus it wil also be sporting a BBC.
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Old 02-13-2009, 07:57 PM
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On there web site they show a good lay out of the frame.All you have to do is narrow the back half.They use a 2''x3'' You can go with 2''x3''x3/16. It will give you a good frame for a big block.Plus being the car will only be around 2400 lb. The frame will have a little weight to it. When I built my frame for my 32..I went with the 2''x3''x3/16'' tubing.That car would pull the front end up.Good luck with your build.Anything I can do to help you just let me know.



Here's the page I was taking about...

http://www.wescottsauto.com/WebCatalog/FR-1.pdf
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Old 02-14-2009, 06:06 AM
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Thanks I will take you up on that.
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Old 02-14-2009, 09:20 PM
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frame

sounds like new int knows what hes talking about.cool project keep us posted
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Old 02-15-2009, 02:26 AM
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I built a T-Bucket three years ago using 2"x3" 3/16th wall rectangular tube. It was very stout. Should work perfect for a BBC. In hind sight, I would use 2x3 1/8 inch tube for a small amount of flex for hard launches. The 3/16 is a bit of overkill in a small light vehicle, however one good aspect to using the 3/16 rect tube is that the thicker the tube material is, the more edge radius the corners have which is very aesthetically appealing when painted.
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Old 02-15-2009, 04:32 AM
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I have another question , I'm going to use a 32 ford front cross member in stead of building a new one or useing the old stock one from the model-t frame question is would any of you taper the frame so the cross member will set flush and over the frame rail or would you just narrow it and lower it in the frame rails? before any one anserws take a look at a stock 26-27 model-t so you know where I'm going in a stock frame the cross member sits lower than the frame.
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Old 02-15-2009, 08:11 AM
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frame

sounds like good advice to me,the first rod i built ,a 32 p/u had a 350 with six two barrels it was my friends car he took me for a ride when we finished it so fast it scared the living crap out of me,you guys putin bb in them are crazy hard core.there so light
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Old 02-15-2009, 08:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Studebaker
The 3/16 is a bit of overkill in a small light vehicle, however one good aspect to using the 3/16 rect tube is that the thicker the tube material is, the more edge radius the corners have which is very aesthetically appealing when painted.
It is really not over kill,Being the car will be so light.You will be glad you went with the 3/16'' tubing.You want a little weight under that kind of car.It will ride much better.And as for the end's of the tubing being Aesthetically appealing when painted.I ALWAYS cap off the ends of my tubing.Then no one will know if its 3/16 or 1/8...But that how I build my cars..
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Old 02-15-2009, 08:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigBlockT
I have another question , I'm going to use a 32 ford front cross member in stead of building a new one or useing the old stock one from the model-t frame question is would any of you taper the frame so the cross member will set flush and over the frame rail or would you just narrow it and lower it in the frame rails? before any one anserws take a look at a stock 26-27 model-t so you know where I'm going in a stock frame the cross member sits lower than the frame.
If you going to build it more like the 32 frame I would say put it inside the frame rails.As low as you can.Will you be putting a straight axle like the 32? Take a look at speedydeedy project journal how he's doing his frame.It's out of tubing.

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/jour...29&action=view
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Old 02-15-2009, 08:34 AM
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safty

thats right better safe than sorry,God forbid you get in an accident dont forget a collapsable steering colume for dat beast,safty first always
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Old 02-15-2009, 09:46 AM
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I want the car to look as close to stock as possible, my radiator shroud or grill shell mounts to the top of the frame where the 32 mounts to the cross member that is why I'm asking for advice on the cross member position I was wandering if I tapper the frame from 3" down to 1 1/2" or 2" what ever the cross member is which by the way has not arrived yet , and notch out the back corner of the cross member and slide it over the frame will this creat a weak spot in the frame by tappering it? by the way this will be a full fendered car with a stock model-t grill shell.
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Old 02-15-2009, 01:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigBlockT
I want the car to look as close to stock as possible, my radiator shroud or grill shell mounts to the top of the frame where the 32 mounts to the cross member that is why I'm asking for advice on the cross member position I was wandering if I tapper the frame from 3" down to 1 1/2" or 2" what ever the cross member is which by the way has not arrived yet , and notch out the back corner of the cross member and slide it over the frame will this creat a weak spot in the frame by tappering it? by the way this will be a full fendered car with a stock model-t grill shell.

It won't look to stock with a big bock in it.You sure can't hide it. Is this on the lines of what you want to build. Are you planning on a straight axle,Or a-arms on front?
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Old 02-15-2009, 06:34 PM
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yes a straight axle up front with a 4" drop , my car will look close to my avatar I use and yes it will be hard to hide the BBC I will worry about that another day.
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