Hot Rod Forum banner

Frame swap

19K views 45 replies 23 participants last post by  oldschooler58 
#1 ·
What is the newest model frame that I can use to replace the one on my 1958 Chevy 1/2 ton stepside? I want all the bells and whistles like power and air. What alterations will I have to make?
 
#2 ·
:(

The best frame for a 1958 Chevrolet 1/2 ton is the frame that came under it.

If is far easier to add good suspension and the options you desire than to change frames and try to have everything fit and function as they should. :rolleyes:

Sorry to be the bearer of sad news but that's the TRUTH..... :D :D


.
 
#3 ·
I guess I'll run against the grain, I'd measure the wheelbase and if one's close make some new body mounts and mount it up. I think it's as easy to do that as all the suspension swapping and other mods, then you have a one source parts search if anything should fail,instead of a list of what came off what.
 
#5 ·
I'd have to agree with Woodz on that. A pick-up is pretty straight forward. As long as the wheel base is the same, mounting should be the main problem. I wouldn't consider that major, compared to what you would have to go thru going the other way.
 
#6 ·
duceroadster and tomsilk. I already knew that but I was trying to think outside the box.

woods428 and adtkart. That is exactly why I asked the question. I wanted to skip a few steps and end up with something I could buy replacement parts for and save some work and money.
 
#7 ·
hey, YOU'RE the one who asked what would fit.
ya DIDN'T ask what would fit with work....

ya want power?
power what?
windows?
brakes?
seat?
horse?

none of the above have anything to do with a frame swap.....

how low or high do ya want it?
myself, i have a 58 that i'm gonna clip (assuming somebody else doesn't want it worse than i do) with a 76 seville subframe.
about the only thing that'll give me over stock is pwr steering and IFS.

just for the record,if ya whack off the frt part of a full frame caprice, they fit pretty well also.
use a wagon and get bigger brakes (and a 5"wheel pattern)

also. i can't think of 1 full-size PU that is narrow enough to use and not look goofy.

i guess what i'm saying is, tell us what you have in mind and maybe you'll get some help you can use..
 
#8 ·
tomslik, I am new at this forum stuff so bear with me. This conversion may not be major but I have limited knowledge and experience so I am looking for some help. I want power disc brakes, IFS and I was hopeing to find a late model with air cond., and v/8 engine. I envisioned finding something where I could use all the components from the donor and use only the body from the 58 truck. I would like to lower it, yes, enough to be practical as a driver. I do not want a show car, just a driver that rides smooth, is dependable, stock V/8 for the sound and dependability. This is oversimplifying the project but maybe this gives you a better idea of what I want to achieve.I want sort of a new old car with the minimum labor and get most of my parts from 1 donor vehicle. Thanks for all the help.
 
#9 ·
i'll be glad to help if i can.

are you going to use this as a truck?

or just maybe some light hauling?

it'll make a difference....

as far as the a/c goes,don't mess with anything other than an R-134 system.
it ain't worth the effort.

[ April 27, 2003: Message edited by: tomslik ]</p>
 
#10 ·
tomslick,re:58 Chevy
I may do some light hauling but the truck will be a toy. I have other vehicles to haul stuff and do serious travel. The truck will not have a particular purpose except to cruise around southern Illinois. I am not witholding information, just having a problem putting my vision into words for you. I thought that of all the people who tune into "Hotrodders"; someone must have acquired the measurements on a late model vehicle that might be real close to the correct dimensions for my truck. I agree on the air conditioning comment. That is a luxury I would like but good late model suspension, engine, transmission are more important to me.
 
#11 ·
well, as i said before, i can't think of a late model truck narrow enough(track width) besides a S-10 and then THEY might be a little TOO narrow.

as long as we've been talking about this, i coulda had mine subframed by now ;)


ya know, now that i think about it, i wonder if a 2wd trailblazer would work......

haven't ever seen a 2wd but i suppose they make 'em..
 
#12 ·
If you're not going to do any heavy hauling your best bet would be a Mustang II IFS (with strut rods) and big GM 11" disks. You can easily add replacement rear springs and shocks, and a bolt in crossmember with SBC mounts (you may not need this since I believe the '58 models came with small blocks as well as the 6). You could also add a bolt in transmission mount.

Results = good ride, power disk brakes, rack & pinion power steering, bolt in small block Chevy and TH-350/400 auto. No hassles trying to mount your cab on a strange frame and no fabrication required to hang the front end sheet metal.

Hack it up if you want to but this is by far the easiest way to go.

Centerline
<a href="http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com" target="_blank">http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com</a>

[ April 28, 2003: Message edited by: Centerline ]</p>
 
#13 ·
I've done both and still would go with the frame swap if the measurements work out. Use the whole power train and if it was an A/c'd truck then all you need to do is install the cab a/c stuff. The amount of work overall is going to be far less, and once again it would be all one source parts. I'm making mounts for an early Chevy truck on an S/10 frame now for a guy who's doing the swap, he did all the measurements and gave me the drawings for the body mounts on the frame and will do most himself. He's not a car builder, just a car guy, actually he's the concrete guy that poured my new shop floor.
 
#14 ·
centerline-- thanks for the idea.
woodz428-- this is exactly what I had in mind. Where can I get the complete information?
tomslik--You are correct, I am taking up the whole bulletin board with my problem. My line of thinking was; a little typing was easier than blindly going ahead with something I know very little about. Thanks for all the help from everyone.
Trader
 
#16 ·
I mounted my '56 Burb on a '00 GMC rolling chassis with Vortec engine and transmission.
I fabricated body mounts and moved the rear end springs mounts 3" forward. Fits like a glove. I used the GMC's brake pedel, master cylinder, gas pedal, steering column and wiring harness. The only thing I'm using on the Burb is the body, the rest if from the GMC. BTW I plan to tow my 22ft Airstream with it.



[ April 28, 2003: Message edited by: Seon ]</p>
 
#17 ·
Thanks seon, now this is the kind of information I can use. My 58 truck is the same color as your burb. I can't tell by the photo angle but do the tires stick out past the fenders? If so, how do you plan to remedy this? Will you keep it at stock height or lower it?

Anyone else have an idea?
 
#18 ·
Once I get it all together and iron the bugs out I plan on installing air bags to get it down low. The track is real tight and the tires may rub against the rear fender wells, but I plan to change rims with more of an offset. Worst case is that I'll narrow the rear end or have the fenders "expanded". But it'll be down lower. Not the best pic but it'll give you an idea of how it looks from the rear. By the time I get her on the road, I'll have the best of both world, late model technology with a classic look. ;)

 
#19 ·
Originally posted by Trader:
<strong>tomslik, I am new at this forum stuff so bear with me. This conversion may not be major but I have limited knowledge and experience so I am looking for some help. Thanks for all the help.</strong><hr></blockquote>

I HAVE LIMITED KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE :eek: :eek:

This is a major job, not for the faint of heart and the inexperienced.

Wake up, smell the roses and come up with another plan before you have two piles in your shop. One ...the 58 and two ..whatever you were trying to put under it.

This can be done. By your asking....tells me you do not know how and most likely will spend money and time to end up with a unfinished project you will hate.

This is NOT mean spirited or hateful. Just the truth. Many of the more hands on experienced members will tell you that they would have trouble remembering all the aborted "projects" they have seen and or looked at......and then bought it for parts. I worked in a salvage yard for years and have seen this played many times over.

IF you must proceed.......but do so with a more open look......

GOOD LUCK ! !
 
#20 ·
Trader, keep asking your questions and we here will answer the best we can. Changing frames on your '58 truck is certainly do-able. As a matter of fact, I mounted a '57 GMC on a '77 dually one ton chassis and bed, using it for my "Home Depot" runs. I've also "clipped" a panel frame that was my daily driver for some 12 years. But as Deuce Roadster mentioned, there are guys out there that starts projects but never finished because lack of knowledge, tools, time, garage space and/or money. But that's what makes this hobby interesting...one could start from a "vision" or buy someone elses unfinished project. All comes out in the wash. ;)
 
#21 ·
seon andwoodz428-I have the time, I'm retired and I have some friends that will help as soon as I decide what to do with this truck. If we start it, it WILL be finished. I knew there were several cars and trucks out there that would work, but rather than chase them down and measure them all I just thought someone had tried a similar swith and would save me some time.
trader
 
#22 ·
:D

Trader....

I was not trying to discourage you nor hinder you from your dream. Your dream can be done but it will take money, time, a place , tools and a lot of determination.



I took this 55 Chevrolet off it's frame and put it on another 55 Chevrolet frame (nonrusted) over 25 years ago. Just putting it back on the stock frame is not for a novice IF you want everything to fit. Fenders, doors and all of that have to be fitted back (keep in mind it was a stock but different frame).



I started with a stock original 1932 Ford frame and no body pieces and found every piece (original 32 Ford sheet metal) for this car. It was all made it all fit.

I am a hands on Rodder. Not a drugstore magazine reading mechanic. I made my living at a GM dealership years ago. I was a line service tech.

I suggest going to a few shows.....preferably truck shows.... and looking at some finished trucks (55-59) like yours. See what others have done and HOW IT TURNED OUT. See what they used and why. Narrowing a rear axle to keep the tires from rubbing is not a problem but narrowing the front IS.

IF you can cut, weld good enough to trust your life on it and fabricate..... and one of your friends is a body man to align all the pieces.........you might make it.

I truly HOPE SO.

Deuce Roadster.


.
 
#23 ·
Trader - some very good advice above. Measurements are important, as you already know but don't get too stuck on them. A couple of inches too long in a wheelbase is easy to fix. A couple of inches too narrow or wide in track width may be fixable with offset rims.

I did a '52 with an S-10 4x4 chassis. Still working on it actually, but real life is getting in the way. :) I changed wheelbase and track width on my project enough to make it work.

I was really concerned about my project becoming "two piles of junk." This is a common problem, especially with people new to this kind of work who tend to bite off more then we can chew. I'm not much of a quitter, in fact I'm belligerent enough to finish something when I should have dropped it long ago.

The best advice I can give you is to keep your vehicle mobile as much as possible. This isn't the way a lot of people do things and creates a little more work in the long run. On the other hand, you don't have an immovable heap in the garage that discourages you every time you look at it. Just get it driveable as quick as you can. From the day I started stripping the donor to the day I was driving it (street legal!) was 2 months, 8 days. You don't need it street legal if you're just moving it around your garage.

Initial issues you're likely to run into are: repositioning frame mounts, frame-to-floorboard clearances, front sheetmetal/radiator/bumper mounts. Solve those, and you're laughing. Kinda. :D
 
#25 ·
OK now I see that there was a page 2 to this post and everything I wrote down has been discussed...
so.....nevermind. Below is some scribble.....

Hey Trader, I'm looking to do exactly the same thing. This is what I've found and I would appreciate any feed back. The late model frame's I've researched have been focused after '96 to take into account the "better" Vortec engines and OBDII, then more specifically after '97 to benefit from the reprogrammed automatic transmission for better efficiency. The model pickup I have found to be the closest match is a Reg Cab, Short Bed, 4x4. It measures: WB 117.5", Width 76.4", O/A Length 199.1"
A shortbed frame like ours measures: WB 114", Width 67", O/A Length 193"
It has to be a pickup, even though the Tahoe has the same wheelbase, because the pickup frame bends differently.
To remedy the difference in WB, I have researched having custom leaf springs in the rear made with the positioning dowel moved forward aprox. 3". The cost for this service I have found to be no more than $500 for all springs involved.
As for the width, Tomslik is right the s-10 has a 65" width (too narrow) and the late model width seem wider. I have found conflicting numbers in some truck books however that state the overall width of our trucks as 77" and the wheel width as 67". So can any one verify the actual body width of our trucks in the front? Was there a 5" gap on either side of our stock skinny wheels from the factory?
I don't have a frame anymore and all other body parts other than my Suburban shell are in storage.
Again, keep us up to date on what you find out.
Daren.....

[ May 02, 2003: Message edited by: 57burbn ]</p>
 
#26 ·
S10 frames will work good, buld new mounts and use deeper ofset wheels. all the stuff you want is there. if you need parts they are easy to get.it just takes a little work and imagination.
thats what we call hot rodding. good luck and keep us posted. i`ve done several of these and they work good.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top